Turkis (Toothless)

[Guest_anonymous]

1974 Turkis 4223513 purchased in may of 2000.

I bought the car for three reasons: 1. the shock towers on my '76 all states Malaga had rotted through. 2. the E21 Recaros in the car were selling for the same as the purchase price.

3. the color.

No history on the car. No matching numbers, so engine #2 at least. It smoked and sputtered horrendously, pulled the plugs and found 4 non- matching plugs, Two Bosch plugs, a 7 and an 8WDC, an NGK as well as a Champion. Armed with a Haynes manual, a 10pc sears 3/4 drive ratchet set and a hammer, I commenced on a project.

From the Malaga, I swapped out the engine, 3.91 open diff, instrument cluster, and E21 turbine rims. then had the Malaga scraped of the driveway and off to the wrecker.

engine #3 was sporting a weber 32/36 and I had the head rebuilt with a Korman 300 regrind installed. Converted to Pertronix and mounted an MSD 6a. Rejetted the 32/36 and put in larger venturi tubes from Pierce Manifold. Switched to a 40 DFAV which an 02 racer friend had handed me. There was no FAQ at the time but picked up an Ansa exhaust through the Web ring that was the internet info source and matched it with the Ansa resonator bought through Bav Autosport. A TEP front shock tower brace was candy I couldn't resist at the time.

Had the outer shell brought down to metal and resprayed. New front fenders, Turbo flares and air dam from korman put on at that time.

Head gasket blew around 30,000 miles later. There Turkis sat for 3 years like uncle Otto's truck, slowly melding into the driveway, outdoors and uncovered.

The fateful day finally arrived to reawaken as I located a runner somewhat locally.

Engine #4: out of a '74 it had NK numbers ran it for a year until it developed terminal problems. AAA Flatbed rescue at 11:00pm on I25 just under the towable distance allowance. While this engine did not turn out to be a long term solution, the friendship gained was well worth the endeavor.

The Dunlop 205/50 GT Qualifier sidewalls went dead during the period of hibernation causing terrible head shake at highway speeds. New Suotomo 185/60 gifted to me, now mounted and rides smooth and straight.

I located another donor; on a road trip to pick up a friends barn find condition classic motorcycle, a stop in Oklahoma City yielded engine #5. The kids uncle was a club racer and couldn't remember the engine very well, it may have a cam it may not, it might have high CR pistons but may be stock, for the $200 and four boxes of misc. parts, worth the try. It has a Tii head with no fuel pump port. Hence now running a Carter 4070. Gave me an excuse to pick up an E30 battery cable and install the rear shock tower brace/ battery relocation that had been banging around the boot for years since I needed to run wire for the Carter. Put on a tii exhaust manifold bought on the FAQ for $40.00 and a hogged out intake manifold better suited for the 40 than a two hole intake.

Turns out to have 140psi average per cylinder. Having an engine with decent compression I started to notice some stumbling at 75mph, turns out the 40 DFAV had mis-sized mains. Now with matching mains runs steady and strong.

Picked up a pair of 635Csi rear seats including center console and will finish the install with rear retractable belts and custom package tray, Eventually recovering front Recaros and rear buckets to match.

In ten years of tinkering, having a few more published and internet resources and having collected many more tools; A Chiltons manual, A BMW Mobile traditions CD, a torrent download of the BMW factory manual, Macartney's restoration book and of course a BFH, my wife said "I'm glad you're enjoying your car so much lately"

Currently up on ramps and stands for a 5 speed conversion.

[bluebmw]

More pictures!! Turkis is one of my all time favorites!

[Guest_anonymous]

Had been thinking about the Girling BBK and 250mm 320i drums as a side project to the 5 speed tranny swap during the winter since I have to dump the brake fluid, sooooooooo. Hit the Pull and Pay in one stop for the Girlings, '77 Rotors and '83 hubs. Slotted mounting tabs at C&G Machine for $40, Caliper seals from FCP Groton, and SS brake lines from Blunt.

Trial fit yielded no clearance issues with the e21 turbines (5.5 x 13 ET18)

Thanks to the FAQ article and all those before me this has been going smoothly.

[Guest_anonymous]

Finished the Girling BBK. Greased wheel bearings, mounted the hubs. Wheel studs from Turner, mounted the calipers with shims and plumbed the hard lines.

[Guest_anonymous]

pulled a MC from a '79 5 series to compliment the Girling BBK and 320i rear brake setup which is yet to come. Ordered the correct grommets: part # 34-31-1-121-911 22/8. While some people suggest that this is a straight "Bolt in", the pre-pressure valve attached to the stock rear brake line is of a different thread size to fit the e12 mc. It is also suggested that the pre-pressure valve is not needed because of the configuration of the rear brake shoe springs and adjusting pins which limit the brake shoe retraction. I have decided to run without the rear brake pre-pressure valve at first. If the pedal feel from the rear grab is too delayed, I will look to Wilwood for the in line 10lb residual pressure valve.

http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderValves.aspx

[Guest_anonymous]

So when I had decided to do the Girling BBK, two 320i cars sat at the bone yard. A '77 which I took the rotors from and an '81 I scored the small hubs from. So I went to grab the rear drums, having familiarized myself with the parts I needed I brought a 36mm 1/2" drive hub nut socket, breaker bar, some scrap lugs and my crow bar to brace the rear hubs. Hit the nuts with some PB blaster and realized that nothing was going to happen without an enforcer over the breaker bar. Of course no steel pipe to be had amongst the wreaking yard. so I left mostly empty handed except for the broken Snap-On 18L breaker bar I found in the aisle.

