The Heist.

[Guest]

Those wheels won't fit with out flares. I've got 15x8 et15's and they clear the strut housings by 3, maybe 4mm. You'll probably need something bigger than turbo flares to fit 9's, I've got 225/50R15's and they'll probably be rubbing the flares once the car is complete.

As for install, it's pretty simple but time consuming. Once you're ready to put the flares on get a friend to come over and hold them in place while you drill and rivet them on. I did it myself and it was a PITA.

About halfway down the page is my install. I'd recommend trying to put them higher up if possible, I may end up re-doing mine and moving them up another half inch since there is still a bit of clearance to be gained at the top of the wheel well.

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,50/page,viewtopic/t,348104/

[heist]

That was one of my big fears, 16x9.0 4x100 15 57.1 3.0" would probably hit the strut housing huh? I was just going to run more negative camber to make it fit, but now I'm running out of ideas.

Really want to go the fuel injection route instead of the carb too. I'm probably going to be pming you with a lot of questions since you are doing exactly what I want to do. Hope thats ok.

[Guest]

No problem. I'll be sorting through the MS over spring break(end of march for me) and fingers crossed have it running.

I was looking at going with some super fatties, 15x10R 15x9F but there isn't anything available besides custom 3-pc which cost 2k minimum/set of 4. Then I decided to scale back my plans so I can realistically finish the car, get my volvo done, and put some money towards my agave.

16x8 et0 would fit great, not sure what you'd run for tires, probably 225/35R16 if they exist.

[heist]

No problem. I'll be sorting through the MS over spring break(end of march for me) and fingers crossed have it running.

I was looking at going with some super fatties, 15x10R 15x9F but there isn't anything available besides custom 3-pc which cost 2k minimum/set of 4. Then I decided to scale back my plans so I can realistically finish the car, get my volvo done, and put some money towards my agave.

16x8 et0 would fit great, not sure what you'd run for tires, probably 225/35R16 if they exist.

Ok great what MS are you going with?

Yeah same boat for me I don't want to spend double what I paid for the car in wheels. Makes sense to finish the car first.

The only offset options I have for the 16x9 are 20 and 15. I'm prepared to fight the fender flares to make them fit, but I'm just concerned they will hit the strut. Can you confirm that they will or won't?

[heist]

How much does the e30 front and rear suspension differ from the 2002? The front looks really similiar.

[rey949]

Very nice...I like it! You can fit the wheels as long as you get the offset right and notch the trailing arms slightly. You definitely wont have problems with caliper size and clearance with 16s.

[rey949]

Very nice...I like it! You can fit the wheels as long as you get the offset right and notch the trailing arms slightly. You definitely wont have problems with caliper size and clearance with 16s.

[Guest]

Ok great what MS are you going with?

Yeah same boat for me I don't want to spend double what I paid for the car in wheels. Makes sense to finish the car first.

The only offset options I have for the 16x9 are 20 and 15. I'm prepared to fight the fender flares to make them fit, but I'm just concerned they will hit the strut. Can you confirm that they will or won't?

MSII. It should be good to go, came from my friends car with the motor, everything was running fine until he decided to part the car to fund his supercharged M60 V8 in E30 M3 build, which has now transitioned to supercharging the S52 in his daily because he doesn't have the funds for the M3 build atm. However, the MS is all apart and not labeled so it will take me a day of sorting and I'll be running a different turbo so the tune will need to be adjusted.

Neither of those offsets will fit with out 15-20mm spacers. with 9's et0 is pretty much the minimum, -5 would fit the best. Just like my 15x8's, et10 would be perfect but they barely clear as is(et15) so I'm going to hope it stays clear while driving. I can't confirm 100% because I've never tried, but I'm 99% sure. Easy way to check would be to find the backspacing in inches and build your self a little template out of wood.

[heist]

Ok great what MS are you going with?

Yeah same boat for me I don't want to spend double what I paid for the car in wheels. Makes sense to finish the car first.

The only offset options I have for the 16x9 are 20 and 15. I'm prepared to fight the fender flares to make them fit, but I'm just concerned they will hit the strut. Can you confirm that they will or won't?

