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TobyB

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Everything posted by TobyB

  1. TobyB
    Ed JUST did a thread on this- https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/336040-driveshaft-flange-question/#comment-1662146 and I can't believe he left out the bump stop! Jeeze, Ed! Seriously, though, I've never seen one of those, and I've taken apart at least 2 of these cars in a Western Auto parking lot. Given that the guibo is acting as a pretty strong snubber anyway, maybe that's intended, as that metal strap on the right side motor mount, as a limiter against engine motion. Because the driveshaft's certainly not going to come forward on you. Oh, or maybe it's helping preload... but it'd be... pushing the wrong way? BMW wants you to have tension on the driveshaft, not pressure. Eh? t
  2. TobyB
    Did the Brady Bunch have a Cordoba with Corinthian Letha? yeah, two pre- modell-71 gauges and a post- 73 cluster is what I see, too. There will be manufacture dates stamped on the pcbs of the gauges, so that'll tell you the 'when' part. But at this point, we're all a bit 'custom...' t
  3. TobyB
    ..but classical physics is not. A v8 fits just fine, until you want to put manifolds and plumbing onto it. Then things get... cramped. Quite cramped. Hmm. I wonder if a 'hot v' would work... It's all do- able, but it's off the old Pelican Auto Parts banana scale... There were 3 M42/m44's in the cheap, friendly yard up the road from me last week- they usually get $250 for a complete engine with accessories. And I've not taken good care of the 2 M42's I've had, and both have held up fine- you can buy quite a few 'gamble' engines and not be up to the cost of a complete timing chain set with guides and tensioner rails. t finds the theory of the M42 attractive, but the practical aspects to be... expensive beyond their merits.
  4. TobyB
    13x7 0 offset works, too. I've run that. Not wider, as that was the E Prod spec back when I was running them. I'm sure a 13x8 would work, too, as the numbers work out just about perfectly, but I'm not sure you could run much wider than a 205 tire. Also, the 205-60 was still readily available in race rubber last I looked (which was some time back, now) The 10" cantilevers also worked on the 7" rims, but the turbo flares left at that point for some 4" fender extensions. I think I ran about an ET-20 (20mm out) or so rim to use those 13's. t wider is better IF you can get the whole patch to touch... which gets hard as things get wide.
  5. TobyB
    I'd go engine shopping. The M42 parts have long been stupidly expensive, and IF you can find a used engine, they're tough, and usually last a long time. Did you have an oiling issue? Thrust bearing? t
  6. TobyB
    +2 for Steven. I have had a few 'dry' installs be REALLY hard to bleed properly, and when this happens, loosening the fittings (with Mike's rags underneath) does the trick. t
  7. TobyB
    as far as I've seen, even the 1.8i crank's forged, it's just not as evenly balanced. t
  8. TobyB
    If you can find the old metal one, it's better than the new rubber grommet. t
  9. TobyB
    I'll look next time I'm inside one of mine, but I don't think I do use wave warshers. Byron, we're waiting for you to admit what you do... t
  10. TobyB
    ET0 worked well with my car with 6" 13's, when it had turbo flares on it, but that let me easily run a 205-60-13 RA1, which is a really big tire for its dimensions (as in, Toyo makes their race rubber larger than their street rubber) t
  11. TobyB
    The sender forms a resistive voltage divider to ground- it doesn't get 12 as such, it sees one leg of the divider. The meter then measures the center point of the divider, and translates that to a fuel level. Since you're not metering voltage at the sender wire, something's either shorted or broken (measure resistance from the wire to the chassis) so the next step would be to pull the pin at the gauge (remove the sender wire from the 10- pin socket) and meter the pin itself. If the pin shows voltage (and the gauge drops to empty) it's a wiring problem, but if nothing changes and there's no voltage, it's a gauge problem. t divide and conquer
  12. TobyB
    My thought is that if you're going forced induction, 2 liters is a lot, and the stock crank is very stout. Beyond that, not much... t
  13. TobyB
    Sure, you could torque the head bolts- honestly, though, I wouldn't worry about it. Just run it, knowing it's a short timer. Lash won't matter much- a high ZDDP oil may mitigate the wear a bit. Or not, as I agree, that's galling. t
  14. TobyB
    Well, there's rubbing and then there's just a little touch now and then... I tried so hard to get those 0 offset Panasports to work, and it really was a matter of a fraction of a centimeter... t
  15. TobyB
    That looks about right- I had a bunch of zero offset Panasports in 13x6, when the race car had turbo flares on it, and zero offset would grind off the outside 5mm or so on the street car. So yes, 10mm inset seems like about the minimum to run those tires... t wishes his had been et 10, because then he'd still have them.
