engine and drivetrain Quick Questions About Head Install

[justinevert]

OK, Let me get this straight about a few questions on installing my rebuilt head on the engine.

How often should I recalibrate my torque wrenches, my set is only 2 years old, but I want to make sure they are still acurate before moving forward.

On the exhuast stud holes, is the front top hole go all the way through or do all of the top ones? LockTite Red on the short end of the stud and threaded all the way in as long it does not touch the springs, right?

What kind of lube do you put on valve train and distributor gear?

On a Schrick 292 cam, what is the valve lash gap, .006 or .008?

What size wrench and tools needed for valve adjustment?

When doing the valve adjustment, do I turn the cam to where both intake and exhaust are both close to do the adjustment?

Do not put any gasket sealer on the head gasket, right?

When installing the head make sure that lower end is set up for cylinder #1 to be at TDC, right?

Is there anything "tricks of the trade" that I should consider when I do this?

Your help is tremendous in this, I could not have done this without you guys.

Justin

'75 02 "Lola"

[gwb72tii]

OK, Let me get this straight about a few questions on installing my rebuilt head on the engine.

How often should I recalibrate my torque wrenches, my set is only 2 years old, but I want to make sure they are still acurate before moving forward.

with head bolts it is not necessary, unless your torque wrench is damaged. a 2yr old wrench should be ok.

On the exhuast stud holes, is the front top hole go all the way through or do all of the top ones? LockTite Red on the short end of the stud and threaded all the way in as long it does not touch the springs, right?

you want to thread the studs to where they are just barely beyound flush with the inside face of the casting. make sure the threaded hole is clean and dry before using loctite.

What kind of lube do you put on valve train and distributor gear?

for a rebulid i have always used regular motor oil prior to start up.

On a Schrick 292 cam, what is the valve lash gap, .006 or .008?

What size wrench and tools needed for valve adjustment?

10mm, and a bent piece of rod to be able to rotate the adjustment cam on the rocker.

When doing the valve adjustment, do I turn the cam to where both intake and exhaust are both close to do the adjustment?

yes, where both are closed and centered looking down on them from the centerline of the cam.

Do not put any gasket sealer on the head gasket, right?

yes sir

When installing the head make sure that lower end is set up for cylinder #1 to be at TDC, right?

yes, and make sure the cam is on TDC as well for no.1 cylinder. refer to your manual for the centering mark on the cam gear.

Is there anything "tricks of the trade" that I should consider when I do this?

no tricks, just follow the torqueing procedure exactlyper your manual.

Your help is tremendous in this, I could not have done this without you guys.

Justin

'75 02 "Lola"

[Guest Anonymous]

OK, Let me get this straight about a few questions on installing my rebuilt head on the engine.

How often should I recalibrate my torque wrenches, my set is only 2 years old, but I want to make sure they are still acurate before moving forward.

with head bolts it is not necessary, unless your torque wrench is damaged. a 2yr old wrench should be ok. OK, A two year old beam type should be okay. Click type wrenches are notorious for being inaccurate (2c's). You can always calibrate the wrench against a beam type.

On the exhuast stud holes, is the front top hole go all the way through or do all of the top ones? LockTite Red on the short end of the stud and threaded all the way in as long it does not touch the springs, right?

you want to thread the studs to where they are just barely beyound flush with the inside face of the casting. make sure the threaded hole is clean and dry before using loctite.

What kind of lube do you put on valve train and distributor gear?

for a rebulid i have always used regular motor oil prior to start up. What kind would you expect? Ok, For new parts, engine assembly lube is designed specifically for that purpose. Used parts, engine oil would seem appropriate

On a Schrick 292 cam, what is the valve lash gap, .006 or .008? Unknown. OK, Your figures are for a stock cam cold. What does Schrick advise?

What size wrench and tools needed for valve adjustment?

10mm, and a bent piece of rod to be able to rotate the adjustment cam on the rocker. OK, You have a manual or you should have one. This should be one question you could have easily answered on your own.

When doing the valve adjustment, do I turn the cam to where both intake and exhaust are both close to do the adjustment?

yes, where both are closed and centered looking down on them from the centerline of the cam. OK, this is a basic question and even the owners manual usually found in the glove box covers this. So does the FAQ on this board as have many posts. The valves must be closed to perform an adjustment. The cam lobe is typically pointing directly away from the top of the valve.

Do not put any gasket sealer on the head gasket, right?

yes sir Except for the area joining the front timing case cover. As noted in just about every manual. Also depends upon the state of head and block. If not machined properly, head gasket may leak or may leak without some adhesive. It is typically not advised.

When installing the head make sure that lower end is set up for cylinder #1 to be at TDC, right?

yes, and make sure the cam is on TDC as well for no.1 cylinder. refer to your manual for the centering mark on the cam gear.

Is {ARE} there anything "tricks of the trade" that I should consider when I do this? no tricks, just follow the torqueing procedure exactlyper your manual. Learn by doing. You will develop your own tricks or shortcuts. What may work for some does not necessarily work for all.

Your help is tremendous in this, I could not have done this without you guys.

Justin

'75 02 "Lola"

[jgerock]

I hope your upper timing cover was machined if your head was surfaced milled. If not, you will certainly leak oil at the front of the engine.

The "blue book" manual has a procedure for installing the upper timing cover bolts.

If you haven't already done so, purchase a new set of head bolts and complete upper gasket set.

Clean all the old oil sitting inside the head bolt cavities. If you don't get it out, you will not tighten the bolts properly to the block.

I'm getting ready to do the exact same thing on my engine (head checked out OK though).

[justinevert]

Yep, I have the cam gear cover plate machined, new set of head bolts, complete gasket set, studs and bolting hardware for the front and rear covers.

Head bolt holes were thoroghly cleaned as well.

I can not seem to find anything on Shrick regarding the gap, from what I have read, .006 is too tight, .008 MAYBE a bit loose, some have set it at .007.

Would it be easier to set the lash while the head is off the block or on it?

[jgerock]

Here is the info straight from the Schrick website:

Schrick cams.pdf

[pkbinplano]

what brand head gasket are you using ?

[Guest Anonymous]

Would it be easier to set the lash while the head is off the block or on it?

Common sense would suggest the answer is yes. I would check it after a period of run in and heat cycling though.

[Guest Anonymous]

OFF

Doesn't make any difference. What ever is easier for you.

[justinevert]

THanks for the info on valve lash.

I am using the Cometic (sp) head gasket, the one that you can use again after pulling the head.

Justin