engine and drivetrain fitting piston rings and pistons into a block

[chuncomunco]

anyone have good suggestions on fitting piston rings and pistons into the block? i'm pretty new to engine rebuilding so if i need additional tools for this project please tell me.

pistons: maxsil +1.2mm E12 pistons

piston rings: hastings (not sure if they were pre-gapped)

purchased from: bavauto.com

[Lee]

Hi buddy.

Building a motor is always a nice project.

My first suggestion would be to start by buying at least the Haynes book on 2002s. Read it as bedtime litterature. It is $15 only. Then, after reading it, if you have questions, I am sure everyone will want to give you a hand.

[chuncomunco]

the block has already been bored, honed and squared. so i'm planning on fitting them on this weekend and the books i have are pretty vague. lol.

[skipsfcr]

You need a piston ring compressor (Not to insult your intelligence). There should be a sheet included with the piston rings demonstrating the proper orientation of the ring gaps as well as which side is "UP" for the top and second rings. Usually compression rings are marked by a tiny little "dot" indentation for the side facing up. But this can vary depending on manufacturer. If you've got a decent repair manual it should illustrate the actual piston installation process pretty thoroughly.

[boxy02]

Not trying to be an ass, but if you are planning on reassembling your motor this weekend and you don't know that fitting pistons/rings into a block requires a piston ring compressor...you might want to hold off until you at least read the procedures for motor reassembly. If your book of choice is vague on motor reassembly, you might want to purchase another more informative, step-by-step manual.

[Guest Anonymous]

the rings should come with instructions in terms of gap sizes etc. Typically you need to gap the rings yourself, and it is dependant on bore size (certain amount of gap per inch of bore) and intended use.

First you needs to clean the block. Do a search online lots of info.

Then you need to place top and middle rings in bore without a piston and use the piston upside down to square the ring in the bore. You then use a feeler gauge to measure, file and re-measure the bore until you get it into the acceptable range.

Do a search online. Loads of info.

[boxy02]

You then use a feeler gauge to measure, file and re-measure the bore until you get it into the acceptable range.

actually, you don't remeasure the bore, you remeasure the GAP of the ring in the bore...making sure it is square in the bore each time.

[dubois]

My initial reaction, is that you should have an idea of what tools are required before embarking on a delicate project. It is not difficult, but you need to be precise and methodical, ie follow strict procedures, with adequate tools, gages, torque wrench etc. If you spent $100 bucks, on not one but at least 3 books, or go to your local library, it will be a wise investment. There are generic books that are useful, because of better pictures, but the Haynes manual is definetely a must.

[SteveJ]

Well, you are at the right place to get advice. Don't be in a rush. Since engine building is new to you, take your time and triple check everything. If possible, find another set of eyes to help check over your work.

Fortunately, most of the specialty tools are inexpensive: ring compressor, cylinder hone, etc... The most expensive will be a torque wrench. Don't go uber cheap on this. get the best you can afford, at least a Sears Craftsman. If you think those are pricey, just flag down your local Snap-On truck. Also, for engine assembly, get a small tub of Red Line engine assembly lube.

Get a hold of as many books as you can and start reading. You will start to see the same recurring theme. It ain't rocket science, but you do need to take your time and be armed with some basic knowledge. There are always tips and tricks to be learned from those that have done this before. Since I only do these projects once in a great while, I always hit the books and ask questions before I get into it.

[meyekel]

it will keep the edges of the rings square when test fitting them into the cyliders. you can get them at summit racing. go slow when filing too as the middle ring is quite a bot softer than the top ring. trust me, i know.

Mike

[meyekel]

it will keep the edges of the rings square when test fitting them into the cyliders. you can get them at summit racing. go slow when filing too as the middle ring is quite a bot softer than the top ring. trust me, i know.

Mike

[winstontj]

anyone have good suggestions on fitting piston rings and pistons into the block? i'm pretty new to engine rebuilding so if i need additional tools for this project please tell me.

pistons: maxsil +1.2mm E12 pistons

piston rings: hastings (not sure if they were pre-gapped)

purchased from: bavauto.com

Best of luck and don't let anyone here discourage you. I did my first motor rebuild when I was 14 and had even less of a clue than you. I went to Pep Boys and bought a cylinder hone attempting to bore my 20V Audi motor out about 1mm per cylinder. I used a hand drill and a cylinder hone - not kidding! After three days of hacking up the block my father footed the $600 bill at the machine shop and chalked it up to a learning experience.... lol...

Anthony's instructions are spot on (except swap bore with gap). The key to building a motor is patience and understanding. If you are doing your first build it's OK to use the plastigauge for the bearings and go with it - just buy the Haynes manual and go with it. Use a torque wrench on EVERYTHING, replace connecting rod bolts, head bolts, studs, main bearing bolts and make sure your oil pump is shimmed properly. Again the key is keep it slow and methodical. Buy a tube of Moly grease as others suggested to pre-lube bearings, rings, etc. Take extra care cleaning gaskets around the oil pan, front and especially rear main seals and take care with the installation of front and rear seals.

A ring compressor is just a piece of thin sheet metal that wraps around the piston and locks into place. it squeezes the rings tight into the piston so it can slide in without breaking anything. One can be had a Sears or many other parts stores for under $20. REPLACE YOUR HEAD BOLTS - they are not re-usable. Clean your gasket mating surfaces. Do not use anything between the clean metal surfaces of the head and the head gaskets or block and head gasket.

Also another question - did you drop off your timing covers (both upper and lower) with the machine shop? If not don't go any further. They need to be machined with the head/block so they are even. If not you will get an ugly annoying PITA leak right away behind your alternator. I'm not kidding and others will back it up - this is one that you'd be best to put the project off till they are machined properly. If you had the head and block resurfaced take them back with the covers.

Best of luck and go with it!!! (I used silicone RTV sealant between the head gasket and the head/block my first time - motor ran and still runs though)

*** For a cheap-o spring compressor you can use aluminum flashing and a bungee cord. Wrap it around the piston tight! Key is to compress the rings inside the grooves. Use a wood block or shove a rag between the piston and the end of a hammer. then GENTLY tap the piston into the cylinder. Mind your connecting rod bolts because if you're 90 degrees off you could be tapping your connecting rod studs into a rod bearing journal - NOT GOOD.

Again best of luck!!!

[Guest Anonymous]

Yep you are correct, I messed up, use the feeler gauge to re-measure the gap (of the rin in the bore.

I agree with Winston, go for it, do your homework and have fun.

http://www.fast351.com/enginerebuild/index3.htm