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AlanM

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  1. AlanM
    I run an aftermarket quad throttle EFI system using wasted spark on a twin coil set up, and have experimented on the dyno with plug gaps on a fairly modified engine. In my case at least, with a 121 head, there is no increase in power beyond 36 thou, going up to 44 thou with no misfire, but no Hp gain. I use NGK Iridium single earth electrode plugs. I think you could safely run 30 thou with your set up.
  2. AlanM
    Accelerator pump diaphragm probably from a downdraft Weber, as stated above.
  3. AlanM
    Do you mean that one carb has more flow on one throat than the other, or do you mean than one sucks at 3 and one carb sucks at 7 on both its throats. If the latter is the case you will only have to adjust the mechanism that connects onto the arms to even up the flow at idle. I would go with the 125 mains and 200 airs at this stage with the 32mm chokes, and maybe a 50 F8 rather than an idle with such a large corrector hole. From smallest(richest) to largest idle corrector hole is as listed. F6, F12, F9, F8, F11, F13, F2, F4, F5, F7, F1, F3
  4. AlanM

    AlanM

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  5. AlanM
    I have a Sachs 228mm M3 clutch cover with an Ireland Eng sprung centre 4 puck type plate, on a lightened flywheel in my M10 making 165 rwhp. Drives as a standard clutch would. Maybe it does bite a little harder, but doesn't cause me to stall. No need for a lot of revs or more than normal amount of slipping on takeoff.
  6. AlanM
    Over 30 years playing with DCOE Webers and I never did buy a synchoniser. I simply use a 2 Ft piece of garden hose to listen to the suck at the mouth of the trumpet, a bit like a stethoscope. I agree that it is rare that each butterfly is exact, with there being a slight bend in most shafts. I do sometimes check in the setup, the position of the butterflies in regards the progression holes that are under the small brass screws near the front. I use a piece of thin copper wire down one of the progression holes to work out the butterfly position, or with a torch you may be able to see the edge of the butterfly. I would go with the jets you currently have as a start. If your carbs only have two progression holes, I have been able to improve the transition from idles to mains by drilling a third hole with a 30thou number drill.
  7. AlanM
    My current "good" engine runs a 92.5mm bore in an E30 318i block with a 2.3 S14 crank. It is an engine I bought cheaply, but I would only have gone to 91mm. Runs 10.6 to 1 with Motec and quad throttle body injection, with 165Hp at 6600 rpm at the wheels on 98 RON pump fuel. Has a custom thin 40 thou standard type head gasket. No problems so far, but I have seen bore walls that you could flex with your hand at 92mm in other M10 blocks. Maybe mine was sonically tested OK beforehand.
  8. AlanM
    I had a similar type of TDC sensor on my M10. I did find that the position the ECU was seeing moved around a bit with the chain driving the cam, and the distributor running off the skew gear on the cam. This moved so much that at high revs my M4 Motec would bring up a synch fault. I fixed this by fitting a support boss for the GT101 sensor on the front of the timing case cover, and making up a tooth that bolted to the end of the camshaft eliminating the skew gear, and possible camshaft twist at high rpm because of the large cam and heavy valve springs. The engine became much more responsive in its tuning after fitting the new type pick up.
  9. AlanM
    Just to add something a little more out there. Is the cam timing correct? If the cam were 1 tooth advanced it would also have no top end power. If you pull the tappet cover and bring the engine to no.1 TDC on compression, with both exhaust and inlet having clearance, then no.4 will be on overlap, meaning both valves will have no clearance and both will be partially depressed a bit under 2mm with a standard cam. If one valve has clearance then the cam timing is out. If the motor had a big cam fitted it would have been having valve to piston clearance issues if it were out by a tooth. While you are at it, checking the tappet clearances wouldn't be a bad thing to do whilst you have the cover off.
  10. AlanM
    I have built a few modified M10s, one with an E12 head and others using the 121. As a standard head I think the E12 might flow a little extra, and 121s are usually used as the combustion chamber is smaller so as to get more compression and has more "squish" area to force the mixture toward the centre of the chamber and cause more turbulence giving better combustion. Back in the day my 2L E12 M10 made 130 Hp at the wheels at 7200 on Webers. My latest 121, 4mm stroked M10 makes 165 Hp at the wheels at 6700, with quad throttle body Motec injection. After modification, big valves, porting, custom pistons, I don't think there is much in it. I have found 121s seem to crack more than others, but now I weld the head and re-drill holes for the water galleries to prevent this. Not that I am currently using one, but I do like the Shrick 304 for your type of use, but buy some of the better rockers from Ireland or others, as failure often occurs with biggish cams and springs, and high revs. With the injection even the 316 was reasonably streetable. I currently use an Australian Cam from Tighe Cams, a 521A. You can look up the specs on their site. I had this in a street/race car for many years on Webers.
  11. AlanM
    I would be interested in what the cam grinder specified as the lift ramps may well be different to the original BMW cam necessitating a different clearance. If no info available I would still go with 8 thou inlet 10 thou exhaust.
  12. AlanM
    Are you using DCOE Webers for induction? The rpm point of peak power can be raised by retarding the cam a little. It may be worth seeing where it is currently. A simple check is to put the piston to TDC on overlap and check how much valve lift you have. If the cam is neither advanced or retarded this will be approximately equal and around 2mm or 2.5mm from my failing memory for a 304.
  13. AlanM
    Try disconnecting the tachometer wire from the negative side of the coil. I have had the tachometer short the coil to ground at a particular rpm as it sort of reaches a resonant frequency on a failed input capacitor.
  14. AlanM
