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Excessive Oil Consumption! 1972 BMW 2002


GraysonHaugen

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Burning 1 QT. Oil for 250 MI.

I am pretty sure I am going to need to re-hone my Cylinders and get a larger pistons.

Valve Guid Seals also probably need to get replaced as well. Might as well. Right?

Unfortunately I am pretty new at this and I don't have many contacts for mechanics that specialize in these cars. Also, Sense I have never done anything like this, I have no idea what this will cost me (Or what it realistically SHOULD cost me.)

I am Located in Portland, Oregon. And I know there are a lot of 02 shops around here.

Are there any preferred/dependable/good work/cheaper labor (I know, I know, I am dreaming here.) Shops around here?

Please let me know!

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1972 BMW 2002 Currently driving.

3 BMW 2002's have been owned already.

I am happy with this one.

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Any idea on the mileage of the engine? How long have you had the car, and what kind of mileage has it seen in the past few years? Cars that have been sitting or rarely driven for long periods of time sometimes exhibit low compression or high oil consumption and need to be driven for a good trip (500-1000 miles) to literally re-break them in. But a quart in 250 miles is a lot without any leakage.

It is probably valve stem seals, and maybe the rings if the mileage is high. You will need to have a shop do a compression and leakdown test first to determine what needs to be done.

There are others on this board who will surely chime in with recommendations on costs and shops in the Portland area, as I am near Chicago.

Car looks good in the pics, though I've a weakness for bright colors.

vince

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oil consumption limit = 1 liter per 1000 Km

you need to tell us the history in detail about this motor

because it may just need as mentioned above 'some exercise

therapy'

a motor oil flushing with spirited high operation temps

for prolonged miles (100 - 500miles)

then a final oil filter change, then an accurate oil consumption

check. Aways checking the oil level when HOT, after shut off and

letting sit for 5-min. on level ground- NEVER adding oil to a cold

motor or over the FULL mark on the dip stick.

when you change the oil add no more than 4.5 Qt.s

call back later..........

02oilboltandfilter.jpg

FIABMWGr2cars5.jpg

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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1. Look under car: puddle=leak; also check notorious oil leakage spots on the M10--valve cover gasket, distributor oil seal ring, front timing cover and front crankshaft seal.

2. Start the engine? Big puff of grey smoke on starting followed by less but still noticeable grey smoke? Maybe rings...keep reading.

3. Warm the engine up, put in gear and accelerate smartly from a stop. Smoke then? probably rings--do a compression and/or leakdown test.

4. After that smart acceleration, with the engine turning 4k rpm or so, lift off the accelerator completely and coast in gear. Smoke? Valve guides and seals are your problem--common on M10 engines. Replace with the later design guides and seals used on the E30 M10 engines.

5. White smoke once warmed up? Could be brake fluid being sucked through a leaking M/C into the vacuum booster and on into the intake manifold, or water vapor (check with paper towel over the exhaust pipe--is it wet?) from a ready-to-fail head gasket...

Let us know whatcha find...

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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