Pablo M

A friend 3d printed me a pair. Thanks.

I know there’s supposed to be that little line. I’ve also seen the diagrams and when I got my car it didn’t even have the vent hose hooked up. It was so dry rot it broke on the ends and I found it sitting deep in the engine bay. Then it didn’t have the tee. I replaced with new hose and installed it without the tee. I did install a new fresh plug to the TB port. after last weekends replacement of the badly rotted and not connected WUR hose the car ran brilliantly. IMG_9531.MOV

Mine doesn’t have the small hose teed into throttle body. TB had that plugged, which I replaced as it had dry rot and crumbled off. Vent hose goes straight from valve cover to air box only.

Dont be sorry! Its all good. Just a shame this car needs as much work as it does. And I just lost my job so can't be buying a bunch of parts (or a diff!), at least for a while. The resonator is some janky "Turbo something" and looks welded by a monkey. Its an odd thing too, with pinched metal edges along its length. No surprise its not aligned correctly. Just another thing to the list, lol. I havent checked the grease in CV joints. No outward signs of leaking but they could be dry. I'll see if I can open them up. The covers appear dry rot cracked all over but not fully compromised. I dont recall if they had screwed clamps. I'll try to post a photo. Thanks for the help!

Ugh. Given this and other things I've read in doing research I'm starting to believe this is my problem. In this photo above what is the indication its gone bad? Is it the wear on the sides of the teeth? Wouldnt they have wear there normally? Now I want to check my diff internals. This weekend perhaps. Fun times. Thanks!

When I refreshed the oil I also pulled the diff cover and checked inside. Main reason was there was evidence of long term oil seepage on the outside and I wanted to redo the gasket and oil. When I had the cover off I looked in and didnt see any tell tale signs of damaged teeth, nothing on the bottom of the case and nothing that I could see in teh oil that came out. I didnt do a full inspection though so could have missed damaged teeth. Someone once mentioned, related to something else, that it could be diff related: on deceleration I can hear a metal scraping noise. Could be related to the noisy diff when I turn it. I suppose I could pull the cover again and spin the gears to see how they are. So many things to do...lol. Thanks!

Yep, a friend already printed out a couple for me. I’ll pick them up Saturday. I’ll check again but I’m sure I put in the right amount of oil, just to where it was dripping out. I can pop the drain plug open again to check the level. If it has oil and is still loud what could that mean? I used Redline 75W90 GL-5 synthetic oil.

No. How do I check that? That's a bit above my pay grade but happy to try. Valve cover vent? You mean the PVC hose? So I would expect the air cleaner interior would look the same? What you're saying is that there's pressure in the block (why?) and its causing some oil to get into that hose, into the air cleaner housing, then through the throttle body and into the intake, correct? I mean, definitely looks long term and I'm not inclined to clean it, at least for a long time, as I have other issues to deal with. I'm just concerned if this was a sign of a significant problem. When I had sorted (for the moment) the vacuum leaks the engine ran beautifully. A new vacuum leak developed now that I've driven it hard-ish, probably for the first time in its life. Perfect! I haven't been able to drive it enough to know if its losing oil. When I got the car engine was caked in old seeped oil. Cleaned it up a bunch and now only see some wet oil residue between the Kfisher and the engine block. Also, revving the engine to 5-6K reveals blue smoke out the pipe. 😕 As long as the residue inside isnt indicative of a more serious problem I need to add high to my priority list, I'm good leaving it well enough alone lol. Thanks all.

1972 2002tii When replacing WUR hose I had to take off a few of the intake runners for access. Noticed the intake was coated in an oily residue. Tried to wipe it and it wasn’t wet. Looked like long term deposits. Would have had to scrape pretty hard to get it off. is this normal, or something indicative of s bigger problem? Its like a sandpaper texture.

While I had the car up on jackstands tracking down another problem I replaced the two bushings at the shifter (#19 in diagram). Wow, while not “snick, snick” smooth it’s definitely a huge improvement. Shifting went from each gear having its own zip code to all being in the same zip code lol. was an easy job to complete, without having to remove exhaust, driveshaft or anything else.

Testors enamel may be hard to find these days. I’m a model builder (one of many hobbies) and the old enamel Testors bottles are gone. ford engine blue works in a pinch, if you ask me.

I dont but know people so could have it printed. I drained and filled the diff so I know its got fluid. No signs of any loss, but if you think it really sounds like it is empty I can check it easily.

You're right. I hadnt noticed I was missing a piece. There werent any when I got the car so I replaced the hangers only. I remember thinking exactly that-they seemed like eminent failure given the sharp edge on the hanger. Surprised I didnt see that in the RealOEM diagrams before. $10 each! Dang. Add it to the list. Thanks! When I discovered the rear noise I was taking the car for the first longer shake down run after just getting the engine to purr. 40+ miles on PCH and just a hint of canyons. On the way back started to run badly again, like it was missing. Could have developed another vacuum leak or possibly fouled the plugs due to blow by. I dont know why I fear the latter or why I even thought of it lol. So no testing for a bit till I get engine sorted again.

