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AlanM

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Everything posted by AlanM

  1. AlanM
    Half a thou more clearance will not be a worry. Fairly special eqipment to measure to 10 000Ths. Was this measured by a machine shop? I would simply get the crank journals polished.
  2. AlanM
    You can't choke down an EFI pump to 3psi successfully. Yes for the Weber 3 Psi and low Psi pump, for the EFI around 40 Psi. If running low impedance injectors (2.5 Ohm) 60 Psi is possible although I doubt the Megasquirt injector drivers would be happy. Better to stay with 16 Ohm injectors.
  3. AlanM
    You have forgotten to say what your airs are. 180? 50F8 for your idles will be a lot closer to the mark. The idle screws should end up out 1.5 -2 turns from bottom.
  4. AlanM
    As has been said, with such a small difference in camber the car will track true if the castors are close to even. I truly doubt you can pick .05 of 1 degree of camber with the eye, and even doubt whether the accuracy of the equipment would be down to .05 of a degree. ie. The measurements could be repeated.
  5. AlanM
    My '73 Tii was painted Ceylon (metallic bronze). I have never seen another in this colour, and I believe BMW only had it for 1 year. I hated the colour and changed it to Golf. (yellow)
  6. AlanM
    Why would you want to cause yourself the grief? The hydraulic clutch is fine, and if you upgrade to a heavier clutch the cylinder sizes can be adjusted to give a lighter action, or less travel at the diaphragm. Longevity of the hydraulic system is not a problem.
  7. AlanM
    100 MPH in a quarter mile for an R8 Gordini!!! This would equate to a 13 second quarter. They were more like a high 16 second car. The R17 Gordini would run around the same figure. Both would top out at around 110-115 MPH.
  8. AlanM
    I have a RHD 2002 with a Wilwood pedal box in place with no worries about the length. My steering column though has had the wheel position lowered, but where it goes through the firewall is of course the same to attach to the steering box, although I use a universal instead of the flex disc. The wheel position was lowered to suit the low seating position with the race seats. I would doubt scrutineers (in AUS) would be very impressed with welded brake pedal arms, but if you were going to do it, cut them at the pedal and then reattach the pedal, so that the least amount of stress is applied to the weld when the brakes are applied, unlike the example above.
  9. AlanM
    You may want more than 25ft/lb break away. My race one is 110ft/lb, but is not what you want for street driving. I would recommend somewhere between 40-50, for sports and street use. With mine wound up as tight as it is, wet weather driving can be a little wild. You would first check your friction plates inside and replace if worn. The break away pressure can be made greater by shimming the plates.
  10. AlanM
    I would suggest that an engine dyno setup will be very expensive, and then it is unlikely they would have a set up, mounts etc for an M10. It generally takes half a day just to install it on the dyno, and another couple of hours to get it out. It does though have the advantage of being able to run the motor hard without overheating. My recommendation is to go with a chassis dyno. The motor can still be run in to a fair degree on this, and although an engine dyno is the ultimate in tuning, a chassis dyno will be fine in your circumstance.
  11. AlanM
    You are assuming of course that your 30 year old speedo is actually accurate in the first place. I would be inclined to use a dyno or GPS to test your speedo at certain speeds, and simply put a small dot of Liquid Paper to mark the point on the speedo glass.
  12. AlanM
    I have a similar, but not metal sided Hawker battery in my 02. Just one of them though, mounted behind the passenger seat in the same position as above. It weighs 9Lbs and starts a heavily modded S14 easily. It is only 15 Amp/Hr though so don't leave your lights on. I also have one of these tiny batteries on another car with a modded 4 cyl that is still going fine in its' nineth year. Not overly cheap new, but the longevity is amazing.
  13. AlanM
    Also when going up to say 400 pound springs the standard uncaged body on an 02 will flex. If fully caged, lighter springs would need to be used to get the same effect as the body flex is much reduced. I did all my calcs years ago, and ran on the track quite a bit on sticky street tyres, and was using 320 pound front springs, and a wheel rate of 200 Lb/inch in the rear. Maybe they were 280 Lb or thereabouts. Originally my car had 600 Lb rear springs with 220 fronts, and was a winning dedicated race car, but it was way too tailly for me and is definately faster in its current guise. The spring rates just mentioned work well in a Datsun P510 which has a similarish suspension, but no good in an 02.
