the m20s, removable nose, rack steering and pedal box blog

[instructorbill]

Okay fine, I'm jumping in-- I was planning on doing the blog thing a little sooner, but I wasn't sure of the direction that the swap was going to take.

In it's most current state. It'll be another m20. The nose needed to be replaced, so it is getting a customized-removable nose.

The nose is off

The brake booster and pedal box have been axed (permanantly, well maybe, we'll see-- I might do master on box)

The fresh air box has been removed (permanantly)

Heater box removed (permanantly)

Steering box removed (permanantly)

The Customized e21 rack is mostly installed. Those who want to do one-- go for it if you have any fabrication skills at all, it's a snap. You will need the e21 rack complete, and the steering column (column only).

here's some help for the squeemish (first with the steering column)

I'm going boosterless, so I have no idea if my recipe will work for your car.

remove the 02 steering column and strip down to tube.

remove steering box, tierods, idler arm, and drag link

place 02 steering clolumn beside the 320i rack, transfer holes for steering lock onto e21 rack

Remove both steering shafts from the columns and place them side by side... you will notice that the steering lock channels are located differently.

Transfer the location of the 02 rack to the e21 rack. With a dremmel, sawzall, or hacksaw cut the weld on the steering lock channel on the e21 rack. once the channel is free grind the weld flush with the steering shaft.

remove the channel from the shaft, flop 180 degrees and re-insert. Line the channel up with the marks transferred from the 02 shaft. The channel ended up being at 5-6 inches on mine with the splines perfectly matched.

Re weld channel.

Further down the shaft cut a two and five eighths inch section out of the steering shaft. get a thickwall tube to slide over the shaft-- I went with about a six inch piece with a continuous channel down it's length

Reweld, penetration is key. Tack first, check for runout and then weld. Welds must be good, or pay for a good weldor to do it for you, you wouldn't want this bugger coming free

reweld the ends and the length of the shaft splice.

Shorten the steering column tube from the bottom end 2 5/8 inches and de-burr

Remove the extra piece from the bottom bracket on the e21 colunm where the turn signal and dimmer mount-- it gets in the way.

Reassemble the steering column and install

I have not yet worked out the horn contact-- shouldn't put up much of a fight.

Let me know if you guys want more.

[Guest Anonymous]

great info Bill. Thanks. Sounds easier than what I had been thinking about doing to use the 2002 steering shaft/column.

[instructorbill]

with the column assembled and installed-- a few quick measurements

the steering lock housing is 3 1/8 inches from the back of the signal/dimmer bracket

in the engine compartment... the steering column tube/bearing sticks out the 02 firewall bracket about 1/2 inch

Time to make a rack bracket

I took a sheet of metal 10guage slightly larger in width than the bracket on the rack itself and about 12 inches deep and riveted (just temporarily) to the underside of the subframe.

I then traced the front of the subframe onto the sheet and placed the rack onto the back of the sheet. Bailing wire helps with mock-up

spacing for me was 7 1/8 from rack body to frame rail on both sides and two inches from rear of subframe to rack bracket (bent down tab.)

Trace the rack bracket onto the sheet. Drill two subframe bracket holes through the existing rack bracket holes( i did two pilot holes, and drilled the larger ones after removing it)

Drill out rivets and cut out the bottom plate. I added an additional inch to the traced profile for bolt holes before cutting. Massaged with a bench grinder, deburred and re-riveted back to the subframe already cleaned and prepped for welding.

Weld bottom plate to subframe accross leading edge, tack rear if you'd like, bolt or whatever.

Make two top brackets or one large one to go between the subframe and the rack bolts that go through the rack bracket. Prep top of subframe for welds install, c clamp down and weld

Clean, prime and paint welds/brackets

The dreaded steering linkage-- the only tough, time consuming task.

with the rack installed, and the steering column in, guestimate the total length... okay don't guestimate (mine is 10.25 inches from the flex coupler to the bottom crotch of the U joint before it makes a turn.

I cut the steering coupler in half and spliced in some steering column remnants and sleeved it like the shaft in the first entry in the blog. DONT WELD YET.

Install it, make sure everything is cool, everything bolts up, no binding no issues at all Tack weld, check for runout-- correct if necessary and then weld it all up.

With any luck, I'll get some information about how much to shorten the steering arms on the bottom of the struts and I'll modify those and complete the install tomorrow-- then I suppose I can take a wag at setting the toe.

EDIT the only information I can find on the steering arm length is 130mm

DOES ANYBODY KNOW IF THIS IS FROM BALL JOINT HOLE CENTERLINE TO TIE ROD END CENTERLINE?

[canadamatt]

Nice writeup, good to see you back in a 02m20 Bill!

Matt

[instructorbill]

Finished moving the alternator to the passenger side underneath the exhaust manifold and next to the oil filter. I've not yet determined if this postition will work but the engine will be ready to slide into place in just a few days and I'll check fitment then.

Today, I fininshed the front mounting plate, rear mounts and outflow plate for the supercharger. Looks like the M50 crank pulley is going to work out just fine. Tomorrow, I plan to go back to Pick n Pull to find an idler/tensioner that will fit the bill. All that is left is the intake plate, intake pipe with a relocated throttle body, outflow pipe, intercooler (both selection and mounting) and the charge pipe with bypass valve and MAP sensor. Not too much to do there, but will have to shop ebay for a piping kit.

Pics to come.