Couple videos: one of the axles turning and the condition of some bushings. Other of the exhaust as I shake it. photos are of where exhaust hits underside of body near csb, second is forward exhaust mount showing (hopefully) how the metal bracket isn’t even being supported by the rubber mount. Both mounts, forward and behind muffler are new. IMG_9551.MOV IMG_9554.MOV

I checked bushings and subframe does not seem to have any sloppy movement when "encouraged" with a big pry bar. The exhaust does hit the underbody near the CSB. There are marks there and I can shake the exhaust to get it to hit. Don't know why it would only do that on right turns though. Exhaust has new hangers at the back but it sits higher than the forward one so its doing nothing-whole exhaust hangs from the trans mount to the rear exhaust hanger. (Transmission mount is new IE urethane, trans exhaust hanger is original though) Spare is not secured. Should make noise in either left or right turns if it were the issue though, I would think. No, but motor mount (or perhaps only the left bracket) were done in 1999. I do have new mounts I need to install when I get some time. Oof, forgot to check for rubbing. I'll check for that shortly. For sure they're needed, and original. They show signs of dry rot cracking. Taking a long pry bar to the control arm bushings I can't get them to move though, so no outward slop. Yes, I installed new IE diff bushings and they're directional so only go on one way. You mean right motor mount? No, mounts are original but I did buy new ones. Need to find time to install. Motor doesnt move much when idling so I don't think the mounts are bad, but they're old so very possibly. Axe rubber? You mean the boots? They are not cracked open at all, but show surface cracking from dry rot/age. I jacked the car up on jackstands and pulled the rear wheels. castle nuts don't look like they've been off the car in decades. No movement from vigorous testing by hand. I agree, if it were something not side specific like the subframe it would make some sort of noise in each direction, in theory. Will have to test slow sharp right turns. From memory it did not make noise doing regular intersection turns, but I did not give it any speed there. I'll retest that and verify. Thanks. Shocks are new to the car (I installed them december, but they were lightly used). Rechecked the mounts and they seem tight and rubber feels newish. --- ---- Thanks again for all your insights. I'll keep testing to see if I can pinpoint when noise happens and not. I have video of the bottom, with me turning the axles and shaking the that I'll try to attach here in a moment. When I installed the diff mounts I also pulled the cover and redid the seal as it showed signs of long term seepage all over the diff. No evidence inside the diff of 'loose parts' either in the bottom of the diff or in the oil. Driveshaft feels tight in the CSB and guibo, not much play to speak of. Guibo was also installed in 1999 but only 1,000 miles ago. No visible signs of dry rot. Video to follow...

I'll get the car up on jackstands tomorrow and see if there's any evidence of things hitting each other, and subframe mount condition.

Hmm, I can see that. How would I check that? When I was doing the brakes I checked the half shafts and wheels for play but they seemed solid. Try bay was just checking with my hands. Is there some better way to check? Yes, factory bar. I had taken it off to do the suspension refresh (new shocks and springs). The bushings were dry rot like lots of other things with this car, but there wasn’t any play in the mounts that was obvious. Someone mentioned that previously for another issue. Is the exhaust that bad haha? I checked it last time someone mentioned it and grabbing it and shaking it violently didn’t budge it. Stub axle? So not the half shaft itself as SoM mentioned? If the half shaft is bad it would be bad at the wheel right? If the stub axles bad it would be at the diff right? I do feel it more in the center. I’d suspect the csb if I hadn’t already checked that. wouldn’t a loose castellated but be obvious though? When I did the brakes they were on there pretty good, cotter pinned as well. How would I check any of these?

1972 2002tii Starting to test the car for longer distances, further than just my neighborhood, as I try to get it roadworthy. Took it up the coast from my place on Pacific Coast Hwy. Freeway speeds. Generally went ok but on sweeping fast right bends, and right bends in the canyons, there was a loud clunking noise from the rear. Didnt notice it on left turns. Felt slightly violent and could have been from driveshaft/diff area. Guibo and CSB were changed less than 1200 miles ago, BUT over 10 years ago. Appear tight and in good order though. Diff bushings and transmission mount I put in a couple months ago and are brand new. When I've been under the car in the past I checked the driveshaft for movement by hand, none evident. What should I look at? What could be causing such a noise?

Its tedious but worth it. Nice work.

Thanks Jim. The upper right fitting is where the hose goes. The threaded insert in my post appears to have been used only to plug the hose. No idea why they would go to the trouble, and yes, my idle is terrible. Hoping new hose will solve that-or I'll discover why they plugged the hose lol.

Where did you get that rear seat blanket?! I desperately need something like that as a temporary solution to my rear seats poor visual condition.

I appreciate you guys trying to help but this isnt it at all. This is the connection at the intake. I am referring to the connection at the other end of the hose that attaches to that part, and it connects to the WUR. I tried to be clear about that in my original post. There is a hole on the lower engine-facing side of the WUR. The piece I photographed above did not fit well into that hole and I suspected it to be just a plug, which seems to be confirmed from comments above. Again, to be clear, I'm talking about the part that connects the hose to the WUR, not to the intake. I went back out to feel around some more and I think I was mistaken in that I was feeling a hole in a surface (biased from thinking I had a piece that went into a hole perhaps) and now I realize it was the end of the cast nipple. I think I can get the hose over that nipple and I should be good. I'll report back. Thanks again for everyones patience with my questions!

Thanks. Sorry, but I’m referring to the connection at the Kfisher. I should have been more clear. And yes, the 72 I have has plastic runners. That’s what I was afraid of. I’m dead in the water until I can source that. I don’t even know what I’m looking for. Thanks!

Carbon Pin! Thats the real name. I like mine better though lol.