MSII. It should be good to go, came from my friends car with the motor, everything was running fine until he decided to part the car to fund his supercharged M60 V8 in E30 M3 build, which has now transitioned to supercharging the S52 in his daily because he doesn't have the funds for the M3 build atm. However, the MS is all apart and not labeled so it will take me a day of sorting and I'll be running a different turbo so the tune will need to be adjusted.

Neither of those offsets will fit with out 15-20mm spacers. with 9's et0 is pretty much the minimum, -5 would fit the best. Just like my 15x8's, et10 would be perfect but they barely clear as is(et15) so I'm going to hope it stays clear while driving. I can't confirm 100% because I've never tried, but I'm 99% sure. Easy way to check would be to find the backspacing in inches and build your self a little template out of wood.

Get your friend back on that build sounds solid. Ok understandable. I'm brand new to the whole idea of a diy ecu so I'm going to get reading soon between classes. What is the offset being held back by? not clearing the suspension? I feel so in the dark because I have been neglecting my research into this. I'm not too enthusiastic about spacers might have to get wheels custom made.

I also want to run the BC racing coilovers that people are retrofitting for the e30 if its possible. If you have any input on this if its possible or not? I know the welding situation is not recommended, but I have a professional shop that can make it work.

[Guest]

What is the offset being held back by? not clearing the suspension?

I also want to run the BC racing coilovers that people are retrofitting for the e30 if its possible.

The offset will not clear the struts in front and trailing arms/shocks in back. It will hit the foot-well when turning and probably hit the lower portion of the rear shock towers. Spacers really aren't that bad, at 20mm you could get ones that bolt to your hub and then the wheel bolts to the studs in the spacers. Some of the volvo guys are running 30-35mm bolt on spacers on their track/autoX cars because no one makes performance-oriented wheels in low offset 5x108.

The E30 suspension is quite different, it may look the same but nothing is interchangeable with out serious fab work. For coilovers you can get the same results with a setup from Ireland Engineering. Their coilover sleeve kit(140$), springs(140$), shortened bilstein inserts(280$, can be custom valved iirc), and adjustable camber plates(295$) will do just fine. The BC racing ones may have more external adjustment, but it's really not worth it. On a street car, damper settings are "set and forget" imo. The only time you really need adjustable dampers is when you're racing and need to change your setup to suit the track. Even then, a majority of the people on this forum would be better off not screwing with damper settings and just practicing driving techniques more, myself included.

[heist]

What is the offset being held back by? not clearing the suspension?

I also want to run the BC racing coilovers that people are retrofitting for the e30 if its possible.

The offset will not clear the struts in front and trailing arms/shocks in back. It will hit the foot-well when turning and probably hit the lower portion of the rear shock towers. Spacers really aren't that bad, at 20mm you could get ones that bolt to your hub and then the wheel bolts to the studs in the spacers. Some of the volvo guys are running 30-35mm bolt on spacers on their track/autoX cars because no one makes performance-oriented wheels in low offset 5x108.

The E30 suspension is quite different, it may look the same but nothing is interchangeable with out serious fab work. For coilovers you can get the same results with a setup from Ireland Engineering. Their coilover sleeve kit(140$), springs(140$), shortened bilstein inserts(280$, can be custom valved iirc), and adjustable camber plates(295$) will do just fine. The BC racing ones may have more external adjustment, but it's really not worth it. On a street car, damper settings are "set and forget" imo. The only time you really need adjustable dampers is when you're racing and need to change your setup to suit the track. Even then, a majority of the people on this forum would be better off not screwing with damper settings and just practicing driving techniques more, myself included.

Perfect thanks for the insight on the offset. I will have to get 0 or something in the -'s.

The hunt begins for:

- Size 16x9, 15x9 etc

- Offset (0, or - something)

- Center Bore 57.1

- Bolt Pattern 4x100

I found some old school Volk Racing Wheels - TE37V that might work, but the bore is 63 or something.

I have spent some time on IR. The setup would look like this right

Rear Adjustable Coil Over Kit - New Design $575.00

Adjustable Front Spring Perch Kit $120.00

Adjustable Camber Plates for Racing $295.00

Special 2002 Rear Race Springs $145.00

2.5" ID race Springs $150.00

Shortened Bilstein Front Inserts for 2002 race cars. $280.00

Total: $1,565.00 plus tax.

