19 minutes ago, ingramlee said:

After about 2 mins of heat from a torch, that puller you see in the photo made quick work of pulling that drop arm arm.

Constant PB blaster then I used mapp gas for two minutes or more at a time, a 5 ton puller, twisting with all my might, even tried an impact wrench on the puller…after 3 days of trying I gave up…

11 hours ago, ingramlee said:

Going to try my hand at refreshing my spare steering box. If all goes well, I'll replace the leaking one that's currently in the car then refresh that one for a spare. From my untrained eye, the innards look fine. What you all think？

Recently did mine.  Nothing I had, borrowed or rented could get the drop arm off.  Had to take it to a shop where they used a hydraulic puller to do it.  In that sense, you're efforts are already a success!

Just now, its55 said:

9 minutes ago, Eissmann said:

I’m getting a rumble under the floor behind me on vigorous acceleration. Two weeks ago my mechanic told me he had found a loose bolt on the guibo and replaced it.  Advised me the drive shaft needs attention.  Rumbling continues so I went under the car to inspect drive train  today.  It looks like my flange on the drive shaft is hogged out at the guibo where the loose bolt was replaced.  And the new bolt isn’t going to hold for long either. 

Expand  

possibly your propeller shaft is not properly aligned and could be stressing the guibo

9 minutes ago, Eissmann said:

I’m getting a rumble under the floor behind me on vigorous acceleration. Two weeks ago my mechanic told me he had found a loose bolt on the guibo and replaced it.  Advised me the drive shaft needs attention.  Rumbling continues so I went under the car to inspect drive train  today.  It looks like my flange on the drive shaft is hogged out at the guibo where the loose bolt was replaced.  And the new bolt isn’t going to hold for long either. 

1 hour ago, Fortlauderdalian said:

Stripping off the undercoating is fun fun, 

Undercoating applied by others?

I’ve recently learned that MVP will soon be making/ selling door seals!

7 hours ago, cdbeemin said:

Well, I went and done did it… bought me a stablemate for the ‘74 off of BAT! ‘72 project car, with good solid bones, even if there are many areas of refurbishment to come. This will be my first big retirement project. Pics to follow after I pick it up on Saturday. I’m sooooooo excited! A new roundie!

Cool!  I was watching that one...

1 hour ago, 02Les said:

Mike,

 

Please read the pages in the attached file. BMW of North America called all USA '02s from 1966 thru 1976 TYPE 114 in their September 1989 update for the 'BMW Vehicle Identification Manual'. Nowhere to be seen is E10.

I have yet to see a BMW publication that shows E10.

 

AND, the Touring is E6

 

BMW Vehicle Identification Manual - part.pdf 1.93 MB · 3 downloads

Love historical info like this!

Not sure when I posted here last exactly, but I believe since that time I've got my new transmission seals installed, but before finishing that job I'm continuing with underbody cleanup (including converting / paining a little surface rust), removed and repaired (replaced seals) the steering box, replaced a LF outer tie-rod end (discovered a small crack in the rubber boot), decided to go ahead and replace all the brake lines and hoses while I'm at it ... then my family got me a carpet set for my birthday so I'll add that to the list ... 🤣

3 hours ago, URO Parts Support said:

 

Hi Its55, thank you but given the low sales volume of this niche item, it's possible the redesign on the RH seal won't happen, so please don't wait on us.  It could be a long time, and possibly never.

I understand, but I see no reason to buy something that won’t fit. I’ll just keep living with my tattered one as long as possible. 

30 minutes ago, URO Parts Support said:

Hi Its95, we do have RH seal 51 71 1 808 686 in stock, but we're still looking for a new production facility that can redevelop it to correct the issues mentioned earlier in this thread.  Realistically that will probably take 12 - 18 months, so we won't have an updated/improved version anytime soon.

 

LF seal 51 71 1 808 685 is also in stock, and most folks have had good luck with it.  Production run codes (on the bottom right corner of the URO label) 9156 and higher would be the latest version.  (Code 9039 is probably also the latest version, but it hasn't been 100% confirmed.)  Seals purchased from Rock Auto should be the most recent stock (barring seals that are returned to them and resold), as our SoCal warehouse routinely drop-ships for RA.

thank you, I’m just going to keep waiting till I can absolutely buy the right ones the first time. 

On 7/24/2023 at 12:00 PM, URO Parts Support said:

Hi Lucky, we should have LH Door Seal 51 71 1 808 685 back in stock in about 90 days.

Any update on status of both LH and RH door seals?

55 minutes ago, Einspritz said:

And the total cost differential is, for what, 300ml of lube?

you would be right if I could buy 300 mL. In any event, I have decided just to go with the good stuff I’m too scared to do otherwise! 😂

3 minutes ago, jimk said:

You get what you pay for, buy cheap, get cheap results.

that’s normally my motto… But this does meet all the specs…1/4th the price of redline is so tempting…

35 minutes ago, jgerock said:

If the Walmart robot is filling it, then they won’t care😏

I doubt a Walmart robot would know where to look…

Looking for reasons why this oil would not be just a suitable for the steering box as the much more expensive brands ...

STAR TRON LUBRICANTS SAE90 32OZ

34 minutes ago, jgerock said:

Be careful with one of the bearing cages.. it might be plastic.

thanks, it does all appear to be metal but I will be careful

27 minutes ago, mac said:

Critical spots to inspect:  Bushings, one in the cap, other in base of housing. 

Galling, metal cavities in the roller bearing  and worm gear. 

Rust on the shaft of the worm gear that is exposed to the elements. 

 

Mac. 

I'll inspect it, but, does this stuff really matter if parts are NLA?

8 minutes ago, Alpinaguru said:

I believe I have one or two. Lmk 

What would you like for one of them?  Can you also provide a pic?

All apart, ready to clean😁

Hey all, before I screw something up royally, I'm attempting to remove the worm gear from the steering box.  The manual says to tap it with a plastic hammer, however in doing so its not budging.  Read somewhere else that it may need to be pressed out.  I'm not entirely clear what's supposed to happen, i.e., it the entire diameter of the large circle on the opposite side of the splined shaft going to come out, or just the gear / bearings going to come out of the smaller hole?  Sorry for the ignorance however search as I may I've been unable to find a picture or description of what exactly to do and expect here.

I only need the bracket for the WW pump or a bad pump  w/ the bracket if anyone has one.

10 hours ago, Paul5801 said:

Finished reinstalling the center console after the carpet install. I designed a cup holder based on a design I saw on eBay.  I needed it large enough to hold my large Yeti cup. It works surprisingly well. There is just enough flex in the plastic to allow the cup to sit on the carpet while being held tight in the holder. 
 

 

how much? 😁

Finally got ye olde steering box out and cleaned it up a bit. I was surprised how easy it was to get the three 17mm mounting bolts out, almost as if they weren’t properly torqued. Tomorrow i’ll start working on disassembling this thing. 

18 minutes ago, BarneyT said:

Installed my stock wheel covers on my 72 Ceylon Gold tii…

personally I love the stock look