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Posts posted by its55
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4 hours ago, D.martijn said:
Anyone that could also measure their 2002??
I could try - what measurement do you need? My 02 is all together so I may not be able to get exactly what you need… -
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7 hours ago, joebarthlow said:
for the first time in my 2002 ownership (6+ years), I now have working license plate lights 🙂
What’d ya do?
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Sorry, thought all of them were interchangeable. It is a ‘72.
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They don't have to be beautiful, just operative. Thanks!
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2 hours ago, Eissmann said:
Been working on getting rid of exhaust smell in cabin. I sealed all the holes between the trunk and the cabin including speaker holes in the package tray and a replacement oem trunk gasket. Then I had a muffler shop attach a longer chrome exhaust tip to get past the diving board bumper. All the black stuff around the underside of the bumper is soot. Fingers crossed hoping I fixed it
How is your joint between and header and exhaust including the gasket ring there?
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2 hours ago, 0257 said:
Wow. Never even knew this alternative existed. Site says it’s suitable for all M10s; wonder if anyone on the FAQ has used this for a tii? I think it may require more machining to fit?
thought this link might help -
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Could be wrong but I think I saw that Walloth Nesch has a special on glass now? Just an FYI.
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Almost ready to road test. Since September I've been slowly but surely replacing the rear trans / shifter seals, renewed all the shifter / shifter support stuff, installed new guibo, installed all new brake lines and hoses, replaced all steering box seals, replaced one inner tie rod, under-chassis cleaning and touchup painting here and there, changing oil and filter now (waiting on crush washer delivery today)... need to check alignment; pertronix ignition to be delivered today...
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Thanks for your help everyone. Glad I checked all this out so my nut torques will be correct!
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I am re-installing my propeller shaft / guibo on my '72 2002 and I see different torque specifications for "shaft with sliding section" and "shaft without sliding section", however, I cannot find the definition of "sliding section". What does that mean and what do I have? Sorry for my ignorance...
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Welcome! Ive been in TN 4 yrs. + in the Nashville area. I got my ‘72 2002 1.75 years ago (my 2nd). As Rob said above, theres a handful of others in this immediate area. Best of luck in your search. This website and its participants are a great resource.
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I can almost hear the rust forming under the salt!
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Manufacturer of Vintage Car Parts,MVP,BMW2002,BMW,bmwclassiccars,bmwclassic,bmw2002classic,bmw02club,mvpvintageparts,recreate a legacy
WWW.MVPVINTAGEPARTS.COM
Manufacturer of Vintage Car... -
Front Vented Disk Brake Kit (2002) — BMW 2002 Parts
WWW.2002PARTS.COM
If your 2002 has stock (non-tii) front struts, and have struggled with heat-induced brake fade, then this vented rotor kit for you. This bolt-on kit utilizes Volvo 240 Turbo 4-piston Gerling calipers, 1980-1983 E21 hubs...
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Interested in the “early under dash panels etc interior, nice shape”.
Would these fit a ‘72?Also perhaps “FS3 - anadized trim, between b and c pillars, pairs“.
Do you have pics of the above items?
thanks.
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8 hours ago, zambo said:
This is absolutely true. URO make good parts and should be supported. But they do it because it’s a business they believe they can make a return from.
Where they have parts they admit they can’t quite resolve but where others wish to step up to plate, let’s also support them.
This is not a case of either/or - currently MVP have saved the bacon of people with serious body repair issues with what I observe have been high quality panels. As have URO with some of their products that are also key to restoring or maintaining our vehicles. They clearly both form key parts of the after market supply chain to the global E10 community via their resellers.
MVP having a crack at rubber is a bit of segue but best of luck to them if they come up with a better fitting product at a realistic non-BMW “OEM” price.
And having followed this thread since the start, I didn’t get an overall sense of any intentional bitching about URO to be frank - as opposed to the bitching that rightly goes on about the other “Frank” 😬.
Agreed, I don't see any bitching either. As far as I'm concerned, the thread is solely about URO Door Seals (at titled in the subject line), seals which even URO acknowledges need improvement. I don't care who ends up making them right, I just need one 😂
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7 minutes ago, zambo said:
Just a bit of possibly useful information on this, MVP were in Brisbane (Oz) this last week visiting a mate of mine who is one of their local dealers.
He had a NOS 15 years dry-stored set of ‘02 doors seals. Looked immaculate from the images still with the powdery release agent on them.
They were overjoyed to take them to start prototyping.
My take is they might have been waiting until a “new” BMW quality set of seals from a time they believed the fit was correct turned up, before they would give it a go.
I believe they will have prototypes ready in 3-4 months and if they test well - and it seems most of their stuff I’ve read about turns out as highly useable - they’ll have the seals by mid-year.
So maybe the race is on to see who solves this pretty important issue first.
This was posted on the Oz 2002 FB page, many of who’s members are present on FAQ.
👍🏻 My post of Monday was based upon MVP telling me on Facebook thats door seals are “coming soon”. It appears they will win the race but we’ll see.
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URO's not going anywhere as long as they're profiting from the sales to 2002 owners. Also, URO openly admits to the problems with their door seals (see earlier posts). Customer complaints about parts quality serves to cause improvements by good businesses. Don't know of anyone who doesn't appreciate the parts of good quality URO providea.
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57 minutes ago, Buckeye said:
this is what I did and took 3 minutes to get the arm off. Thanks to member 'Guest_anonymous/ Daron Ball'
Yep, did all that and more! No budge.
2002 chassis measurements - rear differential mount position
in BMW 2002 and other '02
Posted
so far I was able to get this on the differential. One measurement is at the front side of the bolt the other is at the rear. sorry I don’t have a millimeter tape measure. Hopefully this will help.