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Adjusting a Weber Carb: Fact or Fiction


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http://www.carburetion.com/weber/adjust.htm

I found this site which makes it look really easy. Some I have spoken to have said that it is really complex and that i need special tools for readings. And if I do it wrong I can really screw up my car.

Have anyone adjusted their own Webers? Is this article above correct. I've located a few with the same information.

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When I was running a carb, it worked for me. Seems the rule on too much/too little turns on the idle screw is telling you about the idle jet because when you are on very light throttle, you are actually running on the idle jet. If it is wrong the transition to main jet will be boggy or lean, depending which way off the idle jet size is. Get it right and it is a smooth transition.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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http://www.carburetion.com/weber/adjust.htm

I found this site which makes it look really easy. Some I have spoken to have said that it is really complex and that i need special tools for readings. And if I do it wrong I can really screw up my car.

Have anyone adjusted their own Webers? Is this article above correct. I've located a few with the same information.

That's a good baseline to start from to get a feel for it. I don't really believe most of the rules pertaining to the number of turns, though. If you're more than their 'limits,' I wouldn't be too worried.

I also don't see it mentioning checking the spark plugs. I'd try to do close to what they say, then look at your spark plugs and see how close you are to being right. If it's a nice brown/tan, you're near perfect. If it's too black, it's too rich of a mixture. If it's too white, then it's too lean.

Don't be afraid of trying it out. Sure, you can delve deeper into more complex tuning with different jets and such, but just getting the idle smooth and the spark plug to look a nice brown/tan is close enough for me most of the time. If it stalls out under high fuel demand, or floods itself, then you need to adjust the float.

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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http://www.carburetion.com/weber/adjust.htm

I found this site which makes it look really easy. Some I have spoken to have said that it is really complex and that i need special tools for readings. And if I do it wrong I can really screw up my car.

Have anyone adjusted their own Webers? Is this article above correct. I've located a few with the same information.

That's a good baseline to start from to get a feel for it. I don't really believe most of the rules pertaining to the number of turns, though. If you're more than their 'limits,' I wouldn't be too worried.

I also don't see it mentioning checking the spark plugs. I'd try to do close to what they say, then look at your spark plugs and see how close you are to being right. If it's a nice brown/tan, you're near perfect. If it's too black, it's too rich of a mixture. If it's too white, then it's too lean.

Don't be afraid of trying it out. Sure, you can delve deeper into more complex tuning with different jets and such, but just getting the idle smooth and the spark plug to look a nice brown/tan is close enough for me most of the time. If it stalls out under high fuel demand, or floods itself, then you need to adjust the float.

i found the smoothest idle by using the mixture screw only with the idle speed screw back completely off the throttle. i then turned the idle speed screw just a hair into the throttle and that was it. i'm idling around 700.

are the plugs smaller than standard? i tried removing them with a standard socket and couldn't grip anything. Weird. And i've changed many plugs on different cars.

PREVIOUS:

1979 Jeep Cherokee

1980 VW Scirocco

1983 Porsche 944

1986 BMW 325i

1999 VW GTI VR6

2000 BMW 323

2000 Porsche Boxster

2001 BMW X5

2003 Porsche 911

2003 Mini Cooper S

2005 BMW Z4

1974 BMW 2002

Current:

1995 BMW M3

2003 Infiniti FX35

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Share on other sites

When I was running a carb, it worked for me. Seems the rule on too much/too little turns on the idle screw is telling you about the idle jet because when you are on very light throttle, you are actually running on the idle jet. If it is wrong the transition to main jet will be boggy or lean, depending which way off the idle jet size is. Get it right and it is a smooth transition.

the way i read it was smoothest idle as possible with just mixture then bump it up to 700-900 with idle screw?

the cars runs fine imo i'm just having issues with really bad gas mileage

PREVIOUS:

1979 Jeep Cherokee

1980 VW Scirocco

1983 Porsche 944

1986 BMW 325i

1999 VW GTI VR6

2000 BMW 323

2000 Porsche Boxster

2001 BMW X5

2003 Porsche 911

2003 Mini Cooper S

2005 BMW Z4

1974 BMW 2002

Current:

1995 BMW M3

2003 Infiniti FX35

Link to comment
Share on other sites

http://www.carburetion.com/weber/adjust.htm

I found this site which makes it look really easy. Some I have spoken to have said that it is really complex and that i need special tools for readings. And if I do it wrong I can really screw up my car.

