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Pablo M

Turbo
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Everything posted by Pablo M

  1. Replaced sketchy looking seat belts with new from Securon. Red, so worth 5hp if I recall. 🤣
  2. Looking for tips on getting the rear brake show adjusters loose. I took apart my brakes for a refresh (wheel cylinders, shoes, drums, cleaning). Trying to get the shoes off I fought with the adjusters. I sprayed them repeatedly with PB Blaster a few times over the past few weeks, and put a 50/50 ATF/acetone mix on them as well a couple times, having read that mixture was better than PB Blaster. had to use a hammer on the wrench to get it to turn, which 3 of the 4 did, but they all remain difficult to turn. I’d also read about using wax-heating up then melting wax in joint and it seeps into threads. Not sure about that and haven’t tried it. Any other tips to break them loose and keep them that way?
  3. Interspersed between the brake and suspension work I have going on at the moment I also took a moment to wrap the heater controls with brown carbon vinyl. This coordinates with the same I added to the door panel trim and will add it to the instrument cluster (where newer cars have wood). Corners aren’t perfect but will look acceptable once in. also added @mo02 decals, a Christmas gift.
  4. Saw that. I had done a ton of research on this (and all my projects lol) and saw a couple times people made a point to say the spring had to go in a certain way, pointing out. I had done a ton of research on this and the spring had to go in a certain way, pointing out. Shouldn't be necessary if I buy a replacement part. The part should fit. I know sometimes aftermarket can be compromised a bit but this is something else. I draw the line at having to reassemble a brake shoe. This can't be how everyone replaces their shoes.
  5. Thanks. I had researched on here and that was what I came up with too-that the orientation of the spring was important and pointing in was not correct.
  6. Going through my 72 2002tii and redoing all the brakes. On the rears now and the brake shoes I have don’t have a space between the parking brake arm and the shoe, where the top spring should go. Did I order the wrong shoes? Or did I get crap aftermarket? These are branded WBR (World Brake Resources). They otherwise look identical to my current shoes. I’ll have to look where I got them, possibly Partsgeek or Pelican, maybe elsewhere. brakes definitely needed some attention: before: during:
  7. Used my Christmas present this morning. definitely needing coffee as well. Rear brakes ongoing.
  8. Oh! So sorry for the confusion. I’ll remove the @ so you don’t get bombarded lol.
  9. Ordered yesterday, picked up at Will Call today. Funny though, I had trouble checking out online, user error of course. I couldn’t find anything that said pick up and missed the Will Call option. So I emailed andrew, who owns/runs the place , directly from the IE website and he got back to me that day. Sorted me out. Highly recommend!
  10. Suspension and brake refresh progressing. While I have everything apart I’m cleaning, scuffing and painting some things. It’s just spray paint, not powder coating, and definitely not concourse level, but it makes me happy. and it’s raining outside.
  11. No gland nut but I sourced new from Ireland Engineering so I'm good to go. $500?! Ouch. That will have to wait for a bit, unless the car becomes undrivable. Its not currently, although it doesnt run well. I figured there was a rubber spacer but didnt think it would be so big. Your photo looks like mine so confirms mine is correct, just missing the hardware. I wish I didnt throw away my old sway bar link bushings to use there. I think you mentioned that before. I plan to do that but havent gotten to it yet. Brakes and suspension first. Will probably address that right afterward. Thanks everyone. I answered individually above. I don't have the gland nut for the Bilsteins but will get them. Thanks.
  12. Started on my brake overhaul. -new discs and rebuilding my calipers -new stainless brake lines ft & rr -new drums and shoes, plus new wheel cylinders -new reservoir and hoses to master. -repack hub bearings. They don’t look like they need replacing. Will be cleaning and repainting as I go. Not to restoration level but for my own peace of mind. Will sand and paint backing plates, hubs, strut bodies: Will also replace shocks with Bilstein, springs with H&R. Replacing strut tops also. scope creep: Calipers don’t look rebuildable. This is the worse one. Even if it were rebuildable I’m not comfortable doing so. Will be sourcing remans somewhere. I read on this forum the Carbone brand ones are to be avoided but what Napa and RockAuto sell are good. My son is helping me. (I helped him with his e30 lol).
