Bearing question

[florida2002m3]

What is the best way to press the new bearing sleeves in. On the inner bearing i was able to scrounge a piece of pvc that fit the ring perfectly. But the smaller outer one i could only get in about half way.

I then put the whole assembly back together and used the crown nut to push it in. Once it bottomed out i backed it off to set the tension.

Is that the best/standard practice if you dont have the tools? Any other ideas before i do the other side?

Edit: front wheel bearings, sorry for the lack of details earlier.

[AceAndrew]

What bearing and bearing-race are you referring to?

[Guest Anonymous]

I have for years been installing bearing races using a socket and hammer. I take an approx. 19 mm socket and place the flat side ( the side with the 3/8 square hole that attaches the socket to a socket wrench) on the bearing race. After placing the race in or on it's location I carefully tap the race with the socket into it's home being very careful to tap it in level until it is flush with the hubs outer ridge. Then I simply, and VERY carefully go round and round the race tapping on the socket until it bottoms out in it's home. Be very careful to place as much of the socket on the rather thin lip or the race in order to spread the contact surface and not distort or damage the race. When the race bottoms out you will hear the sound of the hammer hitting the socket change thus helping you determine it has seated. Also look through from the other side of your VERY clean, grease free hub an view that it has seated. Go slow!!!!! If when you first start this type of install method be sure the bearing race goes in uniformly. If you start it with one side too deep too fast you can damage the race. Wash your socket in gas before you start and CLEAN it 100%. Also be sure to place your hub on a SOLID surface before starting. I installed bearings this way last time a week ago with NO problems on my 76 2002. Again, be sure you start installing the race evenly just like a press would. Good luck!

[Guest Anonymous]

I forgot to mention adding motor oil before starting on the race/internal hub mating surface will make the install easier.

[TobyB]

Don't use the bearings to press the race home- they run the risk of

putting grooves into the races.

I use big sockets too- the 3/4" drive set from Harbor Fright is great

for that, tightening the rear hub nuts, etc...

You can also buy a set of drivers from the same vendor-

but I never saw the point...

t

[OriginalOwner]

+1 strictlyvanagon and TobyB

I myself use a big hammer and a brass rod, going around and around and around and around the perimeter until I'm dizzy from the effort.

One trick I was taught years and years ago: to begin, use the old race setting upon the new race. Use a flat bar across the top of the old race so you can hammer directly in the center so that the new race moves straight down into the hub. Then when the new race is down inside the hub far enough that the old race cannot be used, I switch to the brass rod.

GENTLY !! ALWAYS GENTLY !! DO NOT GET IN A HURRY. The race slides easily enough, no pounding needed, and you'll know when it is fully seated.

As you remove the old one, you'll get a good feel how the new race will move as you tap-tap-tap on it.

Cheers,

Carl

[florida2002m3]

Great info guys, i am a little worried about applying a hardened steel socket to the inside of the race. Or does the socked only touch the top of the race? my largest socket is a 1/2inch 15/16th, and it is too small to fit the edge of the race, it would be on the runners of the race.

Does it sound like i know what method you guys are suggesting? Use the socket back end to push on the rim of the race.... the same as i used the pvc to push on the rim of the larger race?

I hope i didnt groove the race while tightening the one side.

Thanks for the wisdom guys.

[OriginalOwner]

TOP of the race, the skinny edge only !! NOT the actual bearing surface !!!

a skinny lip .... hence why you go slow. Not a problem !!

Cheers,

Carl

[Guest Anonymous]

The size of the socket is not that important. The socket will be MUCH smaller than the diameter of any given race. The purpose of the socket when starting the install is simply to avoid hitting the race directly with a hammer. The socket protects the race from distortion. If you use too big a socket the edge from the flat side of the socket to the outer curved part may be so rounded as to reduce the surface contact area on the thin part of the race and it will slide off the thin part of the race and possibly scratch the bearing mating surface. Before the race becomes flush with the hub and starts to descend into the "hole" you can place quite a bit of the flat side of the socket onto the the thin part of the race and tap carefully. When the race is below flush the only part of the socket that can touch the thin part of the race is the outside edge of the flat part of the socket. You never hit the whole round circle of the upturned socket with the hammer thus having a quarter or half dollar between the socket and the hammer is NOT needed. Since when the race is descending into it's "hole" a very small amount of the socket is actually touching the race ONLY bring the hammer in contact with the socket directly above the race/socket contact area. The race must descend into it's "hole" evenly or the race with be a throw away. All during race installation I rotate the hub MANY times and bend down to view how evenly it is descending into the hub. If you are still confused call me at 925-322-3424 and I will walk you through it as you install a race.

[OriginalOwner]

YouTube has Everything !!

this will help ...... what has been discussed above is seen here ....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6k2T79nHXgw

Cheers,

Carl

[TobyB]

The socket will be MUCH smaller than the diameter of any given race.

huh.

I select one that' a gnat's eyelash smaller than the OD, and work my way around

with a pretty large hammer- gently!

Or stuff it in the press. But that's a pain.

My dad used a steel flatnosed punch, and I've used a brass one.

There are lots of ways- but you're right- never whang on the tapered bearing

part, always the thin edge. And go GENTLY- if it starts to tilt sideways,

tap on the higher spot to even it out.

It's not too hard.

t

[OriginalOwner]

with a steel punch, you are pretty much guaranteed to gouge the bearing surface if it slips ......

with a brass punch, you've got a much better chance it won't gouge .....

when I was young and reckless, I used a steel punch. I would press it down on the race edge, pull it very tightly against the hub, and tap tap tap.

then I got older and less courageous and bought a brass rod.

just like welding cast iron: go slow, be patient, stay confident, don't get overconfident and try to go faster.

Cheers,

Carl

[florida2002m3]

This forum is so much better than the E46 and E90 forums. I get nothing but real, usable answers here Thanks guys.

So now that i understand the "trick", do you think i should scrap the bearing that i pressed in with the crown nut/washer and buy a new one. Or should i be ok? Anyone ever try it that way before and have it fail prematurely?

Thanks again.

[OriginalOwner]

THAT is the question ...... and the only real safe answer is Yes.

Denting the surface of the outer race is one consideration, and creating a "flat" on one of the rollers is another. And a third consideration is tweaking the housing that carries the rollers.

And the only feasible method to determine if the bearing is trash is to remove it and take it to someone who can measure all that stuff to thousandth's (and ten thousandths's) of an inch.

A new bearing costs "nothing," the time to replace is minimal ..... compared to the peace of mind knowing you won't have to worry about it for another zillion miles.

Cheers,

Carl

[TobyB]

Yeah, plus 1 on that- they're cheap, and why have it

fail later?

That said, if it snugs and spins smoothly, it's probably OK.

I'd still replace it.

)surprisingly, the steel punch is much softer than the race, and it DOESN'T

scar it. I still thought it was a bad idea, and use brass instead when I have to(

t