Tii runs poorly and lacks power, gets worse as it warms up

[bergie33]

On your cold start injector, you should also check that it isn't leaking all the time. A leaky cold start injector will cause issues. Pull the injector and turn on the ignition so the fule pump is running and check to make sure it isn't leaking any fuel. 

Edited June 3, 2023 by bergie33

[Hans]

The old saying that most of your fuel problems are electrical may apply. As above, rule that out first. What id "fine" timing?

[ray_]

3 hours ago, TobyB said:

"BaT"

 

The engine bay has been wrapped with a bad case of runs like crap.  

The seller reports this case was specially forged in the fires of bullshit,

and lovingly applied with specialized tongans of heartfulness.

 

Sorry, tii's aren't something I know much about, but overblown marketing and

puffy, inflated fakery runs rampant.

 

t

 

Don't be jealous!

 

😁

[bergie33]

FYI, here is a discussion that might be helpful. It's from a few years ago and involves your exact car. Discussion started by one of its prior owners having issues.

 

 

 

[Sean Murphy]

23 hours ago, tzei said:

If those plastic runners leaks then crappy running ensues.

 

start pilot etc. is your friend to find out.

 

Thanks, tzei.

I have a new set of runners (those weren't cheap) that I can swap in if needed.  I'll have to research start pilot to learn more.  

[Sean Murphy]

20 minutes ago, bergie33 said:

FYI, here is a discussion that might be helpful. It's from a few years ago and involves your exact car. Discussion started by one of its prior owners having issues.

 

 

 

 

Thanks for all the suggestions and this share... I'll check it out for sure.

-Sean

[Sean Murphy]

 

Hi all…
I really appreciate the suggestions and documentation.  It’s more than enough to get me started.

Assuming the shop working on the car doesn’t resolve this before I bring her home, here’s my plan of attack:

 

Initial focus on electrical
•    Condenser and Coil replaced - validate
•    Cap and rotor were replaced prior to purchasing the car – will evaluate and replace if needed
•    Plugs were just replaced
•    Double-check timing, dwell, and ensure mechanical advance is working correctly

 

Fuel system
•    I have no history of replacement of filters/pump, so clean/replace filters
•    Check fuel pickup in tank
•    Double-check pressure before KF pump
•    Check pressure on each output from the KF
•    Cold-start injector is on a push-button, but will ensure it’s not leaking when not activated

 

Linkage and WUR
•    Ensure accelerator linkage is adjusted correctly
•    Inspect the WUR for proper adjustment

 

I’ll post an update in a few days once the car is back in my garage along with questions if I get hung up on any of the above.

 

Again, really appreciate the help!  
-Murph
 

[Hans]

 Plug wires should be part of your inspection. Dizzy shaft side play?

[Sean Murphy]

17 minutes ago, Hans said:

 Plug wires should be part of your inspection. Dizzy shaft side play?

 

Thanks, Hans.  I'll add them to the list!  

[Sean Murphy]

Hey all!  
The car is finally back here at home and running so poorly that I could barely get it from the tow truck into the garage.  

The first order of business appears to be a new battery.  After that, I'll get to work on all the suggestions.  

Cheers.

 

[Sean Murphy]

Okay...

Managed to get a little bit of troubleshooting knocked out...

• The cold start injector looks to be spraying well when activated and isn't leaking while the fuel pump is running.
• The brand-new red-top battery shows 12.4v with the car off, but only 12.0/.1 when the car is running!  So, now I'm wondering if I've got an alternator/regulator issue.  I see there is a tech article on the charging system so I'll dive into testing.  I did notice today that the red 'L' is lit on the dash when the engine is running.
• Dwell - one last piece... my timing light is reading the dwell at 90º.  I think I read that means points aren't opening but I'll have to inspect it closer to see if that's accurate in my case.  There was a suggestion above about the side play of the distributor shaft.  It doesn't seem to have play side-to-side, but it sure lifts and turns quite a bit when handling the rotor.  I'm not sure if that's normal.

Anyway, I'll keep working on it.  If any lightbulbs come on based on the above I'd love the insight.

Cheers,

Sean 

[ray_]

And, which specific spark plugs are you running?

 

Cheers,

[Sean Murphy]

12 minutes ago, ray_ said:

And, which specific spark plugs are you running?

 

Cheers,

 

Hi Ray... the shop that just finished working on it put in a set of Bosch WR8DC+ plugs.

[ray_]

Ok, not a bad choice, probably.

 

Tii's can foul plugs easily if things are only slightly off. You might take a look at them.

 

Cheers,

[Sean Murphy]

Sooooo...

Here's a pic of the back of the alternator... What am I missing here?  

 

Added a handful of pictures:

Fig 1 - Alternator

Fig 2 & 3 - Alternator cable?

Fig 4 - Regulator?

Fig 5 - Cables to what is shown in Fig 4

 

Best I can tell, B+ is headed up to the battery, but is wrapped up in the wiring harness so it's tough to tell for sure.  

 

 

I'll do some additional testing with the battery disconnected so I can ensure continuity of the battery connection, and see if this thing is grounded at all.  I don't see a ground wire connected.

 

I am also curious about some of the connectors I'm showing next.  

 

Is this supposed to be the connector to the back of the alternator?  It was coiled up under the air intake.  Wondering if it was replaced by what I show in Fig 5.

 

Fig 2

 

Fig 3

 

 

Obviously, the connector isn't looking too good, and I'm not sure where it's leading to.

 

My last two pics... wondering if this is the Voltage Regulator, and wondering if it's even needed anymore.  The wires  connected to what I'm showing in Fig 4 were coiled up behind the headlight, so it's not connected to anything.

 

Fig 4

 

Fig 5

 

Last thing, testing with my MM on the alternator... I had just under 12v prior to starting the car, and a drop once it was running.  That was with my positive lead on B+, and the negative lead on the ground screw on the alternator.  So, I'm wondering if the alternator is kaput.  I could disconnect the battery connection from the alternator to see what kind of result I get all on its own.

 

Is there a reason I wouldn't need it to be connected like this?