To buy (or not to buy) a rebuilt head... Advice?

[CutteRug]

Hi all,

My car runs okay, but when I come off the accelerator on a downhill slope, or there's ever any substantial back pressure (like downshifting into those second gear turns, hee hee) I get a LOT of smoky oil smell..

I've been told that my valve guides are going bad. So here's the question.. There's one listed on craigslist for $250..

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/pts/944620869.html

Is that a good price? Is there anyway to check it for being rebuilt or machined *properly*? Is a new head even what I need? Will it still be ridiculously expensive to swap them if I buy this??

Okay, that was more than one question ;-)

Thanks for any input or expertise any of you can shine on this subject.

Adam

[mossyboy6]

That is a good buy. However, I honestly doubt your guides are going bad. The smoke may be eliminated with new seals.

But, your valves are probably in need of a regrind.

[Richard]

$250 is a good deal if all the right work is done.Receipts?????I would be wary....

[3elements]

Is there a reason you don't just have whatever work your current head needs done? I needed valve work done not long ago and got the valve job, a couple of new valves, all new guides and seals and a gasket set for about $530. More expensive clearly, but it was what my head needed, and it was covered by the machine shop if anything wasn't right.

[CutteRug]

I guess I'll try that... It's just that every time I talk to my mechanic, he only seems to be able to talk in numbers like *one thousand* or *two thousand*.. He's a great bimmer mechanic, but has gotten spoiled and no longer relishes the "bargain-seeking" 02 owner.. (like myself)

Didn't think a redone head would be so affordable... (and didn't think I'd ever be referring to prices over $500 as affordable ;-)

Anyway, thanks! I'll ask him about it next time I'm down there.

[TobyB]

I would buy the head, but I just think that way.

It's cheap enough that's it's almost worth the gamble

sight unseen.

Before I paid money, though, I'd measure it (129mm is about stock thickness)

and put a straightedge on both the top and the bottom.

And look at the cam, rockers, etc if included.

Ideally, I like to evaluate heads with the cam loose- if the cam's easy to install

and turns freely, and the thickness is 128.5mm or more, it's almost always

a winner-

if there aren't any cracks... So if it doesn't include a cam, that's

almost better, since you can pop one in and give it a quick spin.

(I've found that a little friction's ok, but if you can't turn the end flange by

hand, then it might be best to try again somewhere else)

And around here, new guides and a valve job on a loose head tends to run in

the $6-700 category.

t

[CutteRug]

Excellent! Lol...

It'd be great if everyone said completely contradicting things, so I can end up even MORE confused..

Just razzin. Thanks again guys. In life there is rarely a simple answer or consensus.

Cheers,

Adam

[3elements]

If you think we're contradictory now, ask about wheels sometime. Or trim strips....

[mbaze]

Who's your BMW mechanic, if you don't mind saying?

[CutteRug]

Bill Arnold in San Rafael... (and I may have exaggerated a bit on the multi-thousand dollar quotes.. But he's not cheap)

Cheers,

Adam

[2002john]

Does not specify if 121 or e12 head, need same type as one you have. Compression will different

[mbaze]

I emailed the guy. Nice guy, but he's not a DIYer, so he doesn't know anything about the head, including whether it has a cam or not. He has no receipts of the work done.

[TobyB]

oog.

Me being me, I'd go look at it and haggle, but if you really

don't know what you're looking AT, walking away isn't a mistake.

There are a lot of things that could be wrong that would leave you

with a doorstop instead of a head.

t