Dropping rear subframe...E-brake question

[Turb02]

How do I disconnect the Ebrake cable from the drums in order to completely remove subframe? Ive cut the soft brake lines that go thru the trailing arm but cannot find a disconnect point for the e-brake

Illustrations or feedback very much welcome/appreciated

[BillWilliams]

Lets see. Take the rear wheel and brake drum off.

Remove the the bottom "spring" w shaped metal rod, from the bottom of the brake shoes.

In behind the hub you should see the e-brake cable coming through the back side of the backing plate.

There is a spring, then a "stirrup" type of a deal. That stirrup hooks over a hook on the e-brake lever on the rear trailing shoe. Somehow get the stirrup off of the lever.

[Turb02]

Lets see. Take the rear wheel and brake drum off. You should see the e-brake cable coming through the back side of the backing plate.

There is a spring, then a "stirrup" type of a deal. That stirrup hooks over a hook on the e-brake lever on the rear trailing shoe. Somehow get the stirrup off of the lever.

I was afraid of that!!! what size socket to get the drum nut off? 34mm?

[BLUNT]

Lets see. Take the rear wheel and brake drum off. You should see the e-brake cable coming through the back side of the backing plate.

There is a spring, then a "stirrup" type of a deal. That stirrup hooks over a hook on the e-brake lever on the rear trailing shoe. Somehow get the stirrup off of the lever.

I was afraid of that!!! what size socket to get the drum nut off? 34mm?

you dont need to remove the nut to get the drum off. it may be stubborn but itll come off. back off the adjustment on the shoes before trying to beat it off

[BillWilliams]

Blunt is spot on.

About the adjusters, DO NOT bugger them up. Take whatever precaution you can not to round those two bolt heads off. If you do, you are in for a new set ov backing plates.

Take a hammer and a punch and work your way around the outside or the drum to free it from the shoes.

You may want to give the drum a few spirited taps around the center to help break loose any rust. Yes there will be rust.

[ifayeoh]

please see pic attached, but is this the other side of the brake adjuster bolts, i figure it is but don't know for sure.

thanks

[BillWilliams]

u figure correctly.

If your adjusters are stuck and you can get the drum off, Mike Self recommends soaking them in penetrating oil and using vice grips on the inside of the adjusters to work them back and forth to loosen and free them.

[jgerry2002]

You can pry the shoes off without touching the adjusters. A big pry bar will work on the spring.

Free up the adjusters AFTER you've removed everything.

1) Use a high quality penetrating oil... Wurth Rost off... PB Blaster

2) Use a propane or butane torch and heat up adjusters till they are bright red

3) Use vice grips on the inside and work the adjuster and free it up

Like others have said... DO NOT ROUND OFF the adjustment bolt heads... future adjustments are a big PITA when you do this.

[pkbinplano]

Um, make sure the ebrake is OFF when trying to remove drums. Just a helpful hint LOL

[M3M3]

if you are dropping subframe and don't want to mess with the brake drums, disconnect the cables from the other end. pull cover off handbrake, unscrew the nuts on the ends of the cables and pull the cables out of the car from the bottom.

[Turb02]

Thank you all, I've gotten them off. The adjuster bolts weren't seized but they were tough. After I "beat it" for a while they finally came off. The passanger was a lot easier than the driver side. I used some penetrating oil and that probably made things a lot easier for me. Since I'm not reusing the drums I cut the spring holding the two together and somehow managed to get the cable free from the bottom without completely destroying the drum pads.

Now I just gotta convince the wife to spend some bucks on lee's brakes, front and rear. Too bad the cost of the brakes will take a big chunk of my budget. Gotta pay to play tho, right?