its55

So I checked my steering box fluid level for the first time since I've owned my 2002 (in the past year) and it appeared to be a little low.  So I added oil to the box up to the level (I think) the manual says it should be.  The next day there is oil from it all over the garage floor.  Upper input seal bad?

32 minutes ago, Seb said:

Yes, here:

 

 

 

 

Interested; I will message you.

Interested. I will message you. 

15 hours ago, Seb said:

Price: $90

Location: Germany

 

Description:

For sale, works fine., pn is 61311357000

 

90 EUR + 12 EUR shipping

 

Paypal f&f or +fees

 

 

 

Do you happen to have a 1972 combination wiper switch / turn signal stalk?

43 minutes ago, Stevenc22 said:

Sr-440x is the M starter. The smallest and lightest, but basically impossible to get.

 

Sr-441x is a 5 series starter. Sized in the middle between the m starter and the OEM starter. Can still be bought. Aftermarket versions start at $80

thanks!

On 7/12/2023 at 7:47 PM, Mark92131 said:

 

Yes, not the smaller, lighter weight M starters, stock OEM rebuilds.

 

Mark92131

What is the "smaller, lighter weight M starter"?  I'd like to add this to my potential future parts source list.  Thanks!

17 minutes ago, 02Les said:

Wow - Rogerstii wants $28.55 + tax versus bts-autoteile at 8,90 €($10) incl tax.

Reason I've never bought from Mr. Rogers.

I wonder how those numbers compare if shipping is added

29 minutes ago, jgerock said:

Look in the US owners manual supplement.  Original seat belts (73+) had the interlocks plus the under seat bottom “passenger present” pad.

Very helpful, thanks.  I wonder if there'd be a simple way to simply have the Fasten Seat Belts light come on after starting the car and then just go off by itself.  Some sort of timed switch if that makes sense.

I would just like to get the useless fasten seat belt light to work for nostalgia sake.  I do know that the bulb is good.  Does anyone have a specific wiring diagram / knowledge on this?  Don't mean to thread hog, I think this is related.  Also following to see other ideas.

With the great assistance of Rob H002 my steering column universal joint is replaced.  Took about 4 hours of pain thanks in large part to the most stubborn and inaccessible nut that we had to eventually cut out.  Also got my backup lights working (still need to improve some wiring insulation underneath).  Earlier in the week did some basic alignment check and adjusted the toe of the RF that was out quite a bit.

44 minutes ago, 02Les said:

Interesting response. Just trying to help. I have collected a ton of pics of '02s, and my response was after looking at quite a lot of "stated original" 1972 Sahara cars. I couldn't find one with a carpet even close to the colour of the little piece in your post.

 

Maybe post a pic of your car with its 'original' carpet for us to see.

 

If you'd like to message me with your VIN I may have some history on it.

The original carpet in my 72 is also the brown as you state and show in your pictures. 

20 hours ago, 7502 said:

I've heard that too. I added a few oz of STP oil treatment that contains zinc for peace of mind. 

I did not realize this about STP, good to know!

8 hours ago, 7502 said:

I did an oil/filter change this morning.  Log book shows last one was 3/10/22 and 5127 miles ago. This time I really cheaped out on the oil. I put in Super Tech 20W50 from WalLMaRt that cost around $17 for the 5 Qts. I won't go as long next time with this stuff.

Eric

my understanding is that using an oil containing zinc is highly recommended for these cars. 

Well this is an odd one…have no idea whats being offered here…

Fireworks shopping ...

3 minutes ago, Pablo M said:

Installed new dizzy cap and rotor, plugs (BP6ES, not r), Kingsborne plug wires. 
 

drove it around some and finally got it up to 75mph. Felt great at that speed! New shocks and springs (Bilstein b8, H&R/IE stage 2) really feet tight.  My version of an Italian tune up lol. 
 

Determined the rear end noise I get is in fact the exhaust. I can replicate it with my hands. Muffler hitting fuel tank and spare tire well. Too much play, even with new rubber hangers. 
 

Fuel gauge stopped working-reads empty. Already did second ground on back of cluster, which got it to work in the first place.
 

Turn signals worked today, first time. lol. 
 

more work to do…

Check & clean all your other grounds.  I finally got my temp gauge to read correctly after doing so;

The big wire, middle trunk floor

Grounds in the tail lights

Ground from negative battery strap to body

Ground behind the voltage regulator (this was loose on mine)

Ground at the alternator to timing chain cover.

Not to mention your connections to the fuel sender...

6 hours ago, Furry Camel said:

Kill off Steve77. He just sent me the same message as above, joined 7 hours ago.

Would be a great day if scammers could be easily tracked, caught and hauled to jail.

6 hours ago, 2002#3 said:

There is no way this flimsy design can keep the seats attached to the floor in a major crash.  

 

 

 

Probably won't matter much at all in a major crash...

Kept plugging away at getting my temp gauge reading correctly.  I knew its been off as I checked the hose temps w/ my infrared.  Was reading right at the red marker earlier yesterday.  Went through all the grounds again yesterday and replaced the temp sensor.  Something fixed it, as today all is well.  The pic shows its highest reading during a couple of 90 degree weather drives today.

43 minutes ago, Mike G said:

Picked up my 188 diff from the shop. New bearings and seals, changed gearing from 4.10 to 3.73, upgraded to 3 clutches. 

wow, what shop does this sort of work?

10 hours ago, dbower said:

Ryker almost got me with the same scam story.  Wouldn't take paypal -- that was the giveaway.

I don't do paypal either, won't agree to their agreement.

7 hours ago, John76 said:

Exploratory Surgery Begins!

Off with the head today after triple-checking compression (wet & dry) and leak down tests.

Problem is the original engine w/ 143K miles is gulping oil. 1 quart every 120 miles!

Was hoping to see a simple head gasket failure... but there was no oil in the coolant or lack of oil pressure. Nothing was leaking and I just noticed blue smoke in the exhaust on heavy deceleration.

Yanked the head, manifolds and carb intact.

Would love to have any feedback on the condition of the piston tops after 5K miles since the head was rebuilt.

Next step is to pull the pistons and measure everything.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That engine looks much too beautiful to have an issue!

1 hour ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

Today, I gave it a dew bath.  Chilly nights make for wet mornings.  It was fun to towel it dry.

 

Yesterday, I did my fifty mile shopping route, taking the scenic back roads heading out and the highway home.  The car got another three-comment-barrage within a minute in the grocery store parking lot.  The first guy asked if I've owned it since new.  I said, "no, I was ten then."  The second guy asked, "'74?" and then said, "I had an '80, they're tanks!"  The next lady asked "what year?" followed by, "my brother had a '65!"    

 

It's getting kind of warm here, so I replaced the foam in the heater vents, to keep the hot air from blowing on my legs.  

 

 

The carports have been turned into workshops, so all the vehicles are camping out these days.

 

when growing up in humid Florida I use that car wash trick quite often, I also washed during light rains for that natural rinse. 

17 hours ago, John76 said:

Or ... just attach a short hose between the manifold and block.

This will keep a bit of the coolant flowing as originally designed.

 

This is how mine is set up ...

Pretty easy to just remove and turn it around.  That's what I did so I wouldn't go insane having it backwards. 😁