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satsuma

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Everything posted by satsuma

  1. satsuma
    I agree, unless the engine overheated? you should be able to bung on a new gasket. Unless you strip the other 'unknown' engine down to check it, which along will take more time than fixing the head, you won't know if its really any good. It might be worth getting it and doing it up as a spare, but I would stick with what you know is/was a solid engine. Good Luck
  2. satsuma
    Cheers c.d.iesel. That white turbo sat on the blue carpet is my dream car :/ I was thinking of going for a front turbo (like) spoiler but leaving the wheel arches stock. Thanks Ben
  3. satsuma
    Hi all I'm restoring a 75 tii lux with the twin headlight conversion. I have been looking for images of cars with the twin lights so I can get an idea of how it will look (just a body shell and boxes of bits at the mo). I would be grateful for any pics you might have. Also some shots of the Getrag 240 5 speed overdrive as promised in another thread. Note the remnants of the speedo cable, taken next to a 4 speed for comparison...
  4. satsuma
    that sucks, I'm sorry about your misfortune! In the UK if a insurance company rights off your car you have the option of buying off them for peanuts, I take it that its not the same across the pond? The rear panel looks bad but I'm sure a good body shop can put it right, I bet they could replace the arch with a repair panel and pull the rest out? Good luck I hope it goes your way. Ben
  5. satsuma
    I believe they are original factory option wheels, don't know if they were solely available for tii's, probably not? Here in the UK you might pay $400-$600 for a tidy set of 5. Ben
  6. satsuma
    I'm not familiar with webbers, I found this site its not BMW but it has a lot of info: http://www.tjwakeman.net/TR/WeberDCOEinfo.htm Second paragraph sounds similar? (1/3 way down the page, with diagrams) Ben
  7. satsuma
    I split a shaft just the other day. The nut was solid and a spanner plus hammer didn't touch it, in the end I used a blow lamp to heat the nut then a drift punch and hammer to loosen it. I got it off but the nut wasn't reusable, but then they are only $10 from Jaymic here in the UK. I agree that its best to take the shaft off the car, trying to free the nut while on your back with rust flakes falling into your eyes, ears and nose!! no thanks Ben
  8. satsuma
    I agree that unless you are doing it for any other reason than performance stick with the M10... "The M10 engine is also one of the most successful engines in racing. Starting with the European Touring Car Championship, it was also used in Formula 2, then the Deutsche Rennsport Meisterschaft, where it was turbocharged by Paul Rosche according to FIA Group 5 rules. The M10 block went on to Formula 1, winning the 1983 championship for Nelson Piquet and Brabham — something which very few 20 year old road car engine designs accomplish. The same applies for the rise in power: twenty-fold from 75 hp to about 1500 hp. The BMW S14 engine for the first BMW M3 was based upon the M10 block. In the M3, the M10 is still winning races today."
  9. satsuma
    Well done in finding the leak! I made the mistake once of sending a head off to get the spark plug threads helicoiled (drilled out and threads replaced). They had to strip the head down so not to damage the valves, but when it came back they hadn't put it back together correctly so I took it all apart again. When the sprung load from the tapets was off the camshaft it became clear that the camshaft bearings were very warn, maybe 1mm or 1/32" play?. So I wasted the money on the helicoils and in the end I brought a new engine from BMW which worked out more cost effective when looking at the prices of recon cylinder heads. Point I'm trying to make is that you make sure the head is worth saving
  10. satsuma
    Cris is right, an engine with bad valve clearance can sound dog rough, when they are set properly it should sound crisp and smooth with no metallic slapping noises. Might take a couple of goes to get all 8 valves set well, its easy to get one slightly out as it can be fiddly. Youtube examples: Bad valve clearance (notice the rattle sound, like if you slapped spoons together really fast): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x0f3QOr_Enc As it should sound Ben
  11. satsuma
    Looks fine to me, although it would be an idea to move the HT leads away from the exhaust, the heat can mess them up. There should be metal clamp to retain the leads onto the rocker cover: http://www.jaymic.com/shop/parts_02_products.asp?grp=02ELE (at the bottom of page 1) A tie wrap would work also If you need the info from the workshop manual don't forget to ask. Ben
  12. satsuma
    I forgot the dissy cap, thanks. Distributor cap ($9 ebay 300173919795)
  13. satsuma
    All you need is a workshop manual to set the Tii. The fuel injection system on the Tii is fixed so as long as the linkages are correctly set and they haven't been messed with there isn't much you can do. If you need I can scan in the pages from the manual and send them to you. $70 will go a long way. I would spend it on: New spark plugs (set the gap) ($9 ebay 160182296052) Points/Contact breaker ($5 ebay 300123955533) Rotor Arm ($4 ebay 300175563576) Condenser ($5?) Oil Filter ($5 ebay 200147359241) Oil ($15) Errm $43 plus postage (and you already have the oil). You can probably get the parts at your local auto factors for around the same. Might even squeeze in a new HT lead set? Good luck. Ben P.S. I had my 2002 tuned once by a 'professional' it cost me $100 and it was no better than before he started. After he left I found the problem myself, which was a dirty idle jet.