  13. Replaced a badly faded tail light and a dry rotted (and hole filled) gas filler.
  14. Newish to me 1972 2002tii: First, looks like I have rear bumperettes on my front bumper. Can I just remove them? Next, have an issue with the bumper connection at the ends of bumper. Early bumper, and late front clip on my 72 (but original early 1972 fenders). Is this gap typical or a result of the early bumper with late front? Couple intake questions. First, my 72 has the plastic intake runners. Engine runs rough and honestly I haven’t even started to address it as I have other priorities with the car at the moment (brakes) but noticed the runners don’t look well seated at the intake manifold. back two: front two: How should I address this? Does this look like obvious vacuum leak? my other intake question is about the boot between the air filter housing and the intake. The boot looks like it’s either the wrong one or messed up and trimmed so it could be re snugged further down the boot (on intake side) Is it right and/or should I replace? last, front shock question: I got these front shocks, Bilstein B8’s (as part of a lot of parts hoping to get them on my car. When I researched I noticed there was an early version of struts and a later version. I checked and Lois like my struts are early. Can someone confirm if I can use these front shocks on my 72 struts? my struts-
  15. would I be able to turn the lock fully if the door is closed if that were the case?
  16. The center caps (reps) are available on eBay for not much money. My son got basketweaves for his e30 and sourced those center caps. I got bottlecaps for now. make sure to get the right lug nuts for the aluminum wheels. The steel lug nits eat into the aluminum and will cause problems.
  17. Thank you! Great info. Mia this a common occurrence? Only ask because the car came with 3 or so extra door handles, all missing their locks lol.
  18. 1972 2002tii, newish to me. Driver door lock doesn’t work well. I can turn key about 45° before too much resistance to lock it, and I stop there for fear breaking key. This locks door, but pressing button on outside unlocks the door one click, so it opens a bit, but is still locked and not openable. I sprayed TriFlow in lock to try to clean/lubricate it (per locksmith recommendation, who said not to use graphite, my go to). Didn’t seem to help. I had already removed the door latch mechanism and cleaned it with brake cleaner, then sprayed white lithium grease on all pivot points. This helped solve the door latch operation, a separate problem, but the locking mechanism problem remains. I can lock and unlock the door but definitely isn’t working right, or as it should. What are my next steps?
  19. Was the wood dash a 73 or 74 thing? My dash is all black.
  20. Great info. Thanks everyone. To be honest, my all black interior feels dull. Could use a second color, or textural changes. Reupholstery is low on my priority list though lol. Mechanicals first.
  21. Thanks for the info everyone. Got lucky on my trip to the junkyard this morning and the e30 that was there for two weeks was surprisingly not picked over. Got the battery cable from trunk to firewall, junction box, and cable to starter. Cheap too. Also got a good negative battery cable from an e36 just in case. I'll remember to maintain a ground from engine to chassis too per the link above. I'm not in a hurry to do the project (I have other priorities for this 2002) but good to know I have what I need for when I'm ready. By the way, e28 battery is under the seat. Didn't matter though as that car wasn't there (it was listed to be).
  22. What smaller positive cable? You mean the really thin secondary wire? Or from the firewall junction box termination to starter? And cables from more modern cars have some kind of fusible link at the battery end that is tied to the airbag system, effectively killing the power system except the accessories if there a crash.
  23. I've done a bunch of research on relocating the battery to the trunk on here. Yes, I've read about under seat being better. Yes, I've read about shock tower brace generally understood to be ineffective. No need to rehash those topics. I got a TEP rear brace/battery holder as part of a lot of parts I bought, so effectively free lol. I recently had to remove the battery to replace the oil filter. I like the idea of moving some weight rearward. I know the easiest (I've found) was to use the e30 battery cables and engine bay junction box (connector?). My question: Are there other known cars that you could also use the battery cables and such for this relocation? Does the same/similar era 5 series (e12/e28) also use same cables and junction box? Are there newer cars, like 20 year old cars (that I might more easily find in a junk yard lol) that would work?
  24. Ok. My car is Riviera. I ask because I think I saw a riviera with two tone black/caramel interior. Thought it looked good, but the seats were all caramel so it came down to the color of interior. Mine is all black inside.
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