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Pablo M

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Everything posted by Pablo M

  1. Pablo M
    I used high temp red grease. I’ll have to clean it again and try a second time. I guess I’m too weak and fatigued from working on the car two weeks straight lol. thanks.
  2. Pablo M
    More questions! Nothing is ever easy, is it? With a lack of reasonably priced options for a left caliper I decided to rebuild mine. Took it apart, cleaned it, took 0000 steel wool to piston and barrel and all seems good. I’m trying to get pistons back in and can’t get them to seat all the way down. Got them most of the way and just can’t move them further. My process, let me know if I messed this up please: -use new brake fluid to lube inner seal and install. -install rubber boot on piston. -apply very thin layer of grease to inner seal and piston. -slide piston into barrel, careful to get it seated and square as it goes in. First half went in pretty straightforward and how I would have expected. Then gets very difficult. -then used old pad to push against trying to get them in further. Caliper is off the car and brake lines loosely connected. I bolted up caliper thinking I’d gain leverage but nope. Whats wrong with my process? Pistons are still 1/8”-3/16” out from where they need to be.
  3. Pablo M
    Looks great! Love a wood steering wheel. Which one is that? I’d love a wood one but would need thicker and smaller. I could never get used to the similar one I had on my truck. what seats are those? Does the extending front bit work?
  4. Pablo M
    The issue I have with polycarbonate is the same as on newer cars, that over time they dull and fog over. I had some aftermarket headlights on my 69 f100 and the top half, due to the dome, got dull and translucent. Needed restoration. For this car I went glass, yet to install them though as I have more pressing urgent needs lol.
  5. Pablo M
    Wow, that is beautiful. Sexy.
  6. Pablo M
    Welcome! I’m relatively new here too, having picked up my 72 2002tii a couple months ago. I agree with above-brakes first, then go-fast stuff (starting with suspension). Keep in mind the car is 50 years old so lots of the rubber parts, particularly bushings, need refreshing. This week I’ve been doing just that-bushings and brakes. if it’s a daily read up on dual carbs more. They’re high maintenance and may not be to your liking in the long run, for a daily. Although if it’s just summer might be ok. I’m in SoCal so will daily mine all year. looking forward to seeing your progress.
  7. Pablo M
    That’s what I suspected might be the issue. I’ll try the parking brake adjustment first. completely backed off and the drums sitting inboard of the adjusters. They are turning well, after some persuasion. Lol.
  8. Pablo M
    Progress continues. Replaced diff bushings. Cleaned and painted the bracket, cleaned the diff. I used IE split replacement bushings and they were super easy to install. Removed the old ones by burning the centers out, cutting a relief cut in metal ring then gently hammering the rings out. Easy, and relatively quick. Also need to rebuild one caliper (replacements not available). So I removed the pistons, cleaned them and the cylinders up with steel wool. After the rain I’ll paint the caliper (silver) and install the rebuild kit parts. The pistons still have some surface rust inside but on the outside surfaces they’re good I think.
  9. Pablo M
    1) didn’t remember to do that! Thanks. I’ll have to loosen the parking brake. 2) will double check but set them up so the slots were vertical before installing the wheel cylinders. 3) wheel cylinders are new and we’re not connected. New SS flexible lines were also installed. No pressure in lines. Thank you!
  10. Pablo M
    Sorry for the barrage of questions lately-I’m off this week and have been trying to complete an ambitious list of projects on my 1972 2002tii. Just finished up the rear brakes. New WC, SS lines, shoes and drums. Finally got the right shoes and drivers side installed fairly easily, even the lower W retaining spring. Then slid the drum on and all good. On passenger side also good, until I tried to slip on the drum. Felt as though the shoes were bigger than drum. Adjusters all the way in and shoes sitting inboard even from that. Couldn’t get drum on at all initially. I tapped the shoes into position, as inboard and centered as I could and was able to slide the drum on with difficulty. Hard to turn hub by hand as it stands, much harder than drivers side. I’d read here that sometimes the shoes need shaving on leading/trailing edges as they’re not exactly same radius as drum, and need to be matched to drum. Is this all I should need or indicative of another, more serious problem? They’re both on and I mounted wheels to keep them on for now. Im concerned about driving with them as they are. drivers side:
  11. Pablo M
    1972 2002tii I’m refreshing the brake system at the moment: new calipers, wheel cylinders, pads and shoes, drums and rotors, stainless steel brake lines, reservoir and related lines. Noticed this condition on brake booster vacuum line. What’s going on and do I need to replace booster, MC, or both? I hadn’t planned on replacing them as I’m on a budget 😁. 1972 2002tii I’m refreshing the brake system at the moment: new calipers, wheel cylinders, pads and shoes, drums and rotors, stainless steel brake lines, reservoir and related lines. Noticed this condition on brake booster vacuum line. What’s going on and do I need to replace booster, MC, or both? Or replace the hose? The current hose appears to have an integral metal coiled wires under the black and is poking out in places. I hadn’t planned on replacing any of them though as I’m on a budget 😁.
