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More pics of my cracked pressure plate


nbristow01

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A pic of the disc and of the other side of the pressure plate. All looks fine. Interesting though, besides the knocking noise...if you did not ease out the clutch pedal after a gear shift you could hear a groan sound from the tranny and feel it in the pedal. The groan sound seemed like the sound of a disc slipping on a pressure plate briefly. So I just have driven very conservatively. Never popping the clutch and always releasing slow. But that also bring up th e other issue I had of the clutch releasing very high. Maybe it is all related to a bad pressure plate?

post-17424-13667633562794_thumb.jpg

post-17424-13667633564483_thumb.jpg

I'm not as dumb as I look

74 Verona

06 Audi A3

09 Mercedes C300

06 VW Passat

03 VW Conv Beetle

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when installing the pressure plate over the friction disk,

there should be little tension - or very little to pull the pressure

plate to the flywheel surface. If yours sat high and required a lot

of 'pulling' down to be flush with the flywheel - then you have, and will repear the failure. How the flywheel is surfaced - including a "step"

is important. There should be a step between the friction surface

of the flywheel, and the outer Dia. surface that the pressure plate

mounts to. If your pressure plate sat high during the installation,

you may have tightened it down cockeyed,

causing the stress and eventual crack we see today ?

'86 R65 650cc #6128390 22,000m
'64 R27 250cc #383851 18,000m
'11 FORD Transit #T058971 28,000m "Truckette"
'13 500 ABARTH #DT600282 6,666m "TAZIO"

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when installing the pressure plate over the friction disk,

there should be little tension - or very little to pull the pressure

plate to the flywheel surface

I don't know where you get this from CD, but it's not right- when

you install a pressure plate, you're completely preloading

the spring to clamp the friction disc. It should sit maybe 1/4" high just sitting there.

Then when you tighten the bolts, it sucks the plate in and clamps up the friction

surface.

However, if the step was too large in diameter, THAT could do it. It'd wedge the

inside edge up, and distort the bell, putting a lot of odd strain on it.

The step should be just the size of the friction disk.

As to step depth, .5mm seems to be the stock size- but I've run

1mm with no ill effect.

I still think you should cut the rivets and see what it looks like on the inside....

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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Nick,

Is the hole (second photo, going clockwise from the bolt hole at 3 o'clock position) ok. Is that a clean hole or is something in it?

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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