suspension shopping list

[popovm]

20 hours ago, paulyg said:

I think most replacement ball joints come with new self-locking nuts now, don’t they? 

 

20 hours ago, bergie33 said:

Not all of them.  I purchased some AC Delco ball joints from Rock Auto and they came with the castle nut.  Parts were stamped TRW.

 

 

Good point. I need to check the ball joints in my pile of parts and see if they come with the nut. 

[Dudeland]

21 hours ago, Dread2002 said:

it might be the strut, it's something up there that I'm pretty sure redoing the whole front end will fix.

I did my best to capture the noise. now after playing it back on my computer, it doesn't quite capture the sound all that great. I'm not sure i can do much better either.  

 

I'll get some picture from underneath the car this weekend and i'll post em here

That much squeaking with that little of an effort, something is definitely in need of replacement on the suspension side. It will be obvious when you start taking it apart.  Start with your list and work from there. 

 

This doesn't mean that your wheel bearings are ok.  

 

[slowbert]

On 8/4/2022 at 11:04 AM, popovm said:

 

 

 

Good point. I need to check the ball joints in my pile of parts and see if they come with the nut. 

The ones I got from Ireland had a lock nut, not the castle nut.

[M3M3]

Brakes, brakes, brakes.

 

You will have everything apart for the suspension.  Now is the time for some safety focus.  Replace the brake hoses, rebuild the calipers and replace the rotors.  Put some good brake pads on on it.

 

And don't sweat the safety wire thing in the "special bolts".  Use blue locktite and torque to spec.  Done.  Wire optional IF thread locker is used.  Nothing wrong with wire, but locktite is the mordern replacement.

[Son of Marty]

42 minutes ago, M3M3M3 said:

Nothing wrong with wire, but locktite is the mordern replacement.

Then why didn't the factory use the lock-tite in the first place? They used it in other places on 2002's like the flywheel bolts so why did they pay someone tom sit there all day and wire them. When they approve lock-tite for aircraft will talk but here if those bolts loosen up your going to crash.

[Dread2002]

On 8/4/2022 at 5:53 PM, Dudeland said:

This doesn't mean that your wheel bearings are ok.  

 

Added to the list!

1 hour ago, M3M3M3 said:

Brakes, brakes, brakes.

 

And don't sweat the safety wire thing in the "special bolts".  Use blue locktite and torque to spec.  Done.  Wire optional IF thread locker is used.  Nothing wrong with wire, but locktite is the mordern replacement.

And there's a reason I didn't bring up brakes on this post. . . .I haven't decided what kind of tires and rims I want. 

 

From the little searches I've done, it seems not all brake upgrades are compatible with all the looks I could give my car.

 

I know I could just redo and freshen up what's there, but it seems that everyone says upgrade your brakes. I just don't know what upgrade I should pursue. . .gotta pick the look first.

 

Also I kinda like the idea of safety wire I thing it would make for an eventful afternoon.

[Son of Marty]

I wouldn't sweat the brakes at this point, they can be done at anytime with out involving the suspension. I would redo the rear suspension as soon as the budget allows then the brakes.

[M3M3]

16 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

Then why didn't the factory use the lock-tite in the first place? They used it in other places on 2002's like the flywheel bolts so why did they pay someone tom sit there all day and wire them. When they approve lock-tite for aircraft will talk but here if those bolts loosen up your going to crash.

ok, then why did the factory drop using wire in this location on all later cars?  they learned lock tite works.  (ref the E30 M3).  yep, if the bolts loosen up, you may have an issue.  but if you fasten them correctly THEY DON"T LOOSEN UP.....  correctly could be with wire...or with locktite....or with both.

 

i have had many 2002's, including full tilt track cars.  never used wire.  always locktite blue.  never had one of those bolts loosen up.

 

LOL...your sig line quote applies here.?

[M3M3]

15 hours ago, Dread2002 said:

And there's a reason I didn't bring up brakes on this post. . . .I haven't decided what kind of tires and rims I want. 

 

From the little searches I've done, it seems not all brake upgrades are compatible with all the looks I could give my car.

 

I know I could just redo and freshen up what's there, but it seems that everyone says upgrade your brakes. I just don't know what upgrade I should pursue. . .gotta pick the look first.

that is kinda backwards thinking.  safety before looks.  based on the suspension descriptions, you appear to be driving a car that has decades of deferred maintenance.   fix the brakes.   the normal basic brake improvements that fit in 13in wheels will be perfect for any wheel size.  from the old school volvo caliper swap to the smaller wilwood calipers for more visual.  more than enough for any 2002.  

