Preparing for a Weber 38

[TodB]

34 minutes ago, rstclark said:

OKAY  Try this

 

Mechanical

700  6

1500  18

2000  23

2500  28

4000  34

6000  32  ---

MAP

0kp   0

29kp  0

30kp  10

50 kp  10

60kp  2

75kp  0

100kp  0

200kp  0

 

Take the vacuum off the manifold under the carb rather than from the carb. Just be sure the vacuum is from under the carb throttle plate

Static can be set low  like 2-4 degrees because the mechanical and map kick in early

Find a good idle  and go from there.

BTW  I have an electric choke 38/38 (jetted down) on a 9.5 :1 compression motor with a 284 cam etc.  I really like the 38/38 for  good low end torque and great colds and idle.  So I wouldn't talk you out of a 38/38    but  it well worth a try of a Sync Link especially if your 32/36 is running well 

Good luck with this project.

 

Good luck with your project

Thanks, I’ll get this curve loaded up shortly and hook up the vacuum. The sync link might be a good compromise. Baby steps...

[xr4tic]

55 minutes ago, rstclark said:

BTW  I have an electric choke 38/38 (jetted down) on a 9.5 :1 compression motor with a 284 cam etc.  I really like the 38/38 for  good low end torque and great colds and idle.  So I wouldn't talk you out of a 38/38    but  it well worth a try of a Sync Link especially if your 32/36 is running well 

Good luck with this project.

 

Can you post your jet settings?  I have this exact same combo.

[airborne85]

Sync link is a great compliment to a 32/36........You will like it...........As well as 38/38 is a great compliment to your car.....You will like it to......I have two cars with sync links...One car with a 38/38.............I think the prescribed recipes for jetting and such are great.....I didn't use them....I simply added or subtracted as needed, trial and error from the existing jets......I didn't use a cannon manifold.  I hogged out my stock manifold in place by stuffing rags in the opening's. I used a grinder to do the hogging, while using a shop vac to catch all of the particles..... What's the down side to either platform...I do not know, I haven't found one, because nothing is perfect, ever, and of my cars run great....Decision decisions.....This feces is fun

 

Good luck

 

ira

[rstclark]

I’ll look up the jet settings when I get home

[TodB]

9 hours ago, rstclark said:

Just running mechanical advance is often misunderstood as high performance, which it is if all you do is drag race at full throttle when there is no vacuum.  But that's not how we drive our cars - most of the time. For overall driving there is real value in having vacuum advance that comes in at idle and cruise speeds.I can send you a mechanical curve with MAP settings that I can guarantee you will be happy with. It's on my laptop so I'll look it up and forward it to you in a subsequent post.

 

 

Just loaded up your curve with MAP settings and added the vacuum line. Seems to run pretty good. Ignition tops out all in at about 40 based upon the 123 dashboard. I’ll take it our for a more extended cruise tomorrow. Thanks for sending your curve along. 

 

Next step will will be to try the sync link. 

[rstclark]

@Cr4tic

jetting formula

mains. 135

Air. 180

Idle 50

Etube F66

 

this is at sea level 

 

good starting point for a 38/38

 

[rstclark]

TodB

Remember that a lean mixture. Like Idle and cruise takes longer to burn so the spark has to happen earlier- more advance. People complain about a stumble at mid range. With a vacuum curve the motor is ready to run when you accelerate so it’s really beneficial

I think you will be happy with the 123 tune with the vacuum curve 

[rstclark]

PS  you can actually set the static at zero and let the distributor do all the work. Get a good smooth idle with a low  base static advance, ie 2 degrees and play with this   You will be really safe with a total of not more than 36 maybe 38 degrees advance.

With a stock motor compression of most likely 8.3:1  you won't get pinging  . BTW in my car with higher compression I use 91 octane California blend so-called gas and this works 

Your set up will be different so keep tweeking things 

If you have a usb type 123 distributor ,  you can set two curves and try a second test set up against the base curve until you are satisfied by the laptop or the butt dyno that you have a really good  tune

 

Have fun  You're definitely on the right track