D.martijn

Would this be also true for the late model Touring?

Finally finished welding the passenger side floor. Final piece was this panel I made out of some flat sheet by using the remainings of the original floor and based on the replacement panel from Walloth Nesch for the driver side floor And welded in Still need to grind down the welds and clean up the panels. On to the A pillar! Also pressed in the bearings on the rear arms and poured some Por 15 inside of them. (Also did the rear beam) Got myself a nice bit pot of bearing grease With my fingers I applied grease inside the grooves, making sure there was grease coming out of the bearing cage on the other side of the bearing. I then packed the other side of the bearing and tapped it in place with a big socket. When installing the other bearing, BMW workshopmanual states to apply 35g of grease on the tube that sits between the bearings. It also says to measure the distance, I assume to make sure that the tube wont cause pressure on the inner bearing race? You then add another washer and then finally tap the bearing in place.

After sorting the plated parts (at home) I went to the workshop and cleaned it up a bit since all the workbenches were full of glass from blasting. When my brother arrived we looked into pressing in the bushings, with some vaseline and the bench vise this went very easy. And done. I also test fitted the parts on the rear beam but I don't have any pictures of this.

Thanks for sharing! Is the rubber soft or firm? Just so I know what to look for

Yesterday I got my parts back from the plater. I also gave him another batch of other parts to plate. This will make it easier to sort everything. All the parts that need to get sorted Box full of new nuts, bolts and washers Car parts, hubs, rods, brackets... Some more specific nuts and bolts And some white plated parts, mostly for the alternator. The plates for the horns didn't turn out great, looks like these weren't steel..? I'll go ahead an blast these again and just paint them silver And the sorting begins! By putting the bolts on their head, it's easy to put them together length wise All nuts, bolts and washer in bags And started sorting the more specific nuts and bolts. By printing the pictures I took when sandblasting the parts it's very easy to sort everything! Gotta love details like these Washers for the horns with their Hz rating SWF (now Valeo?) marking on the wiper arms

I just recently removed this every stud from my cylinder block. When I tried the double nut trick, the stud just sheared off in half. I then welded a nut on the part that was sticking out, thinking if it would still shear of, I could weld another nut on it again. Even welding a nut on the stud wasn't enough, I had to heat up the aluminium around it. With my brother heating the block, my dad holding the cylinder block down, I was able to slowly turn the stud out.

So if I would like to be period correct I should use the aluminium one? I'll go ahead and replate the E21 strikers too, whenever an aluminium one might break I'll replace it. Thanks!

Hello guys, As I went through my parts pile I noticed I have two different types of door latch strikers laying around. The left one (metal) came from the car (74 2002 Touring), but I'm wondering if the other (aluminium) striker is also correct period on or an early type one? Cant find much about this on google/ the faq Could some one elaborate on this? thank you

I've been using clean and strip discs on my angle grinder, I'm impressed on how quick they remove paint! This only works for nice big areas, for the little nooks and crannies I use wire wheels.

Today I started with welding in a little flange so the firewall is nice and even which will make making/welding the new piece for the firewall much easier. By shrinking the edge I was able to get the curvature pretty close. New patch welded in Nice and tight agains the inner sill I then started with making the replacement panel for the firewall, the old piece had seen better days I hammered the old piece flat and laid it on a flat sheet of metal. By drawing on the metal I was able to copy the layout of the bends and curvatures. First time fitting the new panel after I bended the 90deg flange that sits agains the inner sill. The patchs is still too big here By placing two metal plates on each other, I was able to hammer a swage line in the sheet. After hammering some more and defining the swage line, I bended the lower piece of the patch. Other side To see the lines easier I sandblasted the piece. I also welded the little slot (forgot to take a picture of this) After making sure it still fits, I started on welding the patch for the chassis rail Welded smooth Tomorrow I'll weld this piece in and start making the floor piece

Picture of the previous patch grounded smooth This part will get cut out, I started with drilling out the spot welds More rust, yay! Decided to remove some more metal on the left side, just to be sure there was no rust lurking under the flanges I then removed the upper part of the firewall Found some bolts in the chassis rail when removing the upper sheet of the chassis rail Cleaned out the chassis rail and sprayed some brunox inside. I already made a new patch for the chassis rail which I'll weld on tomorrow. I'll then make a new piece for the firewall

Yesterday I removed the pistons from the brake calipers and removed all of the grease inside of them. These are now ready to get blasted and then plated. Today I got started with cutting out a little piece of of the front passenger floor. There was a small hole from inside. When looking under the car you could see the floor separating from the chassis rail. Rust lurking between the floor and chassis rail When I was cleaning out the inner sides of the chassis rail I noticed the previous owner also spayed some kind of tectyl/dinitrol in side of them. There was some small rust spots which I removed with the angle die grinder. I then sprayed brunox and zincspray in the chassis rail. New patch panel While the zinc spray was drying I ground the weld flat between the hinge and a pillar. The pneumatic powerfile came in handy for this :thumbs: All welded in, I also ground the welds flat but don't have a picture of this..