    I have IE springs and titanium retainers in my race engine with a very similar cam to a Schrick 316. Certainly no valve float up to 7700 rpm, and the cam doesn't seem to falling apart with excessive pressures. These springs have been fitted for approx 2000 race klms. I did have a 316 in my M10, but with some more head mods, the cam (Tighe Cams 521A) and spring/retainer change, and a little more compression, longer ram tubes (from 4" from 8"), multi -hole injectors the engine now makes 165Hp at 6600 at the wheels, up from 150 at 7300, with between 8 and 20 more Hp from 2000 rpm up, on the same dyno in similar weather conditions. The new set up only loses 2 hp from 6600 to 7300.
  15. AlanM
    I have a track/street 2002 that has done approx 3000 klm on the track in the last 5 years on the same Febi brand guibo. My M10 makes 165 Hp at the wheels. I think the problems with guibos that people are having is more to do with the set up, than a weakness in the guibo design in itself. A friend with a track 02 with a S14 M3 motor in place has 230 Hp at the wheels, and until recently when he changed to a sequential gearbox was running a standard guibo without problems.
  16. AlanM
    Do you have an E21 diff fitted without using spacers or longer shafts? The output flange is only held in with a round circlip along the shaft and will pop out if one of the above mods is not done, giving you no drive if you have an open diff.
  17. AlanM
    Happy to chalk it up to the incident above but want to check that I have not missed something else. Also, does anyone know what the correct bolts sizes are for the guibo. I am guessing they should all be metric, not a combination of UNF(?) and metric! You have High Tensile UNC (Unified National Course) bolts fitted which I guess are 3/8". Yes you should have 10mm Metric Bolts with a tensile rating of at least 8.8 on the top of it. 10.8s would be better. I use allen key inhex style bolts that are I think 12.3, with new nyloc nuts fitted. Running 165 Hp at the wheels in a track car, but not having any trouble with guibos. I have some aftermarket German brand guibo in mine.
  18. AlanM
    I have a 318i block M10 out to 92mm with 84mm stroke in a built engine I bought. I was surprised to find it was out to 92 when I removed the head to try and find some more Hp. I had thought it was only 90.5 for some reason, and I also think 91.5 is the full limit of our blocks. I saw a 2002 block that had been taken out to 91.5, and after a teardown there was a discolouration on the wall of number 1 cylinder against the water pump. Seems the wall was so thin that it could be pushed out of shape with your finger. It had a fair bit of blowby on this cylinder. I did find some more power though, up from 150 to 165 Hp at the wheels on the same dyno. The bores looked OK.
  19. AlanM
  20. AlanM
  21. AlanM
    I have a 235/5 in my mostly tracked 02, and have used Redline Lightweight shockproof in the gearbox and LS diff with no adverse effects for many years. I found that it dropped the temp on the diff significantly compared to a "standard" type LSD oil. I have not measured the gearbox temp before the change and after to make a statement about the difference, if any. I have also used the Lightweight Shockproof in most of my other vehicles and dry clutch bikes with good results. Synchros have gotten better, and I feel (don't know if it is all in my head) that there is more power in my old BMW bikes.
  22. AlanM
    I have also found that a late model Mazda MX5 (Miata) runs a 15" space saver with 4 x 100 pattern. I just have to find a wrecker with one. Earlier cars had a 14" space saver.
  23. AlanM
    Chances are if it blows smoke on overrun that valve guides/seals are the problem. Replacing seals by themselves is a false economy, and is rarely the answer because if they are tired, the guides won't be far behind. Guides are cheap in the whole scheme of things, and if they are worn you will not get the valve to seal properly at revs, even with a lapping, given you have a rocker putting some sideways thrust on the valvestem as it opens and closes the valve. If the motor is oiling up plugs, chances are it is tired all over. I use NGK 8s(coldish plug) in my race M10 with a schrick 316, but can drive it on the street without fouling plugs. Even with big output ignition systems I have not found any gains on the dyno with over 32 thou plug gap. I do like the NGK Iridium plugs, being that these are less likely to foul given the fine electrode, and last very well.
  24. AlanM
    I have seen 3 racks fitted to RHD cars in Australia. The big problem and I expect it would also be for LHD cars, is that the steering column is at a bad angle to the rack and would require the CV or universal to operate at approx 75 degrees. A CV might handle this but the uni joint will make the steering go in a fast/slow manner as it is turned. On a friends racecar this was solved by making the steering column steeper and come out of the firewall about 6" below where it normally would, so to be closer in line to the rack shaft.
  25. AlanM
    No other BMW has the same spline as a 2002. I have found that a series 1 Toyota Tarago has the same spline as a 2002. The Toyota has 3 uni joints in the steering column, but the bottom on gets worn, so best to just get the adjustable steering column from a wreck which will give you 2. The Toyota only has the unis splined at one end and so you will have to pull apart two to make one. Now this works on a 2002, but what to do about getting it to fit to an E21 rack I don't know. I have seen this mod done on RHD cars, but they used a modified Ford Laser/Meteor rack. The angle of the 2002 steering column when connecting to a rack is virtually too great for one joint, and may be better with 2 joints sharing the angular change, as you have if you used the E21 rack and shaft that is in place now. In the case of one race type 2002 the angle of the column was made steeper, bringing the column out maybe 6" below where it used to, so that the rack and column were more in alignment. If the uni is at too great an angle, the steering will get a fast/ slow type effect as it is turned. A CV type joint would solve this and would be able to work at a greater angle than a uni. Perhaps get a steering CV joint used in racecars and have both shafts resplined to suit. Sounds expensive, but may be the best solution, or see if a Toyota Tarago rack will suit your application.
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