1967 2000c with 2002tii engine having some issues.

[jkraft]

All new SS lines at each tire, all new brake components master cylinder.  The temporay check valve is legit but I have ordered another one.  The check valve points to the intake?  I am not losing brake fluid.  

[tzei]

Can’t remamber arrow orientation but you must be able blow air in manifld direction. No air in booster direction.

[jkraft]

The brake problem was the result of the stoplight switch on the master cylinder.  It was causing the brake not to release properly.

[jkraft]

In the end the brake light switch did not solve the problem.  The brake continue to "lock" up after use.  I checked the booster and it seems to be working.  My booster does not have an adjustable rod at the master cylinder to shorten the throw as this seems to be a problem on many post.  I an replacing the rear calipers to see if that is the problem.   I have been looking for a brake booster replacement and can't find anything.

[tzei]

Fronts or rears? I'll guess rears and I go on and suspect that shoes/springs are not correctly assembled (not working/releasing shoes).

[jkraft]

It is all 4.  

[tzei]

Then it has to be something with the MC.

[Son of Marty]

If it's all 4 brakes the problem is the master cylinder, I'm not familiar with the c/s brake linkage but if it's like the 02's the linkage it self can be adjusted for length and it's most likely too long and not letting the master release fully.

Edited April 13 by Son of Marty

[jkraft]

The MC is new.  Yes the brake pedal has an adjustment under the dash.  Right now the brake pedal is proud of the clutch pedal.

[Son of Marty]

3 minutes ago, jkraft said:

The MC is new.  Yes the brake pedal has an adjustment under the dash.  Right now the brake pedal is proud of the clutch pedal.

Just because the M/C is new doesn't make it good especially now days, when you press the brake pedal is there any play before the brakes work, there should be so that the M/C can fully return to the rest position.

[jkraft]

I have pulled the shim on the brake booster rod.  When I just use a clamp on the master cylinder the brakes release fine.  I tried using an 1/8 rubber washer to shim the master cylinder even farther but it still does not release.  The odd thing is when the brakes are locked up and I losen up and remove the master cylinder (it seems like the brakes should release but they do not release until I use a clamp to push on the master cylinder and then the brakes release.  The booster seems to be fully operational when I test it with the master cylinder off?  I vacum tested the booster and it is holding pressure untill you push the pedal?

 

Is it possible I have the different lines switched on the new master cylinder?

[tzei]

 

[jkraft]

Update.  I have sent the brake booster to Ireland Engineering to be rebuilt and I am replacing the master cylinder with a 4 ports one for each wheel.  I ran a new additional line to the one of the rear wheels using the existing one for the other rear wheel.