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MEgasquirt Gurus. involved question re: problems.. with pics


fiftytakedowns

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car idles now.... but for some reason it is not detecting that I have spark..

heres a graph. anyone know where I shouuld look?

post-5888-13667616428359_thumb.png

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Turns out the 2.2 Board doesnt come assembled with spark ready to go. bummer. For now I can let EDIS do all the work, and I'll work on getting everything else perfect.

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I sent an EMail to DIY autotune, and he said that you have to make internal modifications to the 2.2 board in order to run spark. It costs 50 bucks plus shipping of my computer both ways to do that which is $ I dont have right now, sadly.

EDIS_In_V2.2.JPG are the modifications needed.

I cant run a stock distributor, because I have the 1.8 head with the backwards gearing for the 320 distributor. so it doesnt work :(

I already have the megasquirt Extra with spark program on my module, but apparently it wont work without the modifications.

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one of my friends is really good with a soldering gun, I am HORRID with one, but good at welding...

i'll have him take a look.

thanks charlie

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If you have an MSD 6 laying around, you can use the 318i distributer and fire the MSD with that ignition pickup.

That ignition mod look very easy.

John

Fresh squeezed horseshoes and hand grenades

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I dont have the 6A MSD :(

one more question

anyone know the wiring for the m30 auto TPs?

Look for Jeans M30 swap thread on R3v, he has all the M30 wiring stuff you could ever want ( and I remember him having to figure out the Auto M30 TB for his )

Charlie Mac in Sacramento.

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Updates:

Finally got the 02 sensor to work (pending on accurate Idle), and attempted to Wire in the M30 throttle body... It is not working at all.

According to a few diagrams the wiring for the M30 Throttle body is:

BRN/ORG is GND

BRN/BLK is signal

BRN/BLU is 5v reference

and the Megasquirt harness has

a TPS signal, TPS VREF wires, and obviosuly a ground.

well the M30 throttle body has 6 wires

3 shielded:

orange, Black, and Brown

Undshielded are two tone:

Brn/BLK

Brn/Blue

and solid brown

I wired in the three unshielded wires, because it seemed like more of a match, but I have no I dea if it is correct. I dont think so, because when I went to calibrate the TPS, the Megasquirt computer gave me a value of 95 for when the TPS was closed, and 0 when it was fully open. This was followed by a pop up, min value should be when throttle is closed. So if anyone has a diagram for that I would be greatful!

Attempt to get running:

Otherwise the car wont hold an idle, or fire up at all Wondering if it is because the EDIS is in Limp home mode (10 deg advance), or the m30 Throttle body is too big (for NA at the moment). I dont have an idle adjustment. or the turbo is not on the exhaust manifold.

I finally set up a throttle linkage that works, but doesnt feel too solid, or smooth, but enough to try and open the linkage when trying to fire- her up.

Also my KPA was going down to around 60-70 when cranking, which seemed a bit odd, I re did the adapter plate, and checked the seals, which looked solid, ( 2nd time going over, removing, and resealing.)

I also tried fooling around with the map vs RPM fueling table.

the ran for a second or two when the value was around 40, but then as it was running KPA seemed to rise up one box, to where the value was 50 till the car then dies.

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EDIS is only working in "limp home" mode, which is 10 degrees of advance all the time. You may want to put the stock distributor back into place for tuning the fuel until you get the new MS board.

Seriously, try this. In the end it may not be what you want, but if you're frustrated and ready to throw in the towel (like I was after messing around with megasquirt for a good 1.5 weeks straight), start eliminating problems.

My car absolutely WOULD NOT idle, with a MS1v3.0 and EDIS4 setup. It would kick over, and only stay running by playing with the throttle - and then the O2 sensor reading would be jumping all over the map - pegged at too lean, then a second later pegged at too rich! I thought it was all due to either fuel maps or having a poorly set up ICV, but after running the MS base "starter" fuel map, and sealing off the intake manifold and just adjusting the throttle stop on the TB, it still acted the same. Strangely enough, I was still getting ignition, but the car wasn't acting right.

Reluctantly I put in the old Pertonix distributor and coil, put cyl #1 to TDC, and aligned the rotor with the mark on the distributor, cranked it and BAM - instant 2000RPM idle with no complaints and a perfect AFR.

As I said, this won't fix your problem, but at least for me, I really needed it as I was starting to get really discouraged.

Good luck!

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