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  1. I haven't been following your thread (or the faq for that matter) but I always like to see a good m20 swap! If I could offer some advice, I would say since you are in the engine bay cuttin and grindin anyways, I would recommend you knock back the trans tunnel/firewall transition a bit, as well as that bump on the pass side (the latter maybe not being so important in your case). That extra little bit of room in the tunnel/firewall area makes it 100000 times easier to take the m20/trans combo in and out. I would consider that a must-do m20 mod. Actually if I were doing it again I would take out the stock trans tunnel completely and rebuild it higher/wider, but thats a whole different ball game. see pics 2/3 down http://www.bmwpower.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7312&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=105 Good luck on the swap, you won't regret it! Matt
  2. I had the same thing with VR on my m20. went to oem and problem solved. I have ARP headstuds so re-usable. Some guys have tightened up stretch bolts with varying sucess but they aren't designed for that so results may vary.
  3. just a heads up, most guys just use a Lokar (or the summit branded 'lokar') cable these days.... simple connection at the TB. matt
  4. On the FI front, any reason you don't want to do a m20 with stock ECU (as opposed to aftermarket ie megasquirt) I've been through it all, and the most I drove my 02 was when it has a chipped m20 in it. It was a blast and was dead simple. The more gadgets and mods you have, the more of a pain in the ass it becomes. I'm a geek and addicted to modding (anything) but there is always a price to pay. Just something to think about. Matt www.tinyurl.com/02m20/
  5. Man, these days my time is worth more than my money it seems...this makes it hard to justify building a subframe myself when I can just slap down the credit card. Especially in the frozen north where nice summer driving days are at a premium. Nice job guys. I may toss my 'e30 subframe project parts' in the garbage and give you a shout Matt
  6. Not sure if I would try a fender roller on fiberglass.. still haven't made it back to my shop, but I will be there saturday and/or sunday, so should have shipping info by end of weekend.
  7. Yes I'm using that AFCO. Fits fine, assuming you gutted the front. I have somepics somewhere on www.tinyurl.com/02m20/ . Cooling could be a bit better, at idle it will climb if temps are up (without the rad fan on). e36 one may be worth checking out if its higher capacity. Biggest issue IMHO with cooling on m20 swaps is the height of the rad itself. Typically it will sit fairly high up, which makes bleeding a bit of a pain. Next time I have my engine out, I'm probably going to knock out the factory front lower brace between the framerails and rebuild it with a notch, so I can sink the rad down a couple inches. and when did they get so pricey? I could have sworn I paid around $200 for mine. hth Matt
  8. Sorry guys, haven't had a chance to get them boxed and shipping quotes yet. big rain here the other day and my roof seems to have a leak, as evidenced by the 2 gallons of water that poured out of my kitchen ceiling . It will take me a couple of days to get to my shop (an hour away) and make a box and measure it for shipping costs. i'll send out an email to all interested parties once I have that. sorry for the delay.
  9. To those who emailed me about shipping, I'll email you back once I get a quote (or package size/weight)...in order of interest of course...
  10. am I looking at a different front bumper than everyone else? That thing is completely twisted. Its scrap.
  11. FS: Set of 02 fiberglass fenders. I bought these years ago and never used them. I'm not sure who the manufacturer is (these are not dapbmw units). I'm guessing these were made in the 80's. I spent 15 minutes (literally) prepping the blue one with my orbital body sander and sprayed it to see how the color would look on my car. It was in the same shape as the other one before that..basically it shouldn’t be much work even with hand tools. You can see the various patches/fiberglass work that they have had. They have metal flanges for the hood hinge. They look to be a really good copy of originals. However like I said, they need a little bit of work, don’t expect to spray them as is and use them (unless its for a race car, in that case just bolt on and cover with stickers  ) Located in Canada.. I will box them up in the next couple of days and they should be ready to go by the weekend. Not sure what shipping would be as they are a bit bulky, but obviously quite light. $200USD + shipping, I take paypal. email matt at disimilar.com Matt
  12. If I don't happen to have a mahle on hand (dealer is an hour and a half away from my shop), I just go to napa and get their 'Napa Gold' filter which is made by WIX. "the interweb and bobistheoilguy.com says" its one of the best... take that for what its worth. The interweb also seems to hate most Frams... I have had bad experience in numerous vehicles as well. Matt '72 02/m20turbo http://www.tinyurl.com/02m20 https://www.dropbox.com/referrals/NTY5NTgxOTI5
  13. wow, I think it took me 4 hours just to mask off my car for paint! looks great. Matt '72 02/m20turbo http://www.tinyurl.com/02m20 https://www.dropbox.com/referrals/NTY5NTgxOTI5
  14. Nice. Thats the coolest thing I have heard all day. Days not over yet but I'm pretty sure you'll take top honors.
  15. Thanks guys. Summit has some senders that I could make work, 70-5, 75-10, etc. I asked Dakotadigital for some magic but they don't currently offer anything (great guys btw). Pat..I'll look into LM334 , thanks! Just a side note, I just assumed someone would offer a 'blackbox' that can mate different gauges and senders. I would think they would sell a ton of them. Most guys bite the bullet and buy a $50 gauge or a $100 sender.. if someone offered a $40 solution, they would probably sell a ton. Matt
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