its55

With all the mods available out there, I’m wondering it at some point a digital instrument cluster will be made available for the 2002. Personally I would retain my OE cluster as long as possible, however I think that a digital replacement could become quite popular. Of course at least one of its displays would need to mimic the OE!

42 minutes ago, Mike Self said:

Planning to driving Ludwig...or Georg Fredrich is Ludwig misbehaves at the last minute...

 

If you're going our way (from Dayton and points north and west) and would like to join the 2023 Vintage caravan, PM me with your e-mail address for information.  We have around 11 cars so far--the more the merrier.  

 

Besides our Dayton starting point, we have a couple of en route join-up spots in KY--and once we get off I-75 in Corbin, a very pleasant drive through KY, TN and NC to our Asheville destination.

 

Cheers

mike

karavanmeister

 

 

I’ll be in my camper van so you’ll probably not want me in that group😂. My plan is to camp at the Hot Springs resort Thursday through Saturday nights.

Just decided today that I'm going to The Vintage 2023, but unfortunately only as a spectator as "Schmidt" is nowhere near roadworthy at the time w/ the front suspension work I'm doing.

Perhaps I will meet some of you there.

9 hours ago, der Heilerin said:

Not much actively going on, as I’m researching which type of garage lift for the garage. Two post vs four. Mostly to help with any underbody maintenance and general work. 
 

Though one question I have is what’s the best way to firm up a loose, or rather slightly wiggly door handle?  I’d rather baby it and firm it up than risk tweaking the sheet metal or chipping the paint. 

I believe there's a screw for it that you can see when you open the door.  If that's snug then its the little bolt which can only be accessed by removing the door card.  There should be some special washers for each as well.

4 hours ago, Shiparino said:

Painting the front sub-frame. Little at a time…

being there, doing that…😂

1 hour ago, 2002#3 said:

Steven,

A few area, say 10% of the PS bottom door seam, is rusted through to the outside.  After the complete POR15 thing of ALL bottom door areas incld the seams, would you add a seam body putty in the entire DS and PS seams (on top of the POR epoxy) to keep the water disciplined, out of the rusted-through areas, and not allowed to enter the seams at all, even though the seams are PORed.  Make sense?

Larry

 

Not sure how well it would adhere. 

Larry,

Mine does have a “BMW” in the center (doesn’t show up in the pic), however, I have no idea if it is the original or not. I am the third owner, the second owner made no mention of changing it and the added the weber carburetor (was a 2bbl solex). It’s possible he changed it but i just dont know. 

20 minutes ago, 2002#3 said:

I need a late 2002 8-spoke air filter housing, preferably in decent condition and with all clips.

Thanks for taking time to look through your stash.

Larry

 

 

is that what i have on my ‘72?  I’ve wondered if I have the correct one…

22 minutes ago, Shiparino said:

Disassembled the front suspension and steering and pulled the subframe.  Got it cleaned up and treated it with rust converter.  I was going to buy the engine mount reinforcement piece from Ireland, but noticed that someone had already done the repair.  This project is picking up some steam, maybe driving by end summer?  Or did I just jinx myself...

 

Oh yeah, also had some fun over the weekend, removing a seized rear subframe mount...

I am refurbishing my front suspension piece by piece…

Got my RF strut reassembled with new hat, shock cover, spring rubbers and shock (KGB).  Just need to do some final touchup painting...

13 hours ago, shermanmartinez said:

I have a pair in like new condition. PM with email for pictures.

Thanks, I have found one.  I will close out this WTB.

On 4/5/2023 at 11:13 AM, TobyB said:

Pelican is now ECS, so proceed at your own risk...

 

t

does anyone else smell a return to the '80's business monolith model?

ECS Tuning?  I have bought from them w/ no issue ... except a bit slow on processing ...

28 minutes ago, mavhh said:

First distributor-less drive. Wish I'd done it ages ago - what a transformation! Starts so much easier, idles so much better, smoother through the rev range... wow!

 

Just need to mount that MegaJolt ECU properly and it's finished

 

what is all this magic?

