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Marty

Solex
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Everything posted by Marty

  1. I had it on my 75 and my 76 both were automatics I don't know if that has any bearing on the situation or not. I don't have them on my 74 or my 74 Tii. I think there used with the thermal reactor.
  2. Ha Ha it reminds me of my old bug eye sprite back in the day you could only get Koni's for the rear and we used to "tune" the front shocks by mixing STP and atf in different ratios for the Armstrong lever shocks in front, I still have the pan we used to heat the stuff up in to get it thin enough to pour into the Armstrong's, it worked pretty well too, after they warmed up a bit anyway.
  3. With the car turned off have someone press the gas pedal to the floor while you look down the carb see if the throttle plate is all the way open, if not report back and we will give you the run down on the adjustments.
  4. Yeah for the next couple of weeks everything you see will need just a little welding to make it right. Its been said before but its always worth putting out there Do you have a FIRE EXTIQSHER in your shop in a fixed place where you can grab it in a hurry. When welding on cars I always keep a 5 gallon bucket with a old bath towel soaking in water near by for small under coating/seam sealer fires this works well for small fires and will also chill the surrounding metal to prevent re ignition.
  5. Yes for general work use nitrile gloves they do add some protection from cuts and keep your hands from getting dirty and torn up. I always have 2 types in my shop because I'm cheap, first I have a box of dema-lite gloves from Napa they are real tough and long lasting and run about 11 bucks a box, then I have a box from Harbor freight that I use for quick jobs around the shop but they don't last near as long. Be sure to stash a handful of gloves in your car for road repairs and most importantly if your called on to provide first aid you'll at least have a first barrier of protection against infection.
  6. The Machanix brand are pretty good especially when you don't need maximum dexterity like disassembling big things like pulling the tranny not much good for rebuilding a carb though.
  7. What Jack said and for thin sheet metal get a roll of .023 wire and tip, The best mod I made on my Hobart 120 was getting a liner just for .023 wire instead of using the normal .030 liner and a .023 tip as is usually done this gave me a much steadier spark especially when welding out of position like overhead. I have a good Dewalt 4 1/2" I use for heavy grinding and cutting but I also have 2 cheap Harbor Fright 4 1/2"ers that don't have the power for the heavy stuff but work well with a sanding disk or a wire wheel you can get these on sale with a coupon for about $12.50 and they will save a bunch of time and hassle changing disks and wheels, for me they last about 18 months or so then I just toss them and get another.
  8. Yes the k-fish is a extreme high pressure system developed from a diesel pump. In my way of thought probably the best way to enrichen it to follow boost is to use a variable pressure relief valve controlled by manifold pressure so the higher the boost the higher the return pressure, the k-fish pump is simply a multiplier of the input pressure so more pressure on the pump inlet = more fuel out.
  9. If I understand you correctly you want to plumb the k-jet into the high side of the k-fisher lines to add fuel during boost, this may be problematic as the k-fisher high side is running 500 to 700 psi and the k-jet is running around 60-75 psi.
  10. Yeah it was running good and hardly burned any oil, I had to really try to get it to puff smoke but this may be due to a small decrease in compression due to worn rings more than anything else. The problem is I just dumped most of my car cash on my M20 project and it will be a while before the coffers are full again so I have to be cheap here, if I rebuild the head I'll have to at least rering the engine (the bores look real nice so maybe just a quick hone) I might just replace the rockers that are broken and see if I can keep her running until the M20 is on the road and then do a real rebuild.
  11. Trying to set the record for the longest running unmolested Tii engine has come to a halt at 293,821 miles with out the engine being taken apart, a victim of 2 broken rocker arms, one broke from metal fatigue and the other from the broken piece getting caught under the rocker. So I have a very worn bottom end and if I rebuild the head it won't take long to blow out the bottom end so I think I'll just replace the rockers and put it all together, I just need about 6 more months until I get my M20 conversion running and the the Tii gets a much needed restoration. The good news is upon disassembly I found #4 injection line had just about been rubbed through by the breather hose so the whole car could have gone up in flames.
  12. When double clamping be sure to set the clamps 180' apart if you put both clamps in line you can pull a pucker into the hose under the screw part and over tightening just makes it worse.
  13. A Hobart 135 will be all the welder you need for a week end 2002 mechanic. what 2002targa said about the Lincoln weld pac is true it's made for box stores only in fact they make welders to different specs for ether Home Depot or Lowes although they look the same on the out side. Miller is probably the top of the line in general with Lincoln (bought at a real welding store) a close 2nd and Hobart is a close 3rd more of a good hobby welder, in the 120v class all 3 of these are real close in quality, when you get into the larger welders the differance gets more pronounced. Don't forget to factor in a good auto darkining helmet and the gas bottle in your price plus a 4" grinder if you don't have one.
  14. You mean that's not Esty.
  15. You mean that's not Esty.
  16. All m10 valve covers have all 6 studs the same size, the larger one on your car is the result of the p.o. stripping a stud and being too cheap to helicoil it. the fix would be to helicoil it but it might be drilled out too large now.
  17. All m10 valve covers have all 6 studs the same size, the larger one on your car is the result of the p.o. stripping a stud and being too cheap to helicoil it. the fix would be to helicoil it but it might be drilled out too large now.
  18. It's not Johnny selling it but I bet it's our old freind Al Canuck.
  19. It's not Johnny selling it but I bet it's our old freind Al Canuck.
  20. Well with Bilsteins the first thing to check is if the shock still self extends, if you collapse it and it doesnt extend again on its own then its shot, if it extends then there's no way water can get in as the gas would have to leak out first.
  21. Well with Bilsteins the first thing to check is if the shock still self extends, if you collapse it and it doesnt extend again on its own then its shot, if it extends then there's no way water can get in as the gas would have to leak out first.
  22. You can get thin rubber washers at Lowes just unscrew the knob and put one in then when you tighten the knob the rubber gives a little grip between the two hard surfaces and it won't slip.
  23. You can get thin rubber washers at Lowes just unscrew the knob and put one in then when you tighten the knob the rubber gives a little grip between the two hard surfaces and it won't slip.
  24. I think your on your own for that o ring, I would take it to the nearest hydraulic shop and see if they can replace it make sure you tell them is for gasoline contact, if they can't match it they can at least measure it and you can find it at mcmaster carr.
  25. I think your on your own for that o ring, I would take it to the nearest hydraulic shop and see if they can replace it make sure you tell them is for gasoline contact, if they can't match it they can at least measure it and you can find it at mcmaster carr.
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