engine and drivetrain Newbie. 1967 1600 4dr(Turns out: Oct 1965)

[savvy]

I'm not sure yet where the fluid came from. It wasn't there the day I first saw it. However, on that day the brake peddle felt very soft. The clutch was peddle was stuck. After giving it a little more foot pressure, I heard a "pop". The peddle went to the floor and stayed there. It moves free, but does not return. The fluid looks like it is dripping down near the differential. It definitely is brake/clutch fluid. There is also grease/oil dripping from the CV boots that are both torn.

The right rear wheel, though rolls when being dragged by the tow truck winch, is frozen when lifted off the ground.

It's definitely more of a project then I had hoped.

My last project of this type was with a 1934 Ford Fordor Sedan that had been sitting for 16 years. Added gas, changed the oil, put air in the tires and drove the 10 blocks home.

This one might be on blocks for a while as I begin to become intimately familiar with the under carriage.

P>S. Yes, second engine, the original engine is still on a palate in the original owners garage. Hopefully I can get that in the future.

Cheers!

[jmon0261]

Nice find ! Looks like a great start. How did you find it ?

[savvy]

I first rode in it to go to Kirkwood Ski area around 1974 or so.

It belonged to a Cal Straw Hat Band friend of my father's.

The guy has been a patient of mine (dentist) for years. I knew that he had it. He needed some dental work, (implant). I asked if he wanted to trade dental work for the car....he did......that was over 2 years ago.

It took him 2 years to "say goodbye." Lately, I more or less forced the issue, I didn't want him passing away suddenly without getting my goods.

He was a little sad watching it go.

Hopefully, this won't be a huge project to get it to "driver" state.

Right now it sits in my garage facing in. Not much room to work ( the garage is only 17 feet deep, 15.5 feet due to the work bench.

I hope to repair the necessary rear end issues, drag it back out into the drive way, spin it using the floor jack and back it in to work on the front end and clutch issue. The wife will never agree for it to sit in the driveway, as our neighborhood has close to zero street parking when we need it.

(needless to say, she drives the Acura, the Rangie gets parked on the street, the '34 Ford resides at my folks house).

First task is to remove the rear wheels and drums and figure out how to put on new rubber CV boots. Any advice from any of you wise one's?

[tjones02]

First task is to remove the rear wheels and drums and figure out how to put on new rubber CV boots. Any advice from any of you wise one's?

The rear axle boots are not rubber but a white neoprene type material. They hold in oil not grease...

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,339756/highlight,boot/

I can't find the thread now but there's one in here somewhere that describes the procedure for replacing those. (It's a bi-ch) I've done quite a few over the years. If you'd like you can bring us the axles and I'll change the boots for you.

The procedure is in the factory manuals for both the NKs and '02s.

HTH

[savvy]

Very cool!!!!

As per bmwgroup.com:

"The BMW 1600 VIN 937209 was manufactured on October 14th, 1965 and delivered on October 19th, 1965 to the BMW importer Hoffman Motors Corp. in New York City. The original colour was Turf, paint code 073."

So, does that make it a late '65 model year, or an early '66?

[savvy]

Tom, Thanks for the info and offer.

You might see me. It all depends on my frustration level.

As for the boot itself. I'm pretty sure my boots are black.

When I googled up the part, two items appeared.

One was a Clear/white boot as you describe (33 21 3 614 150 @ $21.95 without ring clamps), and, a kit containing black boots w/ ring clamps (33 21 1 207 036 @ $12.95). Both from Bavarian Auto Sport.

However, the earliest year to choose was 1967.

My car was built in 1965.

Which is the correct one?

Cheers!

[mcmil]

Rear axles should look like pic 2. Same as early 1600-2.

Not hard to install: Unbolt axles carefully, the boots are the only thing that holds the big end in place if it's not in the car! Recommend putting down LOTS of clean newspaper prior to removal. The big end has many little loose roller bearing pins that are NLA and a b*tch to find more!

Disassemble the big end taking care not to damage the big clamp (ALSO NLA!). Clean all the internal parts and surfaces.

While all the internals are off, boil the boot in a pot of water to get it to soften. Strech the small boot end over the pin in the shaft end taking care not to rip or split the boot. You can use a smallish screwdriver to help lever the boot over the pin.Once the boot is on, ressemble the joint using axle grease to hold the pins in place while you put it back together.

[tjones02]

Yours should be the white ones if the axles are still the original sliding joint style...

IF your axles have boots on both sides of each axle and appear black they have been changed to the later CV joint style.

Here's an example of an early white boot, note that there's blue oil in there making the boot appear.... blue. This is from a '67 1600-2, the boots are the same.

[savvy]

Will rear drums and shoes for a '67 1600 fit my '65?

All the parts houses I have found on line list the earliest year as 1967.

Thanks!

[NickVyse]

As for the boot itself. I'm pretty sure my boots are black.

black with filth - here's mine. Previous owner has obviously filled them with grease once they split.

[savvy]

OK.....

You guys win.

Will brake and clutch parts that fit a '67 fit my '65?

[NickVyse]

OK.....

You guys win.

Will brake and clutch parts that fit a '67 fit my '65?

probably is your definitive answer!

[tjones02]

So, does that make it.... an early '66?

Yes.

Will rear drums and shoes for a '67 1600 fit my '65?

All the parts houses I have found on line list the earliest year as 1967.

Thanks!

NO!

Most of the "parts houses" catalogs refer to 1600-2's or 1602s when they are showing parts, not 1600-4 NK cars!

The catalog at RealOEM is your friend. http://realoem.com/bmw/select.do Though there are "missing" part numbers/pages due to stuff being NLA. A few of us have sets of the original parts books that are complete. I'd be happy to look up the correct part number of anything you need, even scan a page or two if necessary. Use the price listings at RealOEM only as a rough reference, they are usually out of date/inacurate.

Your rear brake hardware (drums and shoes) are the "250mm" style and using catalogs such as BavAuto you should refer to a 320i for those. Example, here's the breakdown for every BMW the rear brake shoes fit.

http://realoem.com/bmw/partxref.do?part=34211159588&showus=on&showeur=on

Your rear wheel cylinders are unique to the NK and will need to come from a BMW dealer or another specialty source like BluntTech.com or BimmerDoc.com or special ordered from BavAuto through BMW. A few of the parts guys at Weatherford are very good and helpful.... IF you supply them with the part numbers.

[savvy]

Great info!!

Thanks.

When it comes to addressing the various cylinders (wheel, brake master, clutch master and slave), are these rebuildable or does one generally replace them?

[mcmil]

All rebuildable. Kits turn up on eBay fairly often and I think I might have some kits hanging around here near Half Moon Bay.