Jump to content

suspension shopping list


Recommended Posts

Hello!

First, lemme thank you all for helping me these past weeks. I had a blast driving her around yesterday.

So school is out now and I want to tackle the front end before the next semester. The reason for this post today check whether i am missing anything, if I should attend to anything else while the front end is out, and anything you guys might want to add.

I'm trying to compile a shopping list of all the things I need so that this operation goes as smoothly as possible. 

so far I have. . .

* Suspension refresh kit from bluntech

* Street suspension kit from bluntech (includes shocks, springs and swaybar) 

* heavy duty control arms from Ireland engineering

* Drivers side reinforcing plate from Ireland engineering

* motor mounts from Ireland engineering

 

Is this all the stuff I'll need? are their any little pieces of rubber, some nuts and bolts, or part I should also pick up so I can avoid the "waiting a week for this part"?

Also, is there anything I should pick up for the front brakes that might not work or break when I put them back on? I plan to upgrade those, but not yet. . . .I'm still educating myself on that topic. i haven't even picked out the kind of rims and tires I want yet (open to suggestion)

 

 

I'll be doing this procedure with the engine still attached using one of those suspension bars from harbor freight that other members of this forum have done. I want to avoid messing with the engine and everything attached, it's perfect right now.

 

any and all advice is welcome! Is there is anything any of you can think of that I should ABSOLUTELY do while this procedure goes on?

 

 

 

bonus question, what is this cannister thing? i've searched high and low for an answer. is it part of the smog stuff? can i ditch it? 

I plan on removing the smog stuff while I wait for parts for the suspension to come in. whatever it is, trying to figure out what it is has been driving me crazy. 

 

Big thanks,

Travis

 

 

 

 

 

PXL_20220731_223026944.jpg

Edited by Dread2002
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That canister is full of charcoal and it's part of the fuel vapor recovery system, if you choose to reroute the tank vent you can remove it, otherwise leave it be. Please tell us you bought the rubber engine mount kit from Ireland, other than that your list looks to be pretty complete. Before you weld in the mount support I would recommend that you cut a "key hole" for the engine mount washer so that it sits against the original mount so you still get the full thread engagement of the nut. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Son of Marty said:

That canister is full of charcoal and it's part of the fuel vapor recovery system

Thank you, it's been driving me nuts!

1 hour ago, Son of Marty said:

 Please tell us you bought the rubber engine mount kit from Ireland, 

I haven't purchased anything yet, but yes, from Ireland. I'm not sure why I chose to abbreviate there 

1 hour ago, Son of Marty said:

 Before you weld in the mount support I would recommend that you cut a "key hole" for the engine mount washer so that it sits against the original mount so you still get the full thread engagement of the nut. 

And these are the tips I was looking for, thank you!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm partway through doing the front suspension the ummm... hard way... 

 

The Blunt kit absolutely covers all the items that you SHOULD need, but as far as the items you'll ACTUALLY need, it's gonna come down to hardware. Don't count on being able to re-use every castle nut that comes off, and most of your wavy and split lock washers are likely gonna be toasted. Worth buying the front and rear subframe hardware kits available from many vendors. Some items that are not included in those kits that will come in handy would be the wavy washers for the steering box and all the sway bar mounting hardware. 

 

Also probably worth looking at a new sway bar and end links. When I got mine off (ST 22mm), I discovered it was very bent. No wonder the car pulled. I'm doing the upper strut bearings, spring perches, and shocks too since I'm sick of how rough the car rides with Bilsteins. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Dread2002 said:

 

I'll be doing this procedure with the engine still attached using one of those suspension bars from harbor freight

Subframes coming out right?

This process could take some time, dont leave your coupled engine/trans/driveshaft dangling from the hoist.

Find some blocks/ stands whatever and support it securely.

Bad things can happen to a coupled up drivetrain if the hoist fails or is inadvertently dropped(kids, misc dumb asses)😉

Also a good time to replace the rear trans mount if required.

Edited by tech71
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A few suggestions/predictions...

 

12 hours ago, tech71 said:

Also a good time to replace the rear trans mount if required.

Get the mount from an E21 or a Bavaria--larger, longer lasting minimum mods to install (enlarge mounting hole in the crossmember)

 

12 hours ago, paulyg said:

Also probably worth looking at a new sway bar and end links.

Whether you replace sway bars or not (and larger ones--22 mm front, 19 mm rear are a definite improvement), get urethane bushings for both the end links and the mounts.  That's the only place I'd use urethane for suspension bushings on a street car.  The urethane bushings don't compress so will allow the sway bars to start functioning faster when loaded then the compressible rubber bushings.  And they won't make the ride harsh(er) like urethane bushings elsewhere in the suspension.

 

And...be prepared for a real fight to get to the lower ball joints, and removing 'em once you're there.  There are three "special" bolts down there--easily rounded off/broken off.  I'd buy at least one spare bolt  in case you break/round off one.  They're not found at your local hardware store. Drop me a PM if you'd like the columns I did on refurbishing my car's front suspension.

 

cheers

mike 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Won’t it? The bar/end links will be pushing on one control arm harder than the other which will unsettle the car. It would cause one side of the car to ride higher and you’d have all sorts of goofy stuff happening. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share


  • Upcoming Events

×
×
  • Create New...