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wagnerf15

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Everything posted by wagnerf15

  1. wagnerf15
    It's pretty easy really...instructions are specific as well Get the cam off both of the #2 valves, then set the tool on the valve cover studs. You have to move some of the rocker arms to get the alignment right, but it's no big deal. Align the tabs on the tool in the slots on the rocker arms where the eccentric is. Put nuts on evenly watching valve clearance (apparently you can bend them fairly easily if they run together) and keeping the exhausts ahead of the intakes. With a little patience, it's ridiculously easy.
  2. wagnerf15
    Amazing what the right tool does.....just me and my 11 year old (he took pics) and 15 min of my time and, viola, the cam is out with no damage!!!!! It sure cleans up nice too. Off to the machine shop.
  3. wagnerf15
    I suppose factory is the way to go for these parts, but anyone have thoughts or experiences with other products (Ireland, RaceTEP, BavAuto) that might keep me from making a well-known mistake? Clearly saving money is important, but not the most important issue here. I'd really like to build this puppy and have it go for another 200,000 miles before it gets torn down to this stage again..........
  4. wagnerf15
    When i called the Haus, he said they were out of these babies. "No problem, I'll just whip up a few".....and I told him I'd deal with white rather than waiting longer for the black powder coating. What a good guy to deal with, he'll get a LOT more of my business. Looks like I'm a cam-removing machine, without the assistance of my 8 closest friends!
  5. wagnerf15
    I agree with the above. I just finished this mod...so here's what I discovered. The flanges just pull out/push in....that's why the spacer is so important. I took my old half-shaft, changed to a 320i CV for the inner (10mm bolt holes), left the 2002 CV on the outer (8mm bolt holes to mate up with stub axle) and added spacers from Ireland. Oh yeah, it seems obvious now, but you need the longer 10mm bolts for the inner CV to flange so you can reach through the spacer. I also took the time to change out all the gaskets and seals in the old diff to save future oil issues. Here's a pic
  6. wagnerf15
    Beautiful....that's the idea I have with my heinous blue cordouroy recaros. Any trouble finding an experienced upholstery man? I'm just starting to look in the STL area.
  7. wagnerf15
    As a mechanical pump guy, I have no experience, but I thought you needed a return line if you ran an electric pump....if so, you may not want to get rid of those clear and blue lines just yet.
  8. wagnerf15
    Just saw that you're from STL. I'm out in St Charles if you need a hand....I'll be home Saturday PM for the next week. Shoot me an email wagnerf15@sbcglobal.net if you need anything.
  9. wagnerf15
    Same problem, this is what was recommended/worked for me. Drilled small holes in basket and safety-wired it in place. Still a good idea to set the car's weight down slowly to ensure everything settles properly
  10. wagnerf15
    I like it!!!
  11. wagnerf15
    I like it!!!
  12. wagnerf15
    There is no question that, after 7 years, the varnish in that carb will prevent correct fuel/air metering. At a minimum, rebuild that thing and dip the parts to clean up the varnish. While it's soaking, you can do the ignition chores.
  13. wagnerf15
    Are you sure the clutch hydraulics are OK? If that thing isn't bled or leaks, your pedal wouldn't do squat.
  14. wagnerf15
    Interesting......I'm 42 and have had 0 - 1974 2002 tii - got caught sneaking out of my house and dad cancelled the sale....never actually took possession 1 - 1972 240Z 2 - 1971 240Z 3 - 1979 Toyota Celica 4 - 1973 VW Bug 5 - 1971 VW Bug Convertible 6 - 1968 Chevy PU 7 - 1989 Mazda B2200 8 - 1990 Plymouth Grand Voyager (not proud) 9 - 1992 Toyota 4x4 PU 10 - 1992 Ford Explorer 11 - 1985 Mitsubishi PU 12 - 1988 Mazda 626 13 - 1988 Chevy C1500 14 - 1977 Mercedes 280E 15 - 1992 Mazda MPV (not proud...) 16 - 1998 Ford F150 (still have) 17 - 2002 Nissan Quest (again, not proud) 18 - 2004 Ford E350 HUGE van (love that pig!!!! and still have) 19 - 1974 BMW 2002 (current project) 20 - 1996 Nissan Maxima (still have) 21 - 1998 BMW 540i (still have) 22-25 - various motorhomes...all gone WOW, didn't realize how many I've been through. Just to be fair though, as I was moving around the world in the AF, we usually bought when we got to an assignment and sold when we left. I suspect the 74 2002 will be round for a while..... jim
  15. wagnerf15
    I feel like we're having a misunderstanding here....so I'll be real plain. That green fluid, while called antifreeze, is also the coolant liquid for your engine. When you look inside your radiator, you should barely be able to see 2 rows of metal fins because it is so full of antifreeze. Yes, if you are low on fluid, it will have a drastic affect on your car's operating temp. The water pump circulates that throughout the block and head and than back through the radiator to cool before the cycle begins again. When you are below the necessary amount, the "circle of life" can't work effectively. HTH
  16. wagnerf15
    Don't mean to be insulting here, but you did top off the fluid after your leak, right? It always seems to be the easiest thing you miss.
  17. wagnerf15
    I will do it. It'll be a little while, as my block is just now getting worked over and my cam removal tool is in the mail today (looks like the head is the long pole in the tent). Anyway, if you are interested in a LOT of experience/opinion, do a few searches of the forum with keywords like weber 38 or 292 cam and read all the data. I spent the better part of half a day reading everything I could before I made up my mind. Sounds like this setup is VERY driveable (It better be, this baby is gonna be my daily) and with some luck, you can get 125-130hp out of it. We'll see, as I'm gonna dyno the beast before I plug and play. With the 5 speed and 3.91 LSD, I'm looking forward to some illegal driving.......
  18. wagnerf15
    Just got my pistons from IE yesterday....beautiful! Oversized for 90mm bore and 9.5:1, I think they are gonna rock with a 292 cam and my weber 38. Fantastic pieces of machine work...can't wait to use them. It's nice to have an alternative to Maxsil....thanks Jeff.
  19. wagnerf15
    http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/48/32/ Try this link, seems to have about every torque value I need.
  20. wagnerf15
    Much talk throughout forum about the thin-walled 30mm deep well socket to get the 5 speed output flange nut off.....This little baby does it well for $2.99. My inspiration was the thread converting 30mm to 1 3/16". Local tool wholesale place had this oil sender unit socket and I figured it was worth the chance. Viola, cheap tools with no grinding required.
  21. wagnerf15
    To put an exact figure on it, I'd say somewhere between a shitload and a buttload. The beauty of the restore (some might say the purpose of it) is that it never ends once you get the bug. Have fun and spend wisely.
  22. wagnerf15
    This same thing happened to an old Mercedes 280E I had and I pulled out my hair looking for the cause (only hard starts on wet days). Turned out to be a vacuum leak....strange. Anyway, if you have the vacuum advance dizzy, you may want to look for a leak there. Might be a cheap fix. It still makes no sense to me though
  23. wagnerf15
    What kind of LSD? If you're talking about a 320i 3.91 LSD, the book and a lot of previous posts indicate .95 US Quarts. 2 quarts seems like an awful lot.
  24. wagnerf15
    Beautiful machine....thanks for keeping it alive. Hopefully my kids will still have examples that nice around to appreciate.
  25. wagnerf15
    Man, there are some goofy state laws out there. For once, I'm glad to be in Missouri!!!!
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