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jc4me2

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Everything posted by jc4me2

  1. jc4me2
    Hey guys, not saying I know more than anyone, but when I rebuilt the engine in my 71, I bypassed the heater intake with the 320i stuff so I could swap in DCOE's without spilling coolant everywhere. I've had no drivability issues, and it actually feels like it gets more power due the more cool, dense air entering the engine. I haven't driven it in weather under 40 deg, but it runs fine down that low so far.
  2. jc4me2
    Thanks esty, whenever I hit your email button, it sends me to the faq home screen. I'd be happy to email you, or my address is listed above.
  3. jc4me2
    Hey guys, I need two front bases with gaskets and one good orange reflector, and the passenger rear red roundie reflector (non illuminating) with base and gasket. jgkahrs at gmail dot com Thanks, Jordan
  4. jc4me2
    Man, I put a 292 in my engine when i rebuilt it in my 71. Stock (8.6:1) pistons, everything else stock, with an Ireland mech. dizzy and stainless exhaust. Its freaking awesome. I just got past 500 miles, so I can drive past 3k and up. It sounds great and pulls way harder than my 75 with 9.5:1 pistons and a stock cam. Now the 75 is a lot heavier, my 71 has no interior and is very light, the 75 has factory everything. I want to put a 292 in that car now. Both have correctly jetted 32/36s also. I couldn't believe the difference the 292 made, specially since the other car had high comp pistons too. Both car are daily drivers, and I only drive the 71 now. Put the cam in, you will love it! Jordan
  5. jc4me2
    I'll take if if it's not sold. Jgkahrs@gmail.com thanks, Jordan
  6. jc4me2
    Kansas is awesome for this stuff. They will title anything you want them to, and they don't ask questions. Not sure if you have to be a resident...
  7. jc4me2
    My 71 has one, but I don't think the door is original. The sticker is blank, obviously never filled out, but its painted (original paint) sahara everywhere, unlike mike's car. Could be a replacement sahara door. Jordan
  8. jc4me2
    I cannot find the Hirschmann I removed from the car, I know some guys have some sitting around they pulled from parts cars. I just need the actual antenna, i still have the wire part. Also looking for a decent tool kit for the 71. Email me at jgkahrs at gmail dot com Thanks, Jordan
  9. jc4me2
    I just need one of the early holders, not the arm, just the original part than snaps onto it. jgkahrs at gmail dot com Thanks, Jordan
  10. jc4me2
    Interested in the valve cover.
  11. jc4me2
    Hey guys, my stalk fell apart, and apparently you need it to run the headlights. Its the one that goes on the left, but doesn't have the turn signal switch on it. Preferably the tapered one, not the bulb one from the early roundies. Also need a working reverse switch. Jgkahrs at gmail dot com Thanks, Jordan
  12. jc4me2
    Dude, see the two bolts in your picture? Take another one, stick in through the open hole in your picture, put the bracket on it, and put some washers and a nut on the bolt.
  13. jc4me2
    Your email button doesn't work. I'll take the .25 over ones if you still have them. jgkahrs at gmail dot com Thanks, jordan
  14. jc4me2
    Do you still have the rings?
  15. jc4me2
    He's right- I think I'm just on an engine building jag. Definitely see whats up in the head first.
  16. jc4me2
    And as for the coolant in the cylinders, you probly have a cracked head. Start looking for a new 121 or 121ti. There are guys on here with some laying around. Then find a good macine shop to do a valve job, check for cracks and mill it down flat. As for the bottom end, you really should do that too. Strip it all and take to the shop, they'll check you crank and balance everything, etc. There is much fun to be had! Start reading!
  17. jc4me2
    Wow dude. No offense, but that is really ugly. You better start stripping that engine bay. I'm surprised you didn't do that before paint... I'm just finishing an engine rebuild. If you shop around for parts and do everything but the machining yourself, its not insanely expensive. Your car deserves it. Looks like it really needs it too..
  18. jc4me2
    Hello, Just looking for a decent set without cracks or major pitting on the chrome, there should be plenty out there with all the euro converts. Email me at jgkahrs at gmail dot com. Thanks, Jordan
  19. jc4me2
    email me at jgkahrs AT gmail DOT com if you still have it. Thanks, Jordan
  20. jc4me2
    I'll take the tii booster, if you are interested in selling. My email is jgkahrs AT gmail DOT com. Thanks, Jordan
  21. jc4me2
    Thanks for the link! I have the same thing, pulling #1 or #3 does nothing. I'll have to get that tool. I moved the return spring to between the carbs, and I did check the progresstion holes so I know the shaft aren't bent. Bottoming out #1 and #3 does nothing, but if #1 isn't scewed all the way in, the rpms drop.. I'll look into the ignition, hopefully that will solve it. Thank for the help Jordan
  22. jc4me2
    They are old Italian 45's. The rear is a 16 and the front is a 13. The 16 was sent to pierce manifolds to free a stuck accelerator pump, and they said everything else looked fine and the two both had the same progression drillings adn should work together. I thouroughly cleaned in every nook and cranny while they were apart. I'm gonna check and adjust the floats; I'm hoping that some of my problem is there. I dont remember any issues with bent throttle shafts, they both opened smoothly and together. Maybe my throttle return spring is bending the shaft? Its hooked to an arm on the rear most of the shaft with the other end on the dizzy housing. Thanks for your help. Jordan
  23. jc4me2
    Thanks for the help. I rebuilt the carbs, and the shafts felt fine. I'll look into the progression hole drillings. I am using 50F8 idle jets btw. Any ideas as to why the suction on no.4 is much less? It didn't change when I pulled the brake booster assist line. One of the guys on here said he had leaking misture screws, and when he sealed them, the richness problem went away. I have the o-rings under the mixture screws, what more can I do? Thanks, Jordan
  24. jc4me2
    Hello, I just installed some 45's on my car, and its not running right. I've read all through the archives, but I thought I might as well tell you what's happening. Its a 75, stock cam, 9.5:1 pistons, and capped vacuum advance dizzy with crane fireball, and a stock mechanical fuel pump. I think some of the problem may be the timing, and I'm working on that; I have a Bosch 002 and Ireland mechanical ones. Anyway, all venturies are pulling around 5 on the syncrometer, except no. 4, its at like 3. Moving nos. 1 and 4 idle mixtures does nothing, and I assume they are too rich and drowning the spark; removing their plug wires does nothing. No. 2 mixture can be turned all the way in, but it misfires if backed out more than 3/4 turn. No. 3 will misfire if bottomed out. That's good right? Also, no. 2 leaks gas badly between the carb and manifold after its shut off, and yes the nuts are tight. I'm using the ti insulators with gaskets on both sides. I realize this is a bunch of info, but where do I need to start here? Its very possible the float heights aren't perfect, though I thought they were when I set them. Since it runs, the timing can't be causing all of this right Any help is appreciated. This is my daily, I'm beginning to regret pulling the 32/36. Thanks, Jordan
  25. jc4me2
    Hey guys, it doesn't need to be pretty, just a known working piece. I don't need the bracket either. Email me at jgkahrs AT gmail DOT com. Thanks, Jordan
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