engine and drivetrain stalling after autocross runs, why?

[KFunk]

It's a stock, tired motor with dual 40 DCOEs, Carter rotary electric fuel pump, jetting seems OK, fuel level in bowls set properly last i checked. stock points, timing well advanced, etc.

OK, this often happens to me. After I get done with an AX run, I brake after the finish, and stop to get the time slip. After I stop, the engine stalls and dies. It often doesn't want to start very easy. It acts like its flooded. Today when it did it, after my 6th run, I couldn't get it started at all. I had to push it off and waited a little while, cranked it for a while, and then got it fired up.

Otherwise, it runs fine day in and day out. Never any problems in street use, other than a rough idle due to sloppy synching.

Any ideas of a reason for causing this, in only this particular situation? It has something to do with going from really heavy demand and rapid throttle changes and cornering, followed by rapid deceleration and idling.

If I remember to rev it a little while waiting for my time slip, it'll keep going. But if I forget, it'll die some times. Not always, but often enough to be annoying and embarrassing.

Thanks!

Kevin

[Harv]

I had this problem with my 145 and dual 40's.

Turned out to be too much fuel pressure and incorrect float setting.

John

[norm]

Maybe your brake master is leaking into your booster and then the fluid is being sucked in to the motor.

Norm

[KFunk]

I replaced the master cylinder a couple years back, so it should be fine. I'm not losing any brake fluid at all.

I'll check the needle valves and fuel level again. Any idea what a worn needle valve looks like? I'm hesitant to throw on a regulator, as I don't like the added hassle. If I have to, I'll just have to remember to keep the revs up and gently bring them down as I head to the time-slip person.

[Harv]

Fuel psi HAS to be 3 to 3.5psi. Most electric fuel pumps sold here in the states run around 5psi.

John