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zambo

Intake Manifold - are these coolant points repairable?

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Just had my first experience with vapour blasting and pretty happy with the results. A little bit of residue to wipe off, but a nice factory finish.

 

My question relates to the last two images, I noticed that there is "see thru" on the two coolant pipes/junctions and whilst they don't leak (because it's about where the hose clamps fit), I was wondering if these sections were removable and could be replaced as I have the unit out and it seems like a good idea to future proof later leaks.

 

As always, thanks for any advice.

 

Richard

 

 

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Edited by zambo

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Richard,

 

I don’t have your answer, but....this is very common damage, and I’m not aware of a good fix. My ‘76’s original manifold went into “storage” on account of similar damage. Korman said that given how plentiful and relatively inexpensive stock intake manifolds are, let’s just find a better one, which we did.

 

So I would, likewise, like to hear someone knowledgeable say, “That’s no problem at all, they can build up that nipple with new aluminum and then cut it down to the original spec.”

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

Edited by Conserv

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The nipples are steel i believe. i would braze, silver solder or weld the holes and finish them smooth. 

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28 minutes ago, Lorin said:

The nipples are steel i believe. i would braze, silver solder or weld the holes and finish them smooth. 

 

Thanks, Lorin,

 

I assumed they were aluminum because of the thick walls and the deep pitting. But I should take a magnet to them — if I can just find that manifold!

 

Best regards,

 

Steve

 

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The problem is dissimilar metal corrosion which is a function of electrolysis the rest of the nipple will be "punky" and will most likely collapse if you try to weld it brazing or silver solder may work This problem is usually caused by not changing antifreeze as the anti corrosion inhibitors disappear fairly rapidly so keep changing the prestone every 2 years whether you use the car or not. 

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I had damage similar to this on a diverter valve for another vehicle and used some 2 part epoxy radiator repair and sanded smooth after setting up. Since it was under hose the slight difference in finish was not important and has held up fine since. Just a thought since the part is so nice and shiny now!

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

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Thanks Dave - good suggestion. I just checked mine with a magnet and there is no attraction. So I am assuming therefore its alloy like the majority of the manifold. They both look pressed in though ...

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Was just watching a vid on aluminium brazing/welding with a propane torch. It looks very achievable and able to be ground back once finished to a desired level, easier than ferrous metals. And my situation is only to plug holes not create a strength based joint as such, so worth a try.

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This is why the m10 motor i have will just bypass this. You dont need that warm up here in cali. Im doing a bypass similar to that of a sidedraft setup but with a 38/38. Jus sayin although originality may be your goal. 

 

And yes they are some sort of alloy,  pretty brittle too.  I would just jb weld the holes up and call it good. 

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JB Weld or any two part ‘kneadable’ epoxy filler will do the job. You only need a consistent surface to seal the hose against when tightening the hose clamp. 

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12 hours ago, zambo said:

IMG_6859.JPG

 

What I'm wondering about...

If this is a '77 manifold, is it taken from a E21 3-series? How do you get along with the kickdown cable in an auto (if not converted)? Once I wanted to install such one and it didn't work.

 

Henning

 

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7 hours ago, 02tradition said:

This is why the m10 motor i have will just bypass this. You dont need that warm up here in cali. Im doing a bypass similar to that of a sidedraft setup but with a 38/38. Jus sayin although originality may be your goal. 

 

And yes they are some sort of alloy,  pretty brittle too.  I would just jb weld the holes up and call it good. 

 

That warm coolant does serve a purpose with the carb so far away from the engine. I bypassed mine years ago and the carb would ice and become undriveable at temps below 75 degrees. 

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On 12/16/2018 at 6:43 AM, Lorin said:

 

That warm coolant does serve a purpose with the carb so far away from the engine. I bypassed mine years ago and the carb would ice and become undriveable at temps below 75 degrees. 

 

Is this the only issue with the bypass? It only gets under 75 here in January.

Might just try it and find out for myself.

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I had the same issue on mine.  I measured one of the ports and bought some large brass NTP fittings to try and replace them, only to find out the connections are not the same size in the manifold, so I scrapped that idea and just picked up another used manifold.

 

While you have it apart, you will want to check out the rest of your ports, my water diverter (part coming off the head) was corroded through as well as the port on the back of the head.

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