Next free morning I had I checked the on-line web inventory and both those 320i were crushed.

Off to Aurora.... an '81 320i waits.

Brought a 4' steel pipe this time.

Looking over the carcass I noticed three Rotas still mounted, curious but seemingly innocent until I grabbed my lug socket............

Lug Locks....UGHHHHHH.

But wait......whats that under the three tires in the trunk, under the bumper, under the intake hood, trunk mat, and floor board, YES...the lug lock key. one on each wheel plus a fourth in the trunk, a whole set of Gorilla Lug Locks

Hit the hub nuts with some PB and slipped the pipe over the breaker bar and voila, home free under 45 minutes and off to work.

SCORE

picture included is some random Japanese SUV head somebody pulled and must have been sadly disappointed

[Guest_anonymous]

Installed the 250mm rear drums this weekend. Plus, dropped the wasted Boge shocks and stock springs for Bilstein HD and Eibach Pro much thanks to Krauser and Bimmer02.

Mechanically no hiccups, everything was a cake walk. packed rear outer bearings and new seals, adjusted shoes and parking brake to 5 clicks. So far I have to say the most useful word of caution I have heeded was to use a flare nut wrench.

Getting anxious to drive.

Next up: onto the front struts.....

[Guest_anonymous]

The typical: "should be an easy swap" turned into more creep. Front suspension was trash. Pulled the struts replaced with HD's and Eibachs, new upper mounts, guide joints, control arms w/bushings, urethane sway bar links, sway mounts and Turbo/NK radius arm bushings, tie rod boots.

Bled brake system and dropped the car. Weighted down with 50# sand bags had an alignment done after torquing control arms and radius arms.

set the toe in.

Trailing arm bushings are next up to try and correct rear camber and toe.

Took a re-maiden voyage to bed the brakes and feel the suspension. I found the spring shock combo to be a very streetable performance upgrade. I'm quite happy about the initial experience.

Brake system needs another bleed and pads need to bed. Initially the pedal travel is a little long and softer than expected.

[Guest_anonymous]

And of course.... CREEP

Sticking thermostat yeilded blown head gasket. Leak down confirmed #1 blown into water jacket, blown between jugs 2 & 3.

Timing rail was broken. Lots of Slack in oil pump chain. Leaking rear seal.

Might as well do the 5 speed while I'm at it.

[Guest_anonymous]

The most recent transplant offered some interesting finds.

These needed to be clearanced. Head gasket failure was inevitable. Was getting 135psi compression average per jug before the head gasket went.

[Guest_anonymous]

Math is a wonderful thing, so is a tape measure.

89mm gearbox section

1547mm installed 5 speed tranny driveshaft measured length flange to flange -38mm Guibo = 1509mm modified driveshaft

Fit perfectly no gap / no squeeze

[Guest_anonymous]

Installed a 300* Korman regrind I had from a previous engine,

ceramic coated Stahl headers, complemented with an 037 distributor.

been up and running for a few weeks, 3 oil changes and smooth as butter.

Last tank of gas yeilded 27mpg Hwy.

Getting set for a few runs on a Dyno

[Guest_anonymous]

What to take apart next ?

[Guest_anonymous]

Itching for a different powerband, I called Jim Rowe over at Metric Mechanic for advice on tuning the 40DFAV. First thing he said: over cammed and I could compensate with a set of DCOE but best be served by coming off to a 292.

Hence a (cheap...Ha!) pair of side drafts. Offered a thread regarding jetting at altitude but before I even finished throwing linkage and air filters on, I was smoking.

Compression 90# on #2 and leak through intake valve same cylinder.

Off came the head. Intake guide pulled from the casting and forced the valve to start crashing off the seat. Also just discovered a crack between the valves in the same cylinder.

Abandoned the head. Picked up a long block locally ( thanks Cal) Sold the K300 and going to put in a 292. Stripped the head. It checked out at the machine shop. Initially was going to use the current bottom end, but, discovered a flaw in the rim of cylinder 4 and was not going to risk another head gasket ordeal.

Stripped the block

Dip Head & Block

Mill head w/timing cover

r/r exhaust valves

valve job

mic and polish crank

inspect pistons and punch block to match

r/r gudgeon pin bushes

4 bills.

now to reassemble after a few paychecks.

[Guest_anonymous]

Thought to add a little eye candy now that I was finely able to pull it into the garage in the new house