Repairing Rusted Out Right Rear Fender Well

[DUDONLY]

Hello All...

when I purchased my 71 2002 the PO gave me a patch panel for the right rear fender that was from BMW doing a forum search I see that some of you have used them. I was wondering if anyone has every used an epoxy to install it. It seems to fit right over the rusty bits that I will sand and clean up before installing with the epoxy any thoughts welcome.

Thanks, Dudley

[ol'_rusty]

Any pictures? I am not a fan of epoxy to fix rust related issues. I would (as I am currently) cut out the rot, and weld in replacement sheet metal. Then grind, seal, and coat. More time consuming, but it pays to fix it right the first time. But then again, I have never used epoxy in this fashion...maybe someone else can shed some light on it.

[scoyote]

Absolutely----use one of the many 2 part metal panel adhesives out there like SEM eg.----you need very clean edges--and will have to clamp or sheet metal screw for a short set time--then grind the overage off. Now you're only looking at filling and feathering the width of your patch panel. If GM uses similar on frames and Boeing on aircraft----you will be safe with a wheel arch panel or whatever----scoyote

[Mike Self]

1. If you're gonna drive the car in a wet climate/rain or (don't even THINK of it) snow...then weld it in. I did that job on my '69--used the new part as a template after trimming it back a couple of inches, then cut away the old lip and butt welded the new piece to the existing quarter panel. You'll have to do this with a MIG welder--spot it in place first, then fill in between the spots. Cool often with a wet rag to keep the whole quarter panel from buckling, and make sure you get all the pinholes filled. I did not weld the inner housing to the new lip--that's what causes it to rust in the first place. I simply filled in the gap with roofing cement; it's been working fine for 10-12 years (no road salt, of course but I do drive in the rain all the time...it's Ohio) on my '69--not a spot of rust has emerged.

2. If you're in a dry climate, don't plan to drive (much) in the rain etc, you can try the adhesive method. I've not used the stuff, so can't attest to its longevity one way or the other. But if you do go with adhesive, be sure and seal the back side seam so moisture can't get in from behind. Cut away all the old rusty metal and paint the raw edge with something to keep rust from starting there again.

Call me old fashioned, but I know welding will last if done right. And BTW, I'd do the whole lip...rust back up in there is a lot more extensive than it ever looks, and if you only do a small segment, you'll end up doing it twice...ask me how I learned this!

mike

[Bill_Riblett]

What Mike says, plus you are going to find that the inner fender is rusted behind where you see rust on the outside.

[Green2k2]

Absolutely----use one of the many 2 part metal panel adhesives out there like SEM eg.----you need very clean edges--and will have to clamp or sheet metal screw for a short set time--then grind the overage off. Now you're only looking at filling and feathering the width of your patch panel. If GM uses similar on frames and Boeing on aircraft----you will be safe with a wheel arch panel or whatever----scoyote

dymax and evercoat make industrial adhesives as well.

I've used evercoat and like it.

http://www.evercoat.com/productCategory.aspx?cat=41