  16. TobyB
    yeah- oh, yuk. Get the Hardly Davidsunn 2400 zddp oil and run that until it dies... ...because that cam, I agree, is not ideal. My version would be saving up for a winter rebuild of another engine. Having watched others run some pretty horrible cams, though, you might get some fun out of it this summer. t
  17. TobyB
    Wrap a string around the perimeter, measure it, divide by 360, and then mark your string accordingly. I then wrap the string back around the pulley, and hit it with a chisel at the important points, and with a punch at the intermediate ones that I might be interested in later. Then use some silver Sharpie to make the lines and dots pop. Takes about 10 minutes, and making a pointer takes maybe half an hour, and then I just don't have to think about it any more. t
  18. TobyB
    I know why. Many do. The 32/36 is a progressive carb, where the 32mm bore opens first, and then the 36 follows on a bit later. the 38/38 was originally meant for a V6, with each bore feeding one bank, and it's synchronous, with both 38mm bores opening at the same time. So for the first 20 degrees of throttle shaft rotation, the 38 flows a LOT more air. Too much for a 2 liter, really, but having run one for a few years, it was still a blast. There is a 'sync link' out there for the 32/36 that opens the secondary 36mm barrel along with the 32. Never tried that. I DID find that lap times with a tired stock engine didn't much care if I was running a 32/36 or a 38/38- with a 6k rev limit and 8.2:1 compression, the 32/36 isn't a flow restriction. The 38/38 is more fun. t
  19. TobyB
    Very pretty. around here, the hemlock gets into the engine, the trunk seals, heater box, everything. The spruce, not so much of a problem. t pressure washes the dog these days.
  20. TobyB
    oh, snork. My lathe came from one of those... Issaquah, I think, since they shut them all down in the early 2000s around here. My parents had us in NYS when I was in school, and I just didn't appreciate the educational systems of the NE back then. We thought they were pretty poo- but then, I moved out here, and boy howdy, we had it good. Out here in the wild-wild-wikki-wikki-wild-wild-west, it's pretty hit or miss. Mostly miss. Don't buy a cheap welder- buy a used one off C-List or facebutt marketplace. Decent older 110v Migs show up pretty regularly for half of a new one, and usually come with a tank and regulator. And then yeah, buy an angle grinder, some gin, and I bet you could get one or more of us to come over and watch you set yourself on fire! heh t
  21. TobyB
    I'll say it baldly- it's tire losses. Transmissions don't heat much at all, and the diff loses maybe 2% at most*. Otherwise, it would melt. And they don't. I measure my RWHP by lap times. it's totally not scientific. If I want to try to see if a mechanical change has made a difference, I'll look more carefully at GPS data and sector times, and try to find laps where I came out onto the front straight at the same speed and direction, and overlay those. I have to say, 87.6% of the time, I don't have to do that- I can tell you that 'yep, it's pulling harder from 4k to 6k, but after that, it's falling on its face' or 'there's a bump at 5k, but it's odd' and most of the time it's just 'yeah' or 'no' and not all that often: 'imma look at the data, because it's different, but is the good better than the bad?' Same thing's true of suspension changes, too. Tires? I always look at the data. What feels good is often really, really bad. t *figuring that, if I make 165 hp, and the oil in the diff stabilizes at 200f with air temps at 100+f, there just CAN'T be that much heat coming out of that tiny little ring and pinion. It's an iron case. With not much surface area.
  22. TobyB
    Ugly as sin, but if the temperature stays down, who gives a hoot? I'm glad your testing protocols turned out to be a weiner. I suspect you could market yourself and get some dotcom venture capital thrown at you to boot. Or maybe tucked into the waist of your... boxers... hee. t may have to go that route one of these days, as his supply of E21 radiators is slowly but surely getting used up.
  23. TobyB
    It's going to take more pictures of the lobes to tell you much about the cam. But that one pic doesn't look... normal. Drive the car this summer, and keep an eye on the lash. I've taken apart motors with cams that looked good and rockers that were a mess, and I've made a cam with round lobes out of a bumpy one, and the rockers were fine. So just run it. And if things look questionable, yes, start scrounging up parts for a rebuild, a new motor, an LS swap, whatever tickles your fancy. Because these motors are, in fact, pretty tough IF you don't let them overheat much. t in for Cummins 4BT
  24. TobyB
    Hi! The DVD screen saver makes sense- sometimes, they get excited and start chasing it, which explains the 'instantly insane feline' behavior that will suddenly lead to the cat bouncing off all 4 walls and ending up in the kitchen sink... Gotta say, finding good shops for rust work like that hasn't been easy for a long time, but covid seems to have made things 4.87 times worse. The few shops that do work like this are booked out for years... often, your best bet is to tow 3-5 hours to get out of the area, and then you'll find something reasonable. Which is why I do my own stuff. That said, who would you trust to machine a 351 Windsor these days? All the 'usual' shops seem to have closed up. t
  25. TobyB
    Ahh, it should be far better than stock, then. Find the corresponding heater core, and run a 4 bar cap. You'll never boil over! heh t
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