I asked about the BC coils for a cheaper alternative and from what I was reading people manage to get more clearance for the wheels, but sounds like its not worth looking into. I wish I had more options on as far as coils.

[Guest]

I found some old school Volk Racing Wheels - TE37V that might work, but the bore is 63 or something.

I have spent some time on IR. The setup would look like this right

Rear Adjustable Coil Over Kit - New Design $575.00

Adjustable Front Spring Perch Kit $120.00

Adjustable Camber Plates for Racing $295.00

Special 2002 Rear Race Springs $145.00

2.5" ID race Springs $150.00

Shortened Bilstein Front Inserts for 2002 race cars. $280.00

Total: $1,565.00 plus tax.

I know tirerack sells lots of bore sleeve rings which might cover the volk wheels you're thinking of, I'm not sure what diameters they stock though. Might want to call them. Look at Miata wheels, there are tons available and some with lower offset.

Oops, should have looked at the prices more, I was just going off the top of my head. In regards to the rears, their rear coilover kit includes the springs, their rear race springs are for cars using bilsteins or other dampers with springs in the stock location.

So your options for the rear are

1) IE rear coilover kit, 575$

2) IE "race" springs(145$) and bilstein's(~175$)

The only downside of rear coilovers is the rear strut towers really need to be reinforced because all of the springs energy is going into that little top hat, stock only the damper is attached there and the spring rests on a different/thick lower perch.

Personally, I'll be caging(tied into the shock tower) my turbo car eventually but for now I'm just going with the race springs and bilsteins, because I=broke. I may go coilover in the future. My street car has eibach springs and bilsteins, but it's more of a "bolt on parts" resto-mod and not that low.

[heist]

I know tirerack sells lots of bore sleeve rings which might cover the volk wheels you're thinking of, I'm not sure what diameters they stock though. Might want to call them. Look at Miata wheels, there are tons available and some with lower offset.

Oops, should have looked at the prices more, I was just going off the top of my head. In regards to the rears, their rear coilover kit includes the springs, their rear race springs are for cars using bilsteins or other dampers with springs in the stock location.

So your options for the rear are

1) IE rear coilover kit, 575$

2) IE "race" springs(145$) and bilstein's(~175$)

The only downside of rear coilovers is the rear strut towers really need to be reinforced because all of the springs energy is going into that little top hat, stock only the damper is attached there and the spring rests on a different/thick lower perch.

Personally, I'll be caging(tied into the shock tower) my turbo car eventually but for now I'm just going with the race springs and bilsteins, because I=broke. I may go coilover in the future. My street car has eibach springs and bilsteins, but it's more of a "bolt on parts" resto-mod and not that low.

I was looking through the vw forums for wheels, but the miata sounds like a good idea. I just really like the look of old school volks, but yeah once I figure out the suspension I will get that all sorted out.

I read about the problem with the weak shock towers. I was going to add a brace also just to be safe.

I'm planning to get the stance right the first time so I want to do a full coilover. I tried to do the spring and shock game with my G35 had 4 or 5 setups. Huge waste of money. I found this thread about a guy running GC E30 coils that really sparked my attention.

The front:

The back:

Really need to look more into this.

I'm starting to get a kick in the face on how much a welder is going to be needed. I have done everything, but sat down and bought a welder. Do you have any recommendations on a decently priced welder (mig with gas seems sufficient )?

[roadhog0]

Millermatic 140, we have 135's at school that get beat on everyday and after 7 years or so of being beat on by morons they are starting to knock off. So I would say a 140, they are the new 135, it's a good choice for a hobbyist and will last you much longer than ours at school.

[heist]

Millermatic 140, we have 135's at school that get beat on everyday and after 7 years or so of being beat on by morons they are starting to knock off. So I would say a 140, they are the new 135, it's a good choice for a hobbyist and will last you much longer than ours at school.

Perfect. I will look into it. Trying to get one of the local craigslist. I have never welded in my life so this should be interesting.