  12. Pablo M
    Finished the rear brakes! The W spring wasn’t nearly as bad as I was expecting. Only concern is the passenger side brake shoes seem to rub drum quite a bit with adjusters backed completely off. Was difficult to get on the drum as well-had to have the shoes perfectly arranged. Painted the new drums to prevent corrosion and installed the Bilsteins.
  13. Pablo M
    Nice car! Following you in IG now lol. I think we saw you driving on Lincoln sometime in the last few weeks, around the O’Reilly’s on one of our supply runs lol. do you know Garry and Sergio? Looks like they follow you too and are SoCal local (Pasadena area).
  14. Pablo M
    beautiful car.
  15. Pablo M
    Thanks for the heads up. Unfortunately he doesn’t have any for my car currently available. Not sure he sells singles either as all the listings looked like pairs. plated would be good as the other one I bought was plated.
  16. Pablo M
    I grew up in Fontana!
  17. Pablo M
    Ha! I’m in Santa Monica too, north of Wilshire! Where are you at?
  18. Pablo M
    Do you need exact color codes or close enough. I’d guess they were blue letters on white just based on brand. If you’re fine with close enough you could paint them yourself like I did my badges. I used Ford engine blue and a generic white. for license plates you can get accurate reproductions from Custom Personalized California License Plates CALIFORNIA-LICENSE-PLATE.COM California License Plate The Biggest Store of Replica California License Plates. We Have a Huge Variety of... I’ve gotten a few plates from them, 2 of the accurate year blue plates and one sunset plate from ‘86. compared to my state issued plate: Holding them together you wouldn’t be able to tell the state issues one apart from the aftermarket one. On the car: And the sunset plate, a direct replacement for the originally issued plate: @billy g
  19. Pablo M
    Thanks again everyone, particularly @Mike Self. That did the trick. Two of the four needed coaxing with heat but two just needed the pipe wrench to break them free. I kept working them till they moved freely enough and didn’t need coaxing. Now I can finish the rears. if only I had a good left caliper I could finish completely. Had the wrong side sent so I may revert to rebuilding that one side. It wasn’t so bad. Then onto the reservoir and hoses to MC. P-
  20. Pablo M
    Haven’t gotten back to the rear adjusters yet. Just been soaking them repeatedly with PB and the home made mix. I’ve been busy with a dozen other projects in the meantime lol. And every project takes forever because I’m cleaning/painting as I go. Brake system hasn’t gone dry. I added, having read several places here, Saran Wrap over top of the reservoir, tight under the cap. Hasnt been much loss of fluid with all the brake lines coming off. I’d say it worked. I have a new reservoir and lines to master to install as well.l (reservoir replacement kit from Ireland Engineering). I’m sure it’ll run dry except the master when I do that lol. I’m not replacing the master or booster though…at least not planning to right now lol. Also just got my second replacement front caliper and they sent wrong side. And correct side not available. Grr, another delay. Might try rebuilding that one as it was in much better shape than the other rusted one.
  21. Pablo M
    Afraid of that. I ordered a left and got this. Yet another delay. Thanks guys.
  22. Pablo M
    Got my reman caliper today. Bought one right and one left. if I’m not mistaken the bleeders have to point up and this is a right side caliper, correct on both?
  23. Pablo M
    Satisfying progress.
  24. Pablo M
    Nice. Black is good too. we share priorities. I’m currently doing a brake system refresh to get it reliably drivable lol.
  25. Pablo M
    I don’t want it to look like wood. I just mentioned I was also placing some of this carbon vinyl on my car where the later cars have wood around the instrument dials. I originally selected the brown as it was very close to the original marlite on the door panels, which I covered. After doing so it seemed odd to have that be the only place where it occurred.
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