Intake Manifold - are these coolant points repairable?

[Lorin]

16 hours ago, TVeye said:

 

Is this the only issue with the bypass? It only gets under 75 here in January.

Might just try it and find out for myself.

 

 

It otherwise worked exactly the same as with no coolant in the manifold. Regularly the carb would be covered in a thin film of frost after driving it, even on hot days. 

 

I'm sure humidity plays a role in all this as well. My experience happened in atlanta, ga.

 

 I wanted the cosmetic improvement of removing the water jacket and making the manifold trim and smooth. I did my experiment in the late summer and it didn't take long before i returned coolant flow to where it was intended. My car was my only car and daily driven.

 

If you've never had a carb ice before, it's a pretty annoying situation when you are trying to get somewhere. Especially in traffic.

 

Edited December 18, 2018 by Lorin

[Simeon]

17 minutes ago, Lorin said:

If you've never had a carb ice before, it's a pretty annoying situation when you are trying to get somewhere. Especially in traffic.

 

I had the throttle body/ fuel distributor ice open on a 1982 Mercedes Benz W123 once. Trying to cope with that tank careering around in traffic with a stuck open throttle was scary. 

[TVeye]

I wonder how the Cannon 38/38 manifold deals with this? It's of a similar design.

I just want to use my Tii coolant outlet for the extra sensor ports.

 

Back on topic... I agree with the JB Weld suggestions.

 

 

[zambo]

Quick follow up on the JB Weld -  would I use the putty product or the epoxy two part for this fix ... or either would work? I am looking at refurbing the heater box over Christmas and whilst not out of the cabin yet, I am anticipating some cracks in the case. So be good if the same product could be used. Any suggestions/recommendations appreciated.

[dave-r]

I would think the epoxy/more liquid style would work just fine for both.

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