59 minutes ago, bergie33 said:

You have to be careful with ording from WN. Those 5% coupons are tempting, but when you order enought to beat their 20 Euro coupon, you end up having to pay additional import duties to UPS, wiping out the 5% coupon, and then some. Every once in a while they run free shipping... that's the best deal they have. 

Agreed, that's why I made certain to check all of that before ordering.

10 hours ago, 72MetallicMalaga said:

 

I'd also like to add Pelican Parts your list of good shops to order from, i've had nothing but good experiences with them (although they are local to me, so I tend to go pick up my parts from them).

I always check Pelican but, so far, they have never been the least expensive, even when trying to use the BMWCCA discount.  They also never seem to have the parts I'm looking for.  🤷‍♂️

15 hours ago, adawil2002 said:

Depending what you are looking for, Ben Miller at 2002AD, may be the best chance to find that elusive specific part(s).

Roger's Tii has a lot of the same products Ireland sold too.

 

Steve Peterson & Dealin' Dave at Blunttech have a majority of what BMW has available.

 

Walloth-Nesch is a great resource. Even if just for reference of what parts are truly available.

 

 

 

 

 

Recently put in a sizable order at Walloth-Nesch.  Saved $30 over anyone else or combination of, including shipping, thanks in part to their 5% discount deal they had running.

17 minutes ago, visionaut said:

First time I’ve seen the Turbo hubs cost less than regular or tii hubs… 

 

supply & demand i suppose…

Just now, slowbert said:

You could buy from Ireland, who are more than happy to charge $17 for shipping two small screws and a handful of nuts.

 

Shipping *can be* a profit center for some vendors.

 

Thats why i haven’t bought from them. Their shipping costs have always made them the most expensive for the parts i’ve ordered. Thats why its good to know shipping costs!

2 minutes ago, esty said:

i don't buy it...most, i not all parts sellers have shipped so much that they can, if they want give you an estimate that's close...i do it 5 times a day...sometimes, one buyer may pay a $ more and sometimes a buyer may pay a $ less than what it cost me but it's easier for both parties if they know before paying

 

i wish i had a quarter for every dollar we've spent as 2002AD...before we left the Valley they were a weekend thing, almost every weekend but that was in the 80's and 90's, things changed, for the worse with them over time...i won't do business with them anymore

 

 

well, your last paragraph is good to know, I will scratch them off my list. 

2 minutes ago, JsnPpp said:

I've had this issue when shipping things. You have to have it packed and "ready to go" in order to know the true cost. If you don't already know the size of the box and exact weight, you can't lock on shipping charges. 

 

Speaking from experience not 2002AD, but it could be the same thing. That being said, a rough estimate should be available (especially if you have the old part and can weigh and measure). Handling charges may add to it so it won't be exactly what you think it will be.

 

Perhaps they won't pack it up till you have agreed to buy it b/c it takes work to do that and adds labor risk especially if you say "no" at the end.

 

I'm not affiliated with 2002AD, just thinking out loud.

I understand this, as I sell on eBay occasionally. Before posting I “pre-pack” and weigh to determine the shipping rates. Every other company that supplies to us does the same. No way I’m ever going to commit to a purchase without knowing the total cost. 
 

The above comments are what I was thinking…

Considered buying a part from 2002AD, however, they would not let me know the shipping cost until I committed to ordering the part.  So I declined.  Does anyone else find that sales method to be a bit odd? 😂 Just curious.

Looking at my old 51 year old hubs, I'm wondering, at what point would it be necessary to bite the bullet and pay nearly $400 for one of these things?

Wheel hub 1502,1602,1802,2002 you need 2 for 1 car

WWW.WALLOTHNESCH.COM

---

Wheel hub 1502,1602,1802,2002 you need 2 for 1 car

3 hours ago, Shiparino said:

Set aside for later… but how much later?

Needs a glass top...

10 minutes ago, tech71 said:

I torque mine to 25 Ft Lbs, thats based on standard torque specs for an M8 10.9 class fastener.

Both the Haynes and blue factory book are somewhat murky on the subject, different terms, nomenclature, german translations but I believe 25 ft lbs is correct

Good to know. “Hack Mechanic” stated 18.