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felix_666

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Everything posted by felix_666

  1. felix_666
    Has anyone bought and installed the new stainless system (center collector and muffler) into a RHD car. I understand the two-to-one collector wont fit, as indicated on the site, and I emailed ireland who seemed to think it will work, but would like to hear from someone hear. Shipping costs being as much as the item means a return would be devastating. I've been quoted around the 1K mark for a local equivalent, hence the international buying. If any locals (Aus) have an exhaust shop to recommend i'd be interested. Thanks.
  2. felix_666
    Nice write up, I think I need to pull mine as it's weeping a little, gasket only, no sealant, bummer. Sounds like you might know a bit about the LSD's. I installed one in my project which seems to groan/pop a little when pushing it around the garage, is this normal or should they be dead quiet? Internally it looked fine, no pitting/scoring/worn gears when i installed it. Car isn't drivable so all i can do is push it about to test, or pull it. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
  3. felix_666
    Random updates, no real order. Can anyone can tell me why this overider isn't sitting flush? The other side is perfect...
  4. felix_666
    Nice 02, a pretty rare set up I imagine in Aus. There are a few places to get parts, such a panels. I would recommend Ash Sprague at Brighton BMW, 02 enthusiast and Bmw spare parts guy. Particularly helpful for big/precious items where you don't want to have to worry about shipping, however, you do pay a premium, as with most things in Australia, supply/demand etc. That said, Steve at Blunt industries in the States is pretty sharp with his prices, quotes within 24 hours, and reasonably priced shipping. He has a stellar record with helping me with parts. wallothnesch (google them) are pretty good, but you need to spend a bit before it makes it worth while. Although with our dollar on parade with the US it makes it hard to go past Blunt. Also there is the local 02 Register which is helpful/friendly way of finding secondhand (sometimes new) parts. All the best.
  5. felix_666
    Sweeto burrito
  6. felix_666
    I'm aware they have them, but with their shipping and all the rest it wil be cheaper For me to machine them up, could still measure it up, it would be very helpful, not only for myself but others too . Thanks.
  7. felix_666
    Excellent! I guess the height, thickness, inside/outside diameter, hopefully they all square up. Also, are they spilt or solid? If your caliper measures in mm that would be great. Thanks.
  8. felix_666
    Any chance you have one of the bushes to measure, height, i.d. etc? As they are NLA I'm guessing I'll have to make a substitute. Thanks.
  9. felix_666
    All good I worked it out.
  10. felix_666
    Any chance Mike you could post a copy of the article you wrote in the FAQ Article section so we can all have a gander? I'm currently doing this and confused as to whether you install the mirror or gasket last, I'm guessing gasket?
  11. felix_666
    Hey mate, I noticed you had asked questions about lining up the 5-speed tranny with the tail shaft in other threads. Any chance you could fill us in as to how you went about it? Just in the process of doing this, but my engine is out, but once lined up I will install the whole lot (engine/sub frame/engine) as one.
  12. felix_666
    thats what i thought, but when I've seen others (such as in the link below) they don't match. the onlt difference is mine has its mounting tabs on the front of the radiator, not the back (closest to the engine). Those channels wouldn't help, my mounting holes on the radiator don't line up at all with the body regardless of how I position the radiator. I would need to make a 10mm space, the distance from the radiator tabs to the body, and drill new holes in the body. http://www.bayarea02.com/techtips/arne_tectip1.html
  13. felix_666
    Trying to work out what this radiator is from. I originally bought it many years ago as a replacement for my 02, but it doesn't really line up at all. I could cut the feet down, but still not sure there will be space for the bottom hose. The tabs on the radiator are on the front, attaching to the nose, but wont sit flush, I would need some 1/4" spacers. Overall it measures 45.5cm (17 15/16") wide, 50cm (19 3/4") high.