Have anyone adjusted their own Webers? Is this article above correct. I've located a few with the same information.

That's a good baseline to start from to get a feel for it. I don't really believe most of the rules pertaining to the number of turns, though. If you're more than their 'limits,' I wouldn't be too worried.

I also don't see it mentioning checking the spark plugs. I'd try to do close to what they say, then look at your spark plugs and see how close you are to being right. If it's a nice brown/tan, you're near perfect. If it's too black, it's too rich of a mixture. If it's too white, then it's too lean.

Don't be afraid of trying it out. Sure, you can delve deeper into more complex tuning with different jets and such, but just getting the idle smooth and the spark plug to look a nice brown/tan is close enough for me most of the time. If it stalls out under high fuel demand, or floods itself, then you need to adjust the float.

i found the smoothest idle by using the mixture screw only with the idle speed screw back completely off the throttle. i then turned the idle speed screw just a hair into the throttle and that was it. i'm idling around 700.

are the plugs smaller than standard? i tried removing them with a standard socket and couldn't grip anything. Weird. And i've changed many plugs on different cars.

A 13/16" spark plug socket should work fine. My standard Craftsman toolkit comes with two spark plug sockets, a 13/16" and a 5/8", and those have worked for everything for me, from mopeds to lawnmowers to motorcycles to cars.

Maybe somebody put some weird plugs in your engine, or you're not diggin into them right.

Bring a Welder

1974 2002, 1965 Datsun L320 truck, 1981 Yamaha XS400, 1983 Yamaha RX50, 1992 Miata Miata drivetrain waiting on a Locost frame, 1999 Toyota Land Cruiser

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http://www.carburetion.com/weber/adjust.htm

I found this site which makes it look really easy. Some I have spoken to have said that it is really complex and that i need special tools for readings. And if I do it wrong I can really screw up my car.

Have anyone adjusted their own Webers? Is this article above correct. I've located a few with the same information.

That's a good baseline to start from to get a feel for it. I don't really believe most of the rules pertaining to the number of turns, though. If you're more than their 'limits,' I wouldn't be too worried.

I also don't see it mentioning checking the spark plugs. I'd try to do close to what they say, then look at your spark plugs and see how close you are to being right. If it's a nice brown/tan, you're near perfect. If it's too black, it's too rich of a mixture. If it's too white, then it's too lean.

Don't be afraid of trying it out. Sure, you can delve deeper into more complex tuning with different jets and such, but just getting the idle smooth and the spark plug to look a nice brown/tan is close enough for me most of the time. If it stalls out under high fuel demand, or floods itself, then you need to adjust the float.

i found the smoothest idle by using the mixture screw only with the idle speed screw back completely off the throttle. i then turned the idle speed screw just a hair into the throttle and that was it. i'm idling around 700.

are the plugs smaller than standard? i tried removing them with a standard socket and couldn't grip anything. Weird. And i've changed many plugs on different cars.

A 13/16" spark plug socket should work fine. My standard Craftsman toolkit comes with two spark plug sockets, a 13/16" and a 5/8", and those have worked for everything for me, from mopeds to lawnmowers to motorcycles to cars.

Maybe somebody put some weird plugs in your engine, or you're not diggin into them right.

I had been trying the 5/8". Thanks, will try the 13/16.

PREVIOUS:

1979 Jeep Cherokee

1980 VW Scirocco

1983 Porsche 944

1986 BMW 325i

1999 VW GTI VR6

2000 BMW 323

2000 Porsche Boxster

2001 BMW X5

2003 Porsche 911

2003 Mini Cooper S

2005 BMW Z4

1974 BMW 2002

Current:

1995 BMW M3

2003 Infiniti FX35

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For the older, coarse threaded idle screw that's a good guideline.

Some newer carbs have a much finer thread, and they seem to fall

in the 1.5- 4 turn 'best window' between idle and progression.

Because what the 'turn range' does is actually set the size of the

progression jet by using the idle mixture as an indicator...

fwiw,

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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