  14. satsuma
    I've not noticed these two before??
  15. satsuma
    Like others have said I would work out what is wrong before you drive the car any more, you could destroy the gearbox. One thing it might be and is something you can check yourself, if you have a decent jack and blocks or stands to make the car safe. On the output end of the gearbox is the 'flexi coupling' its a black rubber donut sandwiched by two flanges. The coupling wears over time and the heads of the bolts can bash together and make a nasty grinding sound, it starts off occurring when you accelerate hard. Then it will become more prevalent as the coupling degrades more and more. Jack up the car (Make it safe!! and get someone to give you a hand who has some knowledge on doing it properly). Crawl underneath and where the gearbox is look, for the coupling and look at the bolt heads and nuts, see if they are bashed and shinny. I hope it is only this as its a reasonably easy and cheep problem to sort. I was 17 years old when I took on my dads 73 2002 Targa (was the coolest car in the college car park , I'm now 27 and still have the car. I have done all the work on it myself in the last 10 years. Get stuck in and you will learn fast. The Haynes manuals aren't easy to follow and are at best a guide, imo. Good luck Ben
  16. satsuma
    I squeeze the lower and upper rad hoses a few times after filling the coolant, acting like a crude pump it dislodges some of the trapped air. Ben
  17. satsuma
    Thanks for that bit of info Matt.
  18. satsuma
    If it was mine I would check the head with a straight edge plenty of times, if I was 100% sure it was straight I would bung it back on with a fresh gasket. As already posted make sure you mop out any oil in the head bolt holes, else they might hydraulic and not fully tighten. Also follow the tighten sequence for the bolts, I have the torque sequence in a workshop manual if you need it let me know. Also its good to torque the bolts again after the engine has been run. Make sure you are certain the head is straight else next week you will be taking it off again. Ben
  19. satsuma
    Yeah I think Chris might be right with #2, looks like some staining next to the intake valve, might just be the photo or my eyes though If it was leaking coolant maybe it was boiled over by the last owner and the head warped? I would triple check in lots or directions for distortion. Unless you are 100% sure its straight it might be worth getting the head skimmed anyway to be safe. Ben
  20. satsuma
    I have read that they are meant to be a weaker box than the 245, but only on the bimmers web site. What this is based on I don't know, might be a single persons opinion? I would expect the quality of the moving parts would be very similar to the 245, the weight is only a few lbs different. This was on a Opel website "GETRAG 5 SPEED (type 240) With .87:1 fifth gear. One of the finest quality built transmissions in the world." Will get the pics up shortly. Ben
  21. satsuma
    I'm 100% on the speedo as part of the old cable is sticking out. It has a 3 bolt flange similar to the automatic. I will take some pics tomorrow and post them. It was the main reason why I brought the cars off the guy, he told me over the phone that he had a 5 speed box, I assumed it was out of a '02. I drove up to collect (380 miles!!) one of the cars and the gear box, it ended up that it was out of a early 318. I was a very disappointed to say the least but I gave him £50 for it instead of £250 and took a risk. It seems that it wasn't a complete wast of time, I hope! The car, a 75 tii Lux...
  22. satsuma
    Any chance of a pic? If not can you explain the deposits? Was the car blowing any white smoke? Either way I don't think it can be the head, not for all 4 cylinders. If its a stock '02 manifold maybe corrosion or a crack inside is allowing coolant to enter the intake? You could take off the cover on the bottom of the manifold to check inside. Cheers Ben
  23. satsuma
    Hmm I take it that this box is rare?? I took another look at it today and i was wrong as the mount is more towards the back of the car that the standard '02 4 speed. By about 20mm or 3/4". I dropped the prop shaft off at my local fab shop and asked them to cut off 47mm (1 7/8") I hope its right If anyone hears of different numbers please let me know. Cheers Ben
  24. satsuma
    As far as I know the only differences are the rear lights and front grills, everything else will interchange. All the running gear is the same also. Cheers Ben
  25. satsuma
    In my experience I have had hesitancy on steep hills when accelerating, this is normally bad ignition. The spark on one cylinder taking the easy way out by tracking from a bad plug or HT lead to the cylinder head. If you loose all power I would say it was fuel and try resetting the floats like you said. Good Luck Ben
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