[instructorbill]

Pulled a nice 5 speed out of a 91 318is today from Pick N Pull in Windsor. It got too hot, otherwise I would have got the tensioner and pulley I needed as well as coil packs, and an ignitor for my Megasquirt setup.

Yeah, I know I should have waited for half price day-- tomorrow. But I never see any 318is there-- so I had to do it. No telling if it'd be there tomorrow.

So, I'll be running an electronic speedo, or a GPS Speedo. Price was right anyhow at $124 out the door!

[tjones02]

Sorry I missed ya' at PnP Winsor... I was there until about 2:30... Saw the nice 318is w/ 157K on it and thought about trying to make some money on the Motor but was to lazy to do it.... Thanks for makin' it easier since the tranny is out now ;b.... Naw, I' have to much on my pallet as it is.

I did score a set of '94 540i calipers to do a big brake thingy on my 5spd 528e though for $12.98 ea.... and got the center caps off that 318is for $1.24 ea.

Still looking for another E34 or E32 for one more front caliper...

[instructorbill]

took several days of fabrication but it's finally done.

I hope this doesn't throw belts, but I've seen worse work hold up under punishment

I've got the alternator moved to the passenger side running on a v-belt and the supercharger is using a 5 rib belt, an M50 crank pulley, and modified M50 idler pulley adapted to a Subaru EJ25 Alternator/Airconditioner tensioner.

Custom block/supercharger face mount

Looks stock.

[instructorbill]

I'm really attacking this project on two fronts at the moment

Powerplant:

Install 42lb injectors, reinstall fuel rail, mount intercooler, mount bypass valve (buy it first) and E36 throttle body and Idle air control valve.

Engine Compartment:

Brake pedal assembly/pedal box-- Plan is to remote the clutch master up and back 2 inches and to mount two brake masters to the pedal box (I think they'll be tilton units-- but I'm not sure of the sizes yet) Additionally, I need to work out the adaptation of the bubble flares to AN3.

MUST PAINT ENGINE COMPARTMENT NEXT

[evanc]

Bill!

How goes it? Well, from the looks of it you are making some awesome progress. The bracket for the super charger looks good. How'd ya come up with the design for that? Dude, seriously you never cease to amaze me with your engineering talents.

Id love to see some more photos if you have any. So last week I was at the bar and met some of my new friends and it turns out that one of the guys brother is restoring 3 2002s. Apparently his shop is about 10km from the center of town. I'll post some photos after I go over to see his shop.

Corb will be super interested to see what you are doing. He supposedly will have his FD finished by the 27th of September for 7 Stock in Orange County. Maybe you can figure a way to put an LS7 motor in an 02.

I'll have a bier for ya.

Keep the posts coming.

I'm really attacking this project on two fronts at the moment

Powerplant:

Install 42lb injectors, reinstall fuel rail, mount intercooler, mount bypass valve (buy it first) and E36 throttle body and Idle air control valve.

Engine Compartment:

Brake pedal assembly/pedal box-- Plan is to remote the clutch master up and back 2 inches and to mount two brake masters to the pedal box (I think they'll be tilton units-- but I'm not sure of the sizes yet) Additionally, I need to work out the adaptation of the bubble flares to AN3.

MUST PAINT ENGINE COMPARTMENT NEXT

[instructorbill]

. " The bracket for the super charger looks good. How'd ya come up with the design for that? "

I cheated with wood first. I mocked up the bracket with 1/4 inch plywood and worked out the profile and mounting bosses. Working with wood flows so much faster that a concept can be carried out to completion in just a few minutes. In metal, for instance, the tensioner adapter took several hours, whereas when done in wood,for proof of concept, it only took about 10 minutes.

"So last week I was at the bar and met some of my new friends and it turns out that one of the guys brother is restoring 3 2002s. Apparently his shop is about 10km from the center of town. I'll post some photos after I go over to see his shop."

--Cool! Mail me some pics!

"I'll have a bier for ya."

Have a couple while you're at it

[instructorbill]

I'm trying to completely sort out the brakes before the engine goes in.

Just did the bulk of a rear disk brake conversion, I plan to change the front e21 single line calipers with 240 units that I've got and that ought to do for my braking needs at the business end.

I'm still working out the pedal box and master setup.

It may be easier to go with a tilton overhung setup but I've not given up on the idea of a reworked stock box.

the rear disks were 84 scirocco front rotors, 93 audi a4 rear calipers, and a custom spacer 3/8 inch thick. I may be making more-- easy as hell. If I don't I'll keep the wood version around for people to come copy. If I had a running 02 I'd have put the damn thing up in the air run the engine to turn the hubs, used a jack stand as a tool rest and "lathe turned" the hubs down, but the bench grinder is how I had to do it... a real exercise in patience.

Brake lines still need to be worked out. I'm just going to buy a metric line, cut one end off and sae double flare/couple into the stock line. Bleeding brakes will suck, but what the heck. It'll look clean and get the job done.

[instructorbill]

I used 1984 scirocco front disks, 93 Audi A4 rear calipers, a stock 02 hard line like you'd use on a front brake caliper to strut tube a single bubble to bubble flare coupler and a custom fabbed bracket

Not sure about how I'll do the ebrake cable--, I'll probably make a new stationary bracket for the sleeve and use the stock 02 end.

[blue7500]

I think this is my favorite project to follow now. Lots of creativity being put into play here! Speaking of creating things... Do you have a pattern or measurements on how to make the rear disc brake brackets?

[instructorbill]

You can have the pattern, I just don't have a digital copy.