its55

45 minutes ago, TobyB said:

Nope, it goes all the way to the bottom.  That shop manual pic shows it in the process of being removed.

 

It's designed so that it crimps itself into position as you drive it in.

 

t

 

ahhhh. …. Ok thanks, I’m learning!

On 8/12/2023 at 12:45 PM, Buckeye said:

@its55, Tech Tip - You could have taken other 4 nuts (Guibo to trans) off so you only had to replace only 4 new nuts. That way Guibo stays with driveshaft. Clean drive shaft bearing with brake cleaner, dry air it and pack it with new/fresh long life grease.

Does “clean the drive shaft bearing” include taking that section apart, I assume by removing the cap and parts 2 thru 7 and 9 in the pic below?  And by the way, there was no bump stop (part # 2) found in mine, it seems I should install one?

9 hours ago, bergie33 said:

 

Looks correct to me. 

According to the picture of correct orientation provided, that’s what I think as well. My pic is of my existing one which I removed yesterday. 

8 hours ago, TobyB said:

Try, and watch the lockplate come out with the nut.  It's there-

it's the cad- plated surface on top of the nut.

 

t

I think whoever installed it drove it down too far and it’s not supposed to go to the very bottom, looking at the shop manual pictures. 

35 minutes ago, tzei said:

Looks like nut has tried to open a degree or two, plate is stuck under corners.

If that’s the case it would seem that I can then remove the nut

it must be seized, I’ve been beating the heck out of it with a screwdriver

Gentz, unless I'm blind, it doesn't appear that my gearbox output flange nut has the locking plate on it?  Pic of mine vs. what should be...  I was chiseling away at that little ridge when I checked...

Continuing the gearbox seals and shifter project …

1 hour ago, Buckeye said:

@its55, Tech Tip - You could have taken other 4 nuts (Guibo to trans) off so you only had to replace only 4 new nuts. That way Guibo stays with driveshaft. Clean drive shaft bearing with brake cleaner, dry air it and pack it with new/fresh long life grease.

thanks for the tip, it didn’t look like I had access to do that. I don’t mind buying all new nuts though…

Where is that bearing located, sorry I’m new to this and learning…😂

Continuing the transmission rear seals project which has become the gearbox rear seals and shifter project…driveshaft nuts off…

Began the “replace transmission rear seals” project. On the jackstands and the exhaust out of the way ( fully although this pic shows partial)…

22 minutes ago, Son of Marty said:

It's a plug gapper. Years ago I got gifted one from accell (sp) that works like that but has a lever with a blade on a handle, you put the blade that's the size of the gap you want and swing it into the plug and tighten the bottom screw 1/2 turn or so and your done easy pesy you can gap 100 plugs or more in a hour. !000 point for making one your self.

Thanks, I assumed so but wasn't sure.  I like it!

2 hours ago, tzei said:

Saw one

Wanted one

Made one

see one

dont know what one is

4 hours ago, NickVyse said:

You'll be able to get 13" tyres for a while yet, you'll just have to pay more for some enterprising European or Chinese or Indian company that's willing to send them to the states. 185x70/13 in France currently brings up 72 different options (90 with trailer/van only options included). There are plenty of markets left in the world that have lots of new cars on 13" wheels, but the USA just isn't one of them

 

 

Pneus 185 70 R13 tourisme | Prix discount, livraison offerte - CentralePneus.fr

WWW.CENTRALEPNEUS.FR

---

Pneus 185 70 R13 tourisme pas chers sur CentralePneus · Livraison gratuite · Commande simple et rapide · Un grand choix de marques · Prix bas garantis sur les pneus.

 

another source is www.cokertire.com

1 hour ago, OldRoller said:

 

I took my '01 740iL to get rubbers swapped. As I pulled in a ruckus was in full blow when a Denali suburban fell off the rack from full height. Turned around, went home and removed the tire/wheels. The fewer hands on my rides the better....

Damn. That mechanic should be let go quickly. 

Pardon my ignorance please - Brandon owns this thread?

Just want to make sure I understand.  

33 minutes ago, Lucky 7 said:

Good to know, those guys could be a helpful resource if I run into problems. I’ll give it a try myself first, definitely with help from a friend. We’ll see how it goes. 
 

Next time you’re in Denver, hit me up if you want to check out the mess!👍

this YouTube vid is interesting and may be useful, I think…

Calling around to get prices on getting my 2 rear trans (4-sp) seals reaplaced as I’d rather not do it 😂

2 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

I don't see getting a torque wrench on all 8 nuts anyway (maybe if your using the 12mm head or smaller nuts) so as Toby said just tight enough to seal. Also the copper coated exhaust nuts fit and will provide a locking feature. The torque spec for a 8x1.25mm nut is 17.7 ft/lb so you'll need a inch pound torque wrench or a very low reading wrench to do that accurately, not you 100 ft/lb unit.

Thanks, primarily I want to tighten the nuts at the cooling system branch fitting, but will check others as possible.  I do have a torque wrench that I can use for this.

Can someone tell me the torque specs for the intake manifold (and the cooling system "branch stub"), I was unable to find it in at this link or in my books...

Thanks!

I added the STP and it does appear to have at least slowed the leak down quite a bit so far.

Well thanks all, I think at this point I will be steering towards new seals, which is a bummer since I just spent much time and energy replacing the steering column universal!

🤣

14 hours ago, Mikesmalaga72 said:

Warm up some STP oil treatment then pour some in will turn to gel inside ...no leaks...A friend of mine said the BMW racers used to do that back in the day....

why would you need to warm it? Does that change its characteristic somehow I assume? How much would you warm  it? Have you done it?

too bad about the dealer. I wouldn’t mind seeing more pictures of the car, looks good!

3 hours ago, Mike Self said:

My '73's steering box would pee its contents onto the garage floor overnight.  After swapping it for a much lower mileage box (71k vs 268k) I dismantled the incontinent one for a look-see.  Ended up doing a Roundel column on going through a leaky box.  PM me if you 'd like a copy.  It's a pretty easy job if dismantled in the proper order (a learning curve for me).  

 

BTW, you should use hypoid oil in the steering gear box (diff oil, the smelly stuff).  

 

mike

Mike, thanks, I will DM you ... and the diff oil is what I use.

Also thanks to all others for your help.