 

sweat the brakes first.   it is all going to be apart anyway.

 

same goes for the rear.  if doing all the bushings back there,  sweat the brakes.   be that the 320i bigger drums or the VW disk brake conversion.  just do it.

 

[Dread2002]

Alright, sorry for the delay everyone, the heat slowed me down. The subframe is out! @Dudeland you suggested I post some pictures, are there any specific areas I should get?

 

One thing I noticed when I ripped this thing out was that the driver side motor mount had a fat ugly weld on it. I'm glad that I'll be reinforcing it the right way 

[paulyg]

I am almost ready to put mine back in the car- pictures to follow. 
 

Anyone have any wisdom to share about how tight the steering linkage should feel with all new everything? Feels especially tight at the track rod to idler and drop arm joints and at the idler pivot. 

Edited August 9, 2022 by paulyg
Added pics!

[Dudeland]

On 8/9/2022 at 4:01 PM, Dread2002 said:

Alright, sorry for the delay everyone, the heat slowed me down. The subframe is out! @Dudeland you suggested I post some pictures, are there any specific areas I should get?

 

One thing I noticed when I ripped this thing out was that the driver side motor mount had a fat ugly weld on it. I'm glad that I'll be reinforcing it the right way 

You certainly aren't wasting any time.  I am thinking a good degreasing and inspection for cracks.   When you are in there replace the pitman arm bushings, as they are very difficult/impossible to replace with the subframe on the car.   Others will help you with the correct replacement bushings and technique.  Ireland has them as well as other folks.  Now would be the time to have a close look at the steering box, and address any abnormal slop in the steering.  They are filled with oil from the factory, but many have given up trying to seal them and gone with grease.  I respectfully ask others to weigh in on this matter, as I purchased a rebuilt one packed with grease and so far I am fine with the result. 

[Dread2002]

On 8/10/2022 at 4:19 PM, Dudeland said:

They are filled with oil from the factory, but many have given up trying to seal them and gone with grease. 

and of course after cleaning all the gunk off the box ,it started to leak oil. 

[Dread2002]

Here's the update: I've gotten everything apart and mostly cleaned and ready for blasting and coating. 

I've only spoke to one shop so far and they quoted me 600 for just what's in the picture and only for coating, no blasting. 

Imo, I think that number is kinda insane.

I'm going to keep shopping.

 

Soooo some nuts and bolts gave me a real head ache. . . . The nut atop the shock inside the mount. I ended up needing to cut it off after rounding it out . . .the PO must have used some heavy locktite on it. Who know. Anyways,  I went too deep and cut the first washer. Oops. 

In the process I also damaged the shock mount and need a new one. The rubber was cracking so maybe it's a good thing I'm getting a new one.  

I didn't think I'd have this issue, but shopping for a new shock mount is confusing the hell outta me. 

Maybe this is a better question for blunt once he gets off vacation, but blunttech has two listing for shock mounts and I don't know which one I should get or if they include the bearings and hardware or not. I don't need a whole new set of hardware, right? Just the washer I cut?

 

Other than that, almost all my parts came in and I can't wait to start putting everything back together! I've gone ahead and decided to upgrade the brakes(Volvo) and now am shopping for wheels. I'm having such a hard time picking rims, I like so many different looks. 100% sticking with 13 in. though. 

 

Other than the shock mount issue, thing are going well. With thanks to you guys, I seem to have every I need for a successful refresh! Once I get everything coating I'll be back to ask you guys which nuts I should use locktite on and which ones I shouldn't. One thing I noticed with my new parts is that the ball joint nut isn't a castle nut and doesn't have a hole for a cotter pin, but does have the nylon ring. Locktite or no? 

Til everything gets coated, cheers!

 

Ps: How painful is it to remove and replace the header when the subframe is in? Or should I go ahead and just do that now?

 

 

 

 

 

[paulyg]

I had my subframe (only) blasted and coated for 200. I live in the most expensive area of the country. It wasn’t a concourse job, more industrial grade- some bubbles, thick areas, not a great blast job ect. I was quoted around 600 for the job from another shop. Just remember that you’ll never see this and it’s not bodywork. Find a good industrial blast and powdercoat shop.