Jump to content
  • When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

suspension shopping list


Dread2002

Recommended Posts

Hello!

First, lemme thank you all for helping me these past weeks. I had a blast driving her around yesterday.

So school is out now and I want to tackle the front end before the next semester. The reason for this post today check whether i am missing anything, if I should attend to anything else while the front end is out, and anything you guys might want to add.

I'm trying to compile a shopping list of all the things I need so that this operation goes as smoothly as possible. 

so far I have. . .

* Suspension refresh kit from bluntech

* Street suspension kit from bluntech (includes shocks, springs and swaybar) 

* heavy duty control arms from Ireland engineering

* Drivers side reinforcing plate from Ireland engineering

* motor mounts from Ireland engineering

 

Is this all the stuff I'll need? are their any little pieces of rubber, some nuts and bolts, or part I should also pick up so I can avoid the "waiting a week for this part"?

Also, is there anything I should pick up for the front brakes that might not work or break when I put them back on? I plan to upgrade those, but not yet. . . .I'm still educating myself on that topic. i haven't even picked out the kind of rims and tires I want yet (open to suggestion)

 

 

I'll be doing this procedure with the engine still attached using one of those suspension bars from harbor freight that other members of this forum have done. I want to avoid messing with the engine and everything attached, it's perfect right now.

 

any and all advice is welcome! Is there is anything any of you can think of that I should ABSOLUTELY do while this procedure goes on?

 

 

 

bonus question, what is this cannister thing? i've searched high and low for an answer. is it part of the smog stuff? can i ditch it? 

I plan on removing the smog stuff while I wait for parts for the suspension to come in. whatever it is, trying to figure out what it is has been driving me crazy. 

 

Big thanks,

Travis

 

 

 

 

 

PXL_20220731_223026944.jpg

Edited by Dread2002
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That canister is full of charcoal and it's part of the fuel vapor recovery system, if you choose to reroute the tank vent you can remove it, otherwise leave it be. Please tell us you bought the rubber engine mount kit from Ireland, other than that your list looks to be pretty complete. Before you weld in the mount support I would recommend that you cut a "key hole" for the engine mount washer so that it sits against the original mount so you still get the full thread engagement of the nut. 

If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Son of Marty said:

That canister is full of charcoal and it's part of the fuel vapor recovery system

Thank you, it's been driving me nuts!

1 hour ago, Son of Marty said:

 Please tell us you bought the rubber engine mount kit from Ireland, 

I haven't purchased anything yet, but yes, from Ireland. I'm not sure why I chose to abbreviate there 

1 hour ago, Son of Marty said:

 Before you weld in the mount support I would recommend that you cut a "key hole" for the engine mount washer so that it sits against the original mount so you still get the full thread engagement of the nut. 

And these are the tips I was looking for, thank you!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm partway through doing the front suspension the ummm... hard way... 

 

The Blunt kit absolutely covers all the items that you SHOULD need, but as far as the items you'll ACTUALLY need, it's gonna come down to hardware. Don't count on being able to re-use every castle nut that comes off, and most of your wavy and split lock washers are likely gonna be toasted. Worth buying the front and rear subframe hardware kits available from many vendors. Some items that are not included in those kits that will come in handy would be the wavy washers for the steering box and all the sway bar mounting hardware. 

 

Also probably worth looking at a new sway bar and end links. When I got mine off (ST 22mm), I discovered it was very bent. No wonder the car pulled. I'm doing the upper strut bearings, spring perches, and shocks too since I'm sick of how rough the car rides with Bilsteins. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Dread2002 said:

 

I'll be doing this procedure with the engine still attached using one of those suspension bars from harbor freight

Subframes coming out right?

This process could take some time, dont leave your coupled engine/trans/driveshaft dangling from the hoist.

Find some blocks/ stands whatever and support it securely.

Bad things can happen to a coupled up drivetrain if the hoist fails or is inadvertently dropped(kids, misc dumb asses)?

Also a good time to replace the rear trans mount if required.

Edited by tech71
  • Like 1

76 2002 Survivor

71 2002 Franzi

85 318i  Doris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A few suggestions/predictions...

 

12 hours ago, tech71 said:

Also a good time to replace the rear trans mount if required.

Get the mount from an E21 or a Bavaria--larger, longer lasting minimum mods to install (enlarge mounting hole in the crossmember)

 

12 hours ago, paulyg said:

Also probably worth looking at a new sway bar and end links.

Whether you replace sway bars or not (and larger ones--22 mm front, 19 mm rear are a definite improvement), get urethane bushings for both the end links and the mounts.  That's the only place I'd use urethane for suspension bushings on a street car.  The urethane bushings don't compress so will allow the sway bars to start functioning faster when loaded then the compressible rubber bushings.  And they won't make the ride harsh(er) like urethane bushings elsewhere in the suspension.

 

And...be prepared for a real fight to get to the lower ball joints, and removing 'em once you're there.  There are three "special" bolts down there--easily rounded off/broken off.  I'd buy at least one spare bolt  in case you break/round off one.  They're not found at your local hardware store. Drop me a PM if you'd like the columns I did on refurbishing my car's front suspension.

 

cheers

mike 

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One other thing is you'll need enough  stainless safety wire for the 3 special bolts on both struts, you can use one thicker wire through all 3 ala the factory or you can used lighter wire twisted ala aircraft style, but don't skip it.

If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Won’t it? The bar/end links will be pushing on one control arm harder than the other which will unsettle the car. It would cause one side of the car to ride higher and you’d have all sorts of goofy stuff happening. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    Unveiling of the Neue Klasse Unveiled in 1961, BMW 1500 sedan was a revolutionary concept at the outset of the '60s. No tail fins or chrome fountains. Instead, what you got was understated and elegant, in a modern sense, exciting to drive as nearly any sports car, and yet still comfortable for four.   The elegant little sedan was an instant sensation. In the 1500, BMW not only found the long-term solution to its dire business straits but, more importantly, created an entirely new
    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    In 1966, BMW was practically unknown in the US unless you were a touring motorcycle enthusiast or had seen an Isetta given away on a quiz show.  BMW’s sales in the US that year were just 1253 cars.  Then BMW 1600-2 came to America’s shores, tripling US sales to 4564 the following year, boosted by favorable articles in the Buff Books. Car and Driver called it “the best $2500 sedan anywhere.”  Road & Track’s road test was equally enthusiastic.  Then, BMW took a cue from American manufacturers,
    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    BMW 02 series are like the original Volkswagen Beetles in one way (besides both being German classic cars)—throughout their long production, they all essentially look alike—at least to the uninitiated:  small, boxy, rear-wheel drive, two-door sedan.  Aficionados know better.   Not only were there three other body styles—none, unfortunately, exported to the US—but there were some significant visual and mechanical changes over their eleven-year production run.   I’ve extracted t

  • Upcoming Events

  • Supporting Vendors

×
×
  • Create New...