  14. felix_666
    Not yet, I'm thinking I'll get it re-anodised as I've got a new set of waist trim coming, being pedantic, I don't want a miss match. I spoke with some paint shops and they reckon you either leave it like it is and keep buffing it every now and then, or anodise it like original. They don't recommend spraying it with a clear coat (such as the clear aluminium wheel stuff) as it needs something to bite to. I finished sanding the piece with 2000 grit, which is too smooth for any paint I know of. Yet you read of people who seemingly having success with this method, however, I would be really annoyed if the clear coat started peeling or something as this work is incredibly time consuming, hence why you pay a lot for people to do it.
  15. felix_666
    On the rubber? No, not needed, your product of choice will sort that out. On the stainless? No, unnecessary again.
  16. felix_666
    A quick guide to restoring the knee high trim. The same principals can be applied to any other bits of rubber or plastic - (plastic tends to need more attention) Stock - some pieces are scratched, while some have that permanent watermark look. I started with 600 grit wet/dry (use soapy water) on areas that were bad, then moved to 800, 1200, 1500. You could go further (2000 etc) but with rubber there isn't much point. Then i used my dremel and some grey (or red if you prefer) cutting compund with a felt tip. If you have stone marks you could sand them out first and then buff it, but this will be a lot of work/time. I think the metal is stainless and it comes up pretty good, even with small pitting/stone marks. Spray/rub in some plastic/rubber restorer and you're done. The same principals can be used to polish the aluminium trim. If anyone is interested I can post up my findings on how to make aluminium look like this (does require a great deal more effort):
  17. felix_666
    great start, thanks.
  18. felix_666
    old thread I know, but can anyone give me the number of dowels that locate the lower timing cover to the block, 2 or more? And while you're answering can you remind me where there are others, obviously there are two that locate the head to the block. The problem of trying to put things back together several years later.
  19. felix_666
    If it were as simple as you've suggested I would have taken this path. Unfortunately I'm pretty certain it's illegal to alter seat belts by trimmers, I think I remember being told there are a couple of companies that can do such work, across the country. Due to our population and isolation we pay a great deal for such things. I've checked all the obvious channels, hence my reach to the states. Given my car is not going to be a daily (which is currently a motorbike), I'm happy with using 40 year old webbing. I think a nice secondhand set is still the simplest solution. Appreciate your assistance. I might end up buying something locally like this, and making it work: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HOLDEN-HQ-BROWN-FACTORY-LAP-SASH-SEAT-BELT-SEATBELT-SS-GTS-MONARO-/200783065152?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ebf9a7040#ht_928wt_1187
  20. felix_666
    ok thanks, but the aftermarket stuff isn't going to to look like the original stuff. I'm happy to pay someone to use my parts, or new parts to make the belts up again, if its going to be relatively original looking. My parts could be cut out and re-finished (electro platers), then sewed back in. However I was hoping to find someone with secondhand belts before I went down this path. Shipping to Australia is fine, my little box of seatbelts must weigh no more than 3-4kg which costs around $70-90. I also have other parts being sent from the US regularly with could be combined. How is dying bad for the belts? I have used synthetic dye and water in the past with good results.
  21. felix_666
    I've contemplated refurbing mine, a bit of work. Need to dye the belts black, then buff up the metal parts, problem is some of them have begun to rust, tricky to fix without unpicking the belts.
  22. felix_666
    Hi, I'm after early style seat belts in black, all five, the type that doesn't retract. I currently have a full set but they are faded, worn, torn or rusty. I'm in Melb Australia, happy to pay postage for some nice belts - ideally no rips or flaky chrome on most of them. Pictures are good. Thanks.
  23. felix_666
    Excellent. I'm really only thinking about postage, I'm guessing the bottomless design would be 1/3 of the weight. I forget, what are they made from, 1/16 s/s? Its a dilemma because my seats are new in the sense that they have just been reupholstered and i would like to keep them that way. Decisions.
  24. felix_666
    Looks good, nice update. Are you making the simpler style as well, without the bottom?
  25. felix_666
    I pulled the centre bearings out on one, which doesn't separate them but makes them loose, so the rattle, enough so that they should get evenly zinced. I can't work out how to do it on the others.
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