its55

10 hours ago, Mike G said:

Weighed it

 

 

With fuel?  Fuel and driver?  ...

6 hours ago, zinz said:

The Inka car has been reading hot on the gauge, so tonight I pulled the cluster. I needed to change the broken speedometer anyways. Added a pigtail ground to the back of the cluster and cleaned the main ground under the dash. That seems to have solved the temp gauge issue. 
 

I drove it out onto the county road at highway speeds and everything seems to be happy. Tracks straight and no odd vibrations. Topped it off with fuel and headed back to Barney’s to tweak the hot idle setting. 
 

It was hunting just a bit at hot idle and the idle speed was low. I gave the adjustment in the Tuna Can about an 1/8 of a turn and adjusted the idle stop a little bit. It seems happier now. I’ll recheck the timing and might need to re-tweak it, but right now it’s pretty smooth. 
 

IMG_0992.MOV 23.43 MB · 2 downloads  

 

Looks like it’s about time to bring it back home. It’s such a joy to work with Barney and his shop, he really has been a generous soul to help me out so much. I have 5 speed swap plans, so I’ll be back before too long. 
 

Ed Z

 

There's also a ground wire (on my '72) hidden somewhat behind the voltage regulator.  Cleaning that one is what eventually corrected by gauge readout.

On 7/24/2023 at 12:00 PM, URO Parts Support said:

Hi Lucky, we should have LH Door Seal 51 71 1 808 685 back in stock in about 90 days.

Any update on status of both LH and RH door seals?

Replaced the rubber bushings inside my shift lever. No more twisty-turny!😁

7 hours ago, Buckeye said:

Not that difficult. I used breaker bar and 18mm socket. turn them 1/4 turn then switched to 3/8 ratchet.

Thanks, was hoping that'd be the case...

2 hours ago, ricsix said:

Installed the carpeting in Frank along with the new door cards. Here’s the inside as of tonight. Pardon the dark photo, I keep it old school over here, garage with no electricity and a head lamp. Just like the pros!! 

 

Esty carpet?  Ill be doing mine also in a few weeks or so …

55 minutes ago, Buckeye said:

Past weekend removed steering box from the car because the seal by worm gear was leaking. My main concern with disassembly was removing the Pitman arm but that worked very well after soaking the joint in PB Blaster for couple of day using little heat and impact gun.

Regards,

 

 

im in the process of removing mine (from under the car on jackstands - fun). How difficult was it to remove the 3 bolts that hold the box in place? Ill soon be at that point and wondering how miserable ill be 😂

Being a glutton for punishment ... the transmissions seals are installed however prior to re-installation of the shifter mechanisms and propeller shaft I've decided to replace all of the brake lines and hoses and while waiting for those parts I'm continuing to clean up the underside of the body (including some painting) and have started the steering box seals replacement project 🤣...

6 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 

That's how I read it.

That's what I've been assuming...

What is the correct way to read these torque specs.  For example, does "80+14" mean tighten to 80 first, then to 94?  Or is 80 the minimum and 94 the maximum?

Thanks!

35 minutes ago, otisdog said:

Argggh...If you are going to use a wood block with your jack stand, always place it under the stand. Offset  top and bottom loads can easily split the 2X, and the resulting 1 1/2" drop might cause the stand to rock or tilt.

probably a good idea…

3 hours ago, Son of Marty said:

Lock plate and loc-tite👍.

That's what I'm thinking ...

3 hours ago, JohnS said:

The tool that IE sells for holding the flange in place works really good

Transmission Tool – Ireland Engineering | Racing & Performance Parts for BMW & MINI

WWW.IEMOTORSPORT.COM

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Each

 

I made this out of angle iron to remove it and it should work to replace it.  It's about 3 ft. long...

25 minutes ago, TobyB said:

It's not a huge thread.  So I guess that could be right.

 

I've had those work loose, though, and chow things up.  Me, I'd probably overtorque it to around a hundred.

 

because I'm a brute.

 

t

 

Thanks. Did they work loose even with the locking plate installed?

Am I correct in reading that the big nut gets torqued to 73 lb. ft?  Thought it'd me more ...

Ordered a new Esty carpet set for Schmidt this morning, a birthday present from my family!

Continuing the transmission / shifter work, cleaning parts, waiting on new parts, a little painting ...

10 minutes ago, Conserv said:

Or your transmission’s output shaft has already been upgraded. My impression was that BMW upgraded the output shaft splines because they were replacing so many output shafts, some while cars were still under warranty.

 

FYI: Transmission housings have a cast-in casting date inside the bell housing, near the nose of the starter. This is a far better indicator of a transmission’s age than the output shaft.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

Thanks, was going to ask if these had a date or other means to determine if original. If it’s inside the bell housing I hope to never see it 😂

43 minutes ago, Conserv said:

The changeover from coarse to fine splines was during the 1974 model year — I don’t have more detail on changeover VIN’s or dates.

 

Best regards,

 

Steve

 

My ‘72 has fine splines (see pic). If you’re correct, then I have a later model 4 speed?

23 hours ago, Ian said:

For all these reasons I picked up a set of Quick Jacks.  Super easy to move around and because the load is spread out the concrete is not an issue.  Now I won't even change wheels without rolling these under the car since they make it so easy to lift.

Thought about these as well, however I like sliding under the car from the sides and these block access.  They would definitely be ideal for tire / brake work.  Of course, the stuff also has be be stored against the walls which takes up space...

I appreciate all the responses!  Ultimately I decided against any lifts, after researching and laying out all necessary post locations in my garage. The posts in my case would cause far too much inconvenience due to access requirements. So, I shall remain working comfortably on my back while saving lots of money. 😂

2 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 

Assuming you are using rubber bushings. 

 

Polyurethane bushings can be torqued down with the suspension dangling, because they act like free swinging hinges, (as opposed to rubber that gets locked into position when tightened).

Maybe thats correct, although I don’t understand how, since the urethane bushings are torqued down just as tightly. In any evey, when I install mine I torqued them all with a load in the car just to be safe since I had never learn to read anything to the contrary. Polyurethane can split, crack and fail. 

6 hours ago, M3This said:

Got the front suspension in! 
 

 

 

I assume you know that the suspension nuts must be torqued with the car on the ground and loaded…

to resurrect an old thread, I pulled the speedometer cable out but the guts (plug in bush, etc.) are not coming out and I’ve been tugging and tugging and wiggling and wiggling, any suggestions?

Got it!  Used ALL the tips!  Thanks all, it was a bear for awhile but finally gave in.

Considering a Max Jax lift.  Only concern at the moment is the "4.25" concrete slab requirement.  According to my home plans, my slab is 4".  Never heard of "4.25" in all my construction years; its either 4, 6, 8 or ...

Anyway I plan to confirm the slab thickness regardless.  I would be curious to know anyone else's installation experiences, including slab thickness, as well as satisfaction w/ the Max Jax.

Thanks!