  14. AlanM
    Generally by now your head will need guides anyway, and you are fooling yourself getting nice 3 angle seats with worn guides as the valve will try to seat in a different spot each time it closes, meaning the sealing will be lousy, besides which the seat will be cut poorly because the guide is worn anyway. New guides are inexpensive compared to the rest of the job, and I believe any new guides you buy will only suit the new teflon type guide seals anyway.
  15. AlanM
    Actually I did the math, and I think you need a new calculator. 92mm bore with 84mm stroke gives 2233.6cc, But what is a 100cc between friends. It amazes me where all these S14 cranks keep coming from, and yet there doesn't seem to be a pile of S14 blocks and heads lying around.
  16. AlanM
    I am guessing the carbs are off an Alfa. One particular Alfa 1600 has 40DCOEs with 30mm chokes 55F21 idle, and F41 emulsion. You may have misread the 41 as 47. Set the float level at 8mm. Fuel pressure should only be 2.5-3 PSI. The motor should run with the idle mixture screws out 2 turns or so, all being right. I simply use a 2 Ft piece of garden hose to listen to the carbs at their mouths at idle to determine the balance of the butterflies.
  17. AlanM
    The small case E30 diff gears etc. will fit the 2002 and the E21, and are interchangeable as matched pairs of pinion and crownwheel. I have personally fitted 4.27 E30 gears to an E21 diff that I use in my 02.
  18. AlanM
    My '73 Tii was originally Ceylon, and I did truly hate it, and I expect it wasn't very popular as it was only around for a year. I painted mine Golf, which is a pine/ limey yellow non metallic colour that was around from '71 - '79. Stands out in a crowd, although all 02s do.
  19. AlanM
    There is an easy way to know which valve to adjust by using the firing order, and it works on every car. 1 3 4 2 Just follow the order. Have No1 exhaust valve fully open, adjust No 3 inlet and No 4 exhaust. Then turn the motor over a small amount to find that No 3 exhaust will be the next exhaust valve open, so then adjust No 4 inlet and No 2 Exhaust and so on till you go through the firing order.
  20. AlanM
    If the engine actually needs bearings then the rest of it will need overhaul as well. The top side of the big ends are usually what wears most. Usually the crank would be checked for round and small grooves in the journals are linished/polished out. Bit hard with the engine in the car. Do you have low oil pressure?
  21. AlanM
    I would suggest your detonation has little to do with jetting and more to do with ign timing. I suspect you simply have too much advance in the midrange, and that a tii setting may well not be right for your car given your cam, carbs, and compression compared to a tii. Larger chokes would change all of this again. You really need 38s in 45s, and the custom timing set up on a dyno.
  22. AlanM
    If the pump is working OK, I would leave well enough alone. After 25 years of playing with DCOEs, I have never had one fail. I have found that the carbs that have been "rebuilt" are usually the cause of why an engine won't run properly, and often the complaint is that the carbs go out of tune. This simply is not true. I may move the balance screw for the butterflies maybe a 1/16th of a turn once a year at worst, in a car I use a few times a week. Unless something else in the engine has changed, DCOEs will hold their tune and are an excellent instrument given the technology of their day.
  23. AlanM
    Yes that is my car about 8 down from the top in the Gallery, Golf with 5 spoke wheels, and cage. The pedal box is a Willwood, using universal master cylinders with no booster. 20mm ea for the brakes and 16mm for the clutch, (24mm slave) as it is an aluminium 184mm AP competition clutch that only requires 4.5mm to release, unlike the 15mm or so that the std one does.
  24. AlanM
    My headers are the Golf coloured car above and in my other posting I said I had moved my master cylinders inside and used a universal instead of the std flex joint in the steering to allow more room for pipes. It is hard to get a decent photo of the pipes. My engine is very heavily modded and as such my pipes are likely to be too large for street use in a std engine. Off the top of my head ( and I can't afford to lose much more) the pipes are 4-1, 1.75" 28-30" long. I have 320+ degree cams and rev it to 9K. It is certainly not very street friendly, and doesn't do much below 5000. I would suggest for a more std engine to go 4-2-1 and take the length to 34". The primaries should be 15" long. I expect any exhaust maker with a reputation would be able to input your specs and design pipes to suit. A 2.5" system would be fine, although mine is 2.75".
  25. AlanM
    I am not a fan of the exhaust wrap, as it seems to cause the covered pipe to rust more quickly. The ceramic coating of my 4-1 headers was $180 AUD, which is hardly a huge extravagance given the rest of the money spent to get to get up to that point. The coating is very effective at keeping underbonnet temps down, and is also supposed to give more Hp, but I have no proof of this. I have my whole system coated, bar a stainless tip.
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