Thoughts on rattlecan painting to get through the winter.

[andrewro]

As soon as my gear oil arrives (tomorrow, they tell me), I'll be back on the road. I'm having some of the metal brake lines replaced at a shop using my parts, and hopefully that's going to have me ready for the Winter.

I am planning to paint it at a friend's shop next Spring - I'll go over it and do any needed prep, prime, and shoot it with Kirker Mack Orange. It does not need to be perfect, as it's a driver and I'll need to keep it on the road.

In the mean time, I've noticed the grey primer from the P.O.'s prep work is going to soak up grease, moisture, and whatever else. I can see where leaves have rested on it for a few days. I had hoped to paint this car before Winter, but that didn't work out. I have searched and read some posts from people who have done this. In my particular situation, I'd like to sand or grind out some small surface rust spots, prime them, and paint the car cheaply, just to get a coat of paint over the primer. I'd probably just try to find a flat black or grey. I think we will still have a warm enough afternoon here in Georgia from time to time, so that's not a concern.

Any advice or opinions, pro or con? Any ideas on specific paints to use? Anything that would come back to haunt me when I go to paint for real in the Spring?

Thanks,

Andrew

[DukeRimmer]

Use gloss (sheds water and oil) not flat (absorbs same). Careful not to damage good (expensive) trim parts while preping.

[dang]

You don't need to worry about rattle can paint causing any problems later. It goes on thin and will sand off very easily. 8-)

Dan

[Mike Self]

two thoughts--

1. knock loose the surface rust on the small spots you describe, then treat with "Extend" or another rust inhibitor. I field tested that stuff on my old rusty Datsun pickup truck and found it would keep the treated spot from rusting for about six months worth of Ohio winter without top coating with paint (as recommended on the bottle). And before you paint in the spring you'll grind these spots down anyway.

2. knock loose the surface rust and squirt some Rustoleum "damp proof red primer" or similar stuff from Krylon. That should get you through a Georgia winter with no further rust.

I used both on my '69 when I was in the throes of evening bodywork classes at the local vocational school, driving the car back and forth to class and work. Kept bare metal from rusting until I could get final paint on the spot.

Good luck

mike

[SteveJ]

I did a $7 paint job on my blue beater.

I started to mask off all the trim, but grew tired of the work so I just sprayed the damn thing and cleaned it up with thinner when I was done.

Funniest story was a few months later, some kid at a gas station says, "You know, rubbing compound would bring back that color." I tell him, "Yeah, right back to the tan color underneath. This was a rattlecan job."