Wire insulation chafing. More Protection Required?.

[Dudeland]

1 minute ago, jimk said:

If your concern is about sensors, they are grounded to the ECU and the ECU should be grounded directly to the battery via a dedicated ground wire with no other loads grounded to it.

I don't have a ground lead to the battery, ground path is thru the body steel for everything.

If memory serves you are running a Haltech 1500 elite, correct?  The part about a dedicated line I have not heard before. So you are saying that running a dedicated ground for the car ecu , vs a good ground is a better choice no?

 

Part of the reason of running the ground is that it will allow me not to have to rework a bunch of stuff up front, so I could emulate a connection and theoretically if I just connect it to where the braided cable is, I should be ok. 

 

I have put in a "Ok" DIY/shade tree fusebox in the back of the car.   I have a new one that will consolidate the mirad of relays for different things into an organised single box that can be labeled properly.

 

I also have a tiny 3 blade fuse panel that I have my Holly hooked to. I will be replacing that with one that snuggles perfectly in front of the existing relay factory mount. This box will eventually hold all the extra relays I have installed for A/C and fans & horns .  In, fact I am doing a bracket up that you can 3d print a mount for this one I found. It almost looks factory. 

 

Both these panels were out of convienece as the garage I was working in was shared, and I just needed to get something working. 

 

I can make changes to the wiring really easily.  I am more concerned about the mounting of stuff.  If I am pre-building the mounts for the MS3 and test fitting that in place.  Also I have some track focused gear that needs to allocated a future home.  I need to route the cables,so that I know what space I really have to play with.  I am also trying to shoe horn in the Fire Suppression system which needs to take up real estate on the transmission tunnel.   

 

If the big ground is not required, I can always remove it,  I am not sure it will hurt anything, and it essentially follows the same path to the starter as the positive does, so it isn't much more work to do so. 

 

I am sure that there will be more questions and modifications, but the basic pattern will be worked out.   I will dig more into the dedicated ground for the ECU as well as taking my sensors out and having a look to see if any of them are one wire.   It has been at least two years since I have done an inventory. 

 

Regards

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Dudeland]

58 minutes ago, calw said:

Clear hose for sure...

 

Understand that plastic zip ties are not a forever permanent thing.  Black ties are generally UV resistant, but you're inside the car so that's probably a moot point.  All will eventually crack and fall apart.  US name brands from an electric supply house tend to last longer than those from over there.

 

Inside, plastic may even take long enough for this whole topic to be moot.  But, you can get ties made entirely from stainless steel.  They won't do the smallest diameter that plastic ties will, and tightening them and cutting off the excess in tight quarters can be frustrating.  But their longevity won't be questioned.

I have my Boy Scout badge for "Shredded Hands with metal zip ties".  I have used them when I wrapped the exhaust with insulation to protect my fuel pump. 

 

The metal zip ties are a bit of a pain, but not terrible..   I am going to have to cut off the ones I use today in the next year or so, as a 6 speed swap will mean that the transmission tunnel will get modified or replaced.  Perhaps I will use them after the transmission is in. 

 

Thanks for the tip. 

 

Regards

 

 

 

[jimk]

7 minutes ago, Dudeland said:

So you are saying that running a dedicated ground for the car ecu , vs a good ground is a better choice no?

 

That's what the claim is but I haven't experienced any issues.  Sensor grounds are connected to a dedicated sensor ground to the ECU.   The ECU is then grounded to the car or battery.  If sensor grounds are connected to any other ground that carries high amp loads, the sensor readings are influenced by the voltage drop in that common ground conductor.  (Ground wires carry the same amps as the + supply wire)

[Dudeland]

Just now, jimk said:

That's what the claim is but I haven't experienced any issues.  Sensor grounds are connected to a dedicated sensor ground to the ECU.   The ECU is then grounded to the car or battery.  If sensor grounds are connected to any other ground that carries high amp loads, the sensor readings are influenced by the voltage drop in that common ground conductor.  (Ground wires carry the same amps as the + supply wire)

Yep that is what I have read as well.   I have to check my harness as I am unsure if the ECU itself provides the ground, or if I am to ground the sensors to the same place that the ECU gets it's ground. 

 

The article below is representative of this same conversation we are having. The version of MS3 that this person is using has multiple grounds, and all grounds are not completed through this person's ECU.   The folks here are saying that all sensors need to be grounded to the block.. and on it goes. 

 

Why I want to have a huge cable tying everything together is to eliminate any minor voltage differentials, and deal with any RF interference, (or have the same interference for every component).  

 

Grounding MS3pro - Shoptalkforums.com

SHOPTALKFORUMS.COM

 

 

Me trying to figure this out.