Fuel pump inlet screen

[bmw2002tiidriver]

I am cleaning out my fuel tank and replacing/cleaning all the screens on my tii. I went to take out the screen in the fuel pump inlet, and found there isn't one there. I have been told that this is NLA, so do any of you guys have an extra? Is it terrible to run without this?

[c.d.iesel]

in theory the fine strainer in the tank should cover

it - but every filter helps with a fuel injection system.

Look to VW/VOLVO/MERCEDES-BENZ/SAAB pump suppliers for

the insert screen for the pump

[bmw2002tiidriver]

What models should I look at? Also this is only semi-related and a noob question, but is the banjo bolt on the Kfish the bolt at the front where the line from the filter connects to the Kfish?

[lilmo]

What models should I look at? Also this is only semi-related and a noob question, but is the banjo bolt on the Kfish the bolt at the front where the line from the filter connects to the Kfish?

Yup. Fuel in from the supply (filter), fuel out to 1)cold start valve and 2) kfish.

[bmw2002tiidriver]

Ok cool. So when I take that bolt off to clean the screen there, how much should I tighten it when I put it back on? Just as tight as I can or is there a torque number?

[lilmo]

Ok cool. So when I take that bolt off to clean the screen there, how much should I tighten it when I put it back on? Just as tight as I can or is there a torque number?

I'm sure there is a torque figure, and there are a couple washers in there that you should replace, too.

[FB73tii]

Yes, there is a crush washer on either side of the banjo bolt. I just tighten by hand to feel. Don't over tighten and strip!

FYI, when I checked my KF mini-cylindrical screen years ago ago I found it was disintegrating and pulled it out. Like the fuel pump screen, not critical, but nice to have. Recently put in a clean one from a donor pump.

Also, even if you are tempted don't remove the fitting on the back of the KF pump that holds the return pressure regulator unless you have the right O-ring for it. For some reason I recently wanted to "inspect" mine and lo and behold, a 35-year old dried out O-ring does not seal when you put it back in! This has been reported by various folks, do a search for more info.

While many people get KF pumps rebuilt, mine (from the '73tii, now in the '74 shell) has over 340,000 miles on it and has never been touched. This includes roughly 25,000 track miles. Replaced the KF belt in about 1988 (it broke) and again recently as preventative maintenance. In my experience as long as they don't sit idle the KF pumps last a long time.

Fred '74tii

[jgerock]

Yes, there is a crush washer on either side of the banjo bolt. I just tighten by hand to feel. Don't over tighten and strip!

FYI, when I checked my KF mini-cylindrical screen years ago ago I found it was disintegrating and pulled it out. Like the fuel pump screen, not critical, but nice to have. Recently put in a clean one from a donor pump.

Also, even if you are tempted don't remove the fitting on the back of the KF pump that holds the return pressure regulator unless you have the right O-ring for it. For some reason I recently wanted to "inspect" mine and lo and behold, a 35-year old dried out O-ring does not seal when you put it back in! This has been reported by various folks, do a search for more info.

While many people get KF pumps rebuilt, mine (from the '73tii, now in the '74 shell) has over 340,000 miles on it and has never been touched. This includes roughly 25,000 track miles. Replaced the KF belt in about 1988 (it broke) and again recently as preventative maintenance. In my experience as long as they don't sit idle the KF pumps last a long time.

Fred '74tii

+1 on what Fred says. If the car is running well, don't mess with the pump. Clean/replace the in-tank fuel screen, the conical shaped one at the fuel pump, the barrel-shaped one at the KF banjo bolt and the tiny one at the cold start valve inlet (if you can remove it). Don't remove the pressure maintenance valve at the back of the KF pump unless you have a good spare sealing 0-ring.

A good initial test is to connect a fuel pressure gauge and see if your pump is delivering about 28 psi.