Tiger75

A week from tomorrow!! My early expectations of a low "turn out" was wrong. Could have as many as 30 folks. Hope one keg is enough! Anybody coming that I don't know about?

Troy tells me he needs everybody's paperwork for the Highland Parade by Jan 27th. If you want to drive in the Highland Parade on Sunday Feb 18th, send a copy of your drivers lisc, copy of your insurance card and $15 fee to Troy immediately. He can be reached at E-mail Address: powlcat@yahoo.com Also let me know about when you plan to hit town. Tim Krewe Chief

It came out great. It cost me 10 or 15 bucks in material and I have enough to do a couple more. See my old post last month for website. old post Subject: It can be done- found it I bought some stuff on the interent and it looks great. It was a spray glue- might have been brush on , it has been awhile. You got a bag of fuzz. An applicator was about$1. you blew the stuff on and let it dry overnight. Mine can out great. It was not cheap but was not unreasonable. I haven't found the name of it. I will repost if I find it. http://www.donjer.com/ I used soft flock - came out great

(nt)

Site works but "brake lamp" does not.

I bought some stuff on the interent and it looks great. It was a spray glue- might have been brush on , it has been awhile. You got a bag of fuzz. An applicator was about$1. you blew the stuff on and let it dry overnight. Mine can out great. It was not cheap but was not unreasonable. I haven't found the name of it. I will repost if I find it. http://www.donjer.com/ I used soft flock - came out great

I found a used one in Houston for $75 but by the time I would have paid shipping and a rebuild shop , it would cost more than a new one. I paid $135 for a new one + $55 core charge - really a bosch rebuild, don't think there are any new ones any more.

read this for the wiring problem I had http://www.thetiiregister.com/phpmyfaq/index.php?action=artikel&cat=19&id=25&artlang=en I searched FAQ and that other board for all posts on M3 starters. Found a bunch, Best one was http://home.woh.rr.com/fairacres/Karl/Karl.html It is a step by step with pictures. If I did it again I would use allen head bolts as shown at the end of this post http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,282795/highlight,tii+starter+removal/

I finished installation last week, but did not get to drive it till this past weekend. The starter really turns the engine to a high cranking speed quickly. Engine starts up almost immediately. I have a Tii and you know how you have to let the electric fuel pump pressure before you crank. Well, mine starts up immediately with out doing that. I will have to let it sit for a week or so and see if it still starts so quickly with out pressuring up the fuel system. This is a great upgrade. I highly recommend it!!

I have the larger wires correctly attached. My queston was about the small wire that attaches at the 12 oclock position. It is black with ared stripe. After furthur research, play with volt meter and help from Keith Kreeger, I have concluded that the M3 starter soloniod is wired different than tha stock 2002 starter for the smaller terminal 30 at 12 oclock. while turning the solonoid supplies 12 volts to this terminal but with iginition on or off this terminal is grounded. Since the black wire with red stripe is meant to supply 12 volts to the coil during starting. car starts with starter turning. Once starter stops, black w/red wire is grounded at solonoid which grounds out the coil, which means no ignition - motor dies. My solution is to disconnect balck w/red wire at both ends. My car has electronic ignition and I do not need a ballast bypass - I have no points.

I installed an M3 Starter in my 74 Tii. My original starter still worked and was drawing about 30 amps but still seemed a little weak. With the timing properly set, during start up, the engine would slightly try to kick back just before the engine would start. Rather than rebuild the original, I chose to upgrade. I finished the installation last night. The difference is amazing. Engine starts quicker and starter turns motor over with authority. I did have one wiring issue that I have not figured out. I was unsure which of the small clip on wires went on the top terminal. I installed it the way I thought it should go. The engine would start but would die immediately after the starter quit. I could tell the ignition was loosing power when the starter quit because the red light on my Crane 3000 ignition would go out when the starter quit. I swapped the top and bottom wires and the starter motor would turn but not engage. The starter might have been turning backwards but since the battery wire and the ground wire were not changed , I am unsure. But it did not work that way so I swapped the wires back. Now the larger of two small wires was on the bottom terminal of the solenoid (50). The large power cable from the battery was on the large terminal 30 . This starter had a second terminal 30(not 15) on the top. The single black wire was connected here. I think this is the wire that is supposed to give full voltage to the coil and points during start up bypassing the ballast. When I disconnected this wire, everything worked ! After starting the engine, if this wire was connected, the engine immediately died. It is like it shorted out power to the ignition. My electronic ignition gets its power from the coil, but I can’t figure out why connecting this wire would short out ignition. Any body know what’s going on? Well anyway If I just leave this wire disconnected, the starter works great! Should have done this years ago.

my 74 (Behr) has a relayt that cuts power to heater if ac in on. it was under the dash up near the heater box

It is a littte pump that has a radiator cap on the end. You can pressure up on your cooling system when it is cold and look for leaks. There is also a water based dye that can be addded to coolant. You use a floresent light to see where it drips out.

bearings whine when they get pitted

muratic acid - swimming pool addative- works great. eats up any rust.

It is on top of the air box. plug the hoses on each end of it and see if high idle disappears. mine did.

which 04 do you add. realoem lists only one 03 but it lists 3 different parts numbers for 04. 1.9mm, 2.00 mm and 2.10 mm. I am looking at an e21 lsd. is it one set of 3&4 give you 25% lock? two sets of 3&4 give you 50% lock? and three sets of 3&4 give you 75% lock? And you have to add a set on each side so you order them in pairs?

Hear that Clyde!

Gemini Parade Sat. Feb 17th night Highland Parade Sun. Feb 18th afternoon We watch one then drive in one. Ah Cher, we pass a good time! yeah.

Sounds like a bad decel valve - it is on top of the air cleacer canister. plug vac hose on each end and high irratic idle will stop.

$134.78 - a remanufactured one with a $55 core charge. Suppose to get it tomorrow from Taylor Automotive. Free shipping too.

With a k not a g

I have read on this board and been told by an expert that we should not use platinum plugs in our 4 cylinders. Why not? I heard they foul rather quickly. Is this true? Has anybody used Bosch W7DSR Silver plugs? I heard they reduce misfires and engine start up is quicker.

I am thinking about upgradeing to an 80 amp AL46X alternator from a 318. I read in a earlier post that the battery had to be in the trunk for the AL46X to fit in a Tii. Is this true? I don't want to have to move my battery.

I just installed a new one from 02again.com . $300 - I lookes great. I have not run it yet. Maybe tomorrow My old one cracked in the same place. I had it welded but it only lasted a few months. Take a look at Tom's website .