Yesterday I decided to tear down our sandblasting cabinet and put it back together with a thick layer of silicone to prevent sand/dust from falling out. Today my brother made a little dust collector using a big bucket with some water in. when the dust gets sucked in the bucket, a tube that's just above the water surface prevents the dust from getting in the shop vac. When he was doing that, I was organizing some of the other parts that we got with us from home that were stil laying in the garden shed. I started with cleaning and removing the windscreen wiper pump from it's container. These brackets and bolts will get plated too. Then I removed the old seals of the master cylinder and replaced them with a set of new ones from Walloth Nesch. Cleaned the aluminium tube of the right piece as it was a bit corroded Meanwhile my brother took apart our heater core. The plastic casing has cracked but we have another one (earlier type) as a spare so we'll transfer the housing over Resistors still in tact Everything laid out and labelled accordingly In the evening we visited a older gentleman where our VW Golf mk1 had stayed over for the winter. We took our front calipers with us and asked if we could lend his grease pump to push out the old pistons. Went very easy, we'll pull them with a pulley removal tool for the final depth.

This week we removed the old bearings from the rear trailing arms. When we powder coated them we let them sit so the surface was protected. They slid out pretty easy by tapping on them with a hammer and big punch. Got new from our local machine shop, cylinder 1,3 and 4 have minimal wear but cylinder 2 has more wear. Turns out it's already bigger than first oversize so we'll need to go the 2nd overside.. Not really something I wanted to hear but oh well.. I also went through some of the old part boxes and sorted everything in a sorting cabinet. And of course got more parts

As I restored an Golf mk1 myself, there definitely are a few different manufacturers (eg Klokkerholm and Van Wezel are the best know brands) that make these rear panels for the mk1. I'm pretty sure you should go for the 3 doors version rather than the 5 doors (more metal to work with). I used Van Wezel repro panels and must say these fit pretty good on the Golf mk1, good quality. I've heard Klokkerholm panels aren't all that great.. Left side: 5810.45 (33€) Right side: 5810.46 (33€) Not sure if this might help you at all, just putting it out there..

Glass bead blasted a lot of hardware and parts of the 02 touring over the weekend. When I blasted a couple of parts I laid everything out on an A3 paper and wrote down which parts, how many, some other notes and finally took a picture of it all. I also got a bow full of all new washers, nuts and bolts a while ago which I'm also taking to the plater to get it yellow plated. All the blasted parts together 2 of the papers I made:

School started again after a short week long break. Luckily it was only half a day. When I got home I went to the workshop to start welding in the floor. Tacked into place, ground the little tacks down. Fully welded, ground down and a layer of zinc primer Also sorted most of the 2002 parts that were sitting on the ground onto the shelves. We also installed the height adjustable feet on the workbenches, still need to get some casters for the smaller table.

Got an other small update, couldn't do a lot of work since I was replacing fluids on my E30 325iX Touring Finished the new flange with the small metal tabs that hold the fuel line in place. I did not cut these when redoing the flange because I did not know if it would turn out that great. Cut the little tab with the angle grinder and rounded it of with a file. Welded in place Old vs new

Finally an update! We got in our new workshop on the 1st of February, after much driving back and forth to move most of our stuff it was time to move the 02! Since it isn't far from our home, we were able to just roll the shell over the street. Car is still in surprisingly good condition (surface rust wise) for sitting so long under a cover 02 sitting in its new home Also welded some nice big workbenches and a smaller one which we will add some caster wheels on soon Still need to go through all of the parts and fill up the shelves since all the parts are now just laying on the ground. I also started welding again on the 02, got started with the A post. Filling in some of the hole the previous owner added for dinitrol/tectyl. Probably the smallest patch panel I've ever made And ground smooth, there was also a hole just about the lower hinge When we sandblasted the car I noticed some rust lurking between the flange of the passenger floor and the sill. Decided to cut a the piece out and make a new flange. New flange tack welded on Making sure it still fits Got some more parts in too, New brake discs, drums, waterpump, gasket kit for the engine, bearings etc etc..

Got these in the mail today, Original BOGE front and rear shocks, still in their original packaging

Ok, thanks!

I don't want to hijack Rajs thread but I have a spring on my steering coupler, does this also count as a ground? If not, what's the purpose of this spring?

I haven't had the problem anymore

Been slowly ordering parts over the few months that I haven't done anything to the car. Mostly specific BMW parts, like little seals, some screws, bushings.. etc etc Today another package arrived, couldn't believe my eyes at first how big it was! I'll share some pictures later down the road of all the parts I've gotten for the Touring. Still need to order ball joints for steering, strut bearing, bearings, brake parts, engine gasket set

Ok, thanks for the comments. I was able to remove it by cutting/prying the old seal in two. By applying some wd40 and than twisting the plastuc tube back and forth I could remove the old seal and easily remove the plastic tube. There was quite a bit of rust under there, removed it with a wire wheel and applied some Brunox to stop further rust. Glad that's sorted, thanks!