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Ncbimma

Solex
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Everything posted by Ncbimma

  1. The volts we're checked with car off on battery at mid 12s. Then at idle, it read just about 13- fluctuating. Then at 2k rpm it sat around 16... Maybe I was at a higher rpm? I was using an extending brush handle to mash the accelerator- so might not be exactly 2k. I actually fried my voltimeter shortly after messing around with it and a 220 line in the garage...so I can recheck after I replace fuses.. Voltage regulator is brand new- I just replaced it think in it was causing the red dash light to flicker when the sputtering occurs. My in tank screen is definitely not snow white. It's a rust brown in color but not gunked up. Something tells me the rust color is indicative of fragment obstruction...
  2. Good point. Never dealt with a gunked up tank before...any recs on a cleanse technique without pulling the tank? I assume just a siphon and scoop/sweep. Best locale to T in a pressure guage- closer to tank or pre Kfish?
  3. Update... -Volts at battery at 2k rpm is 16.7 - Sprayed carb cleaner all over intake runners...no idle change - Sprayed tunacan...nothing - Need to check coil continuity- all plug wires are mostly new from bavauto On the positive, I finally got the hazards and flashers to work properly... woohoo!
  4. Changed out the filter by the rad for a new higher capacity unit- simple swap... and checked the in-tank screen.It was mostly discolored but not gunked up or anything. I didn't see much sediment on the bottom of the tank but didn't take a great look- I'm too scared of having a powered light near all those fumes! Car still behaved in similar fashion- ran for about 10-15 mins just fine (It was like 100* out!) then began to sputter and lose power. Alternator red light pulsed at first but would steady glow with any throttle input- and any stabs at the throttle caused the sputter- but the car would idle- just at a low RPM. I didn't check the fuel pressure yet, nor did I replace the pump under the body- It was too damn hot to get under the car and I didn't want to stink up my garage with spilled fuel. Back to the checklist...
  5. I feel your pain. I've been chasing light/electric issues since purchase. Every thread I've read has been 'focus on ground wires, relays and sand bulb contacts. I beat myself in the head with a hammer every attempt on fixing things and when replacing one relay another pattern of issue arises. I currently have only turn indicators and headlights working. Nothing else. I guess we could use hand signals out the window to drive the car
  6. Not cracked. It's some kind of plastic slinky coil thingy around the lines- was there from the PO. I just left it there. I plan to check filters and pressure this wknd. I think the Bosch pump I have is for a 5er. Fuel lines is a good call. I will look into that next.
  7. Great response here! I've checked plugs and have normal carbon build- not burnt/white or sooty. The one thing I cocked my head on was the threads on some of the plugs were just slightly moist- I get no clouds out the muffler so not sure if it's a gasket issue- I hope not. Wires are newish from PO... will need to check if they spark properly, along with rotors and cap. I am moving the crankcase breather and some other smaller clothed tube to a vented can (they were previously y-joined and dumped into the old air intake elbow which was cracked and falling apart). I was going the route of a new fuel pump, filter etc. already, in case things were getting starved. Have a Bosch 69418 on hand already. I will check current pressure prior to doing anything though.
  8. I'm hoping you all can help point me in the proper direction to assist my problem. I've searched and search to find the different scenarios I am experiencing but cannot find a solution yet. Car starts up with little struggle from sitting for a day or two- once fuel is pumped in after a few seconds and a couple turns at the ignition, the car cranks and idles just fine. It runs from then on just great, great power when stabbing the accelerator and throttle is very responsive on blips. My problem arises around 15-20 mins later almost like once the car is warmed. At a stand still the car will begin to sputter a bit and as time goes on, get progressively worse. It will then run OK with deep throttle but once you let off the sputtering returns and you have to feather in the throttle at a stand still to keep the idle going which will stabilize but is at a much slower rate now. A minute after that, the car will act like there's not lot of power and a rapid sputter will occur in the higher gears on throttle and run only slightly better in 1st-2nd gear. Then maybe 30 secs later the car acts like there's not enough power to propel it forward in any gear on throttle and sputters heavily almost til it dies ....you can recover it with throttle feathering and it will have a slow sickly sounding idle. The red light on the dash will faintly come on at this time. My question is, where should I attack here? I've replaced the cold start valve, voltage regulator (yellow tape), thermo time switch I've checked the intake runners, one was poorly seated with a slight vac sound- I fixed it but the problem persists My thoughts- something to do with once car is warmed up? Zeitschalter- thermo time relay? Bad fuel pump? Bad Alternator? (Stock engine with K-fish) Any thoughts are appreciated- I'm a pretty big '02 newb and not very smart on car electrical/fuel systems
  9. I mean if I had the means I'd do this: http://www.speedhunters.com/2016/08/vegas-monterey-bmw-2002-off-roader/
  10. Congrats! I hope to see you on the road soon. I'm still working out all the bugs in my electrical system- so confusing! But at least I've got a year on my tags so I can technically "drive" ...without any indication.
  11. "Wide Fives" for a speedster- I just know
  12. Just got reg'ed this morning. No issues and pretty quick. They at first gave a push on the VIN being all numeric and only 7 digits long. But she got a 2nd opinion from another worker and they mentioned it's a unique set up/ register procedure as it's considered an antique vehicle. I'm good to go now- woohoo!
  13. Ncbimma

    Ncbimma

  14. I hope all goes smoothly! I just got a corrected title from the PO for my Tii I got not too long ago. I'm hoping its not too big of a pain with the NCDOT inspector. I'm pretty sure my numbers all matched- but now you got me worried and I need to double check!! I had my Porsche 356 CMC speedster inspected here in Raleigh and all went amazingly quick and smooth about a year ago...so there's hope!
  15. Hey Mike, Perhaps I've seen your car before- I've seen the same color in your avatar prior when out riding my bike new Harris Lake (new hill)
  16. Thanks for the FB page! I doubt I'll make it to the Vintage this year- I'm still sorting out car issues.
  17. Just trying to get a feel for how many 02'ers are local here in Raleigh?! I'm in the NW side near Brier Creek | 72 Tii Perhaps we can form a GTG or some sort of wrench and quench meetup...would love to poke some local brains on some tii behaviors.
  18. Is this not the Ansa red tape exhaust? My Ansa came with the same red tape and side decals..
  19. Exactly what I've been doing. Seems like an ongoing effort though as they keep showing up in numbers.
  20. Took possession of a vehicle that apparently had been stored long enough get an infestation of these little stink bugs. I keep finding them on the floor boards and in the door seals. While I absolutely HATE insects/ spiders, I'm wondering if anyone had any eradication methods that are tried and true. Can I smoke them out? I don't want to kill them because I'll then be stuck with dead lil bug bodies all over. But if I have to I will. I'm planning on a new carpet kit, so I'm ok with coating the interior with some fog or something, but I don't want to ruin the headliner/seats/dash. Thoughts?
  21. Any interest in a trade with a '57 Porsche 356 speedster outlaw rep widebody | 1905cc w/dual Weber's 44s? I'm looking for something with a hard top now- I'm in Raleigh.
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