D.martijn

Saturday I gave the parts a second coat, today they were dry so I took the one that were good off the rack. I painted the cv joint bearing races, the underside of the air filter housing, starter motor and gave the diff another coat. I hope these turn out good as I my paint gun wasn't set correctly in the beginning, the paint went on a little too thick.. We'll see how it turns out. These parts are all finished now: I also took our radiator to a local radiator repair shop as I noticed after painting that there was a little crack right above the drain bolt. The guy said he'll also pressure test the radiator to make sure it's all right. He will bend the little fins also straight as there are a few that are bend inwards. I then order new cv bellows and a new Bosch starter drive/gear (as the bearing on the original one is too far gone) + new brushes for the start motor too

After buying another liter of 2k black satin paint we got the second layer on the parts. There were a few spots that had some overspray so I decided to lightly sand these parts first so I could get a smooth finish when applying the second coat. As far as I can tell it came out very good, especially for only using a (cheap) spray gun for the third time. my brother and I also started disassembling the startmotor for the engine. We'll probably give this only one coat when doing the underside of the air filter housing and lid as I haven't painted those yet. The stator still looked good as does the stator, we'll just give them a clean an reassemble them back after painting the housing.

Finally got the remaining parts painted black. After making a spray booth with some square tubing and plastic foil + a little rack to hang to parts on I got started with painting. Second time using a paint gun, turned out pretty good if I say so myself I'll probably give it a second coat when it's all dry as I laid it not too tick to avoid runners + there are a few small spots that I didn't quite fully cover with paint. Radiator, I did not paint the little cooling fins as I still need to bend some of them back into shape. I'll spray these with some heat resistant black paint later on. Air filter housing lid Diff + driveshaft parts Brake booster

Thanks, Jim!

As I know that most of my pictures aren't working because of Photobucket (still planning on re editing every post) I decided to already update my build post with some new pictures. I got the alternator stator sandbasted, primed and painted red. I also received my new rotor. The guy from my local electro workshop told me it was the last one that was available from their warehouse. I got lucky and got the last one Last week I got the epoxy primed parts fully sanded smooth and primers the bare metal spots again. Fully ready to get painted with2k black satin paint.

Today I got the rear diff cover cleaned up and coated in clear. I did paint the little metal vent tube in silver to protect is some more. After degreasing the inside of the diff so there wasn't any oil left I wire wheeled the outside so remove some of the small rust spots. I then taped it all up and gave the bare metal spots a coat of primer. The housing is now ready to be painted black. I still need to blast the bearing housings and input flange but ran out of primer.

Next week we are going to paint most the parts for the touring in 2k satin black paint that are now currently sitting in primer after we got these sandblasted previously. We'll be making a small paint booth with some steel tubing. Since the differential is still assembled, we started on disassembling it. With the help of some brackets and a long breaker bar we were able to brake the big nut on the input shaft loose. Also the 2 bolts on the output shafts got removed. Everything disassembled and also removed the old seals. Teeth on the ring gear, little spiders and input shaft still look great. I don't think we'll replace the bearings as these also look good. Next thing is to get the hardware plated with a kit to do it yourself. And also cleaning up the housing and bearing housings with the sandblaster and some wirewheels. Then on to painting!

Today I cleaned and refurbished the Bosch distributor for the 02. I started with cleaning the outside and lightly go over it with some scotchbrite. I also cleaned the inner mechanism as it was quite dirty/greasy. When we plated the nuts and bolts, I took the hardware from a one of the spare distributors that was already missing a few pieces to also get plated. I then installed the new breaker points and set the correct gap (0,4mm) I also tried getting the vacuum chamber plated but it did not turn out all that great so I decided to bead blast the one fitted on ours and paint it with some RAL 9006 aluminium color. Aso got the little clips blasted and painted black. I'm pleased with the result.

Floor looks very nice! Even around those holes! Looks like a solid car, great work.

You will need the panel for the front section of the arch too as the rocker sits behind this. You can get this part from WallothNesch. https://www.wallothnesch.com/en/replacement-panel-for-rear-sill-part-front-lower-part-from-the-rear-side-panel-left-41-03-00.html As for the rocker, Its a genuine BMW part so it should fit pretty well.

Hhaha, thanks man! Appreciate it!

I use 0,85mm for the floors and other thinner sheet metal and 1,25mm for the inner sills/A post as this was also thicker from factory.

Haven't done as much to the Touring but today I finished cleaning up the valve cover. I also sandblasted the corrosion on top and then glass beaded the cover so there it had a nice smooth finish. I then protected it with some clear varnish. Turned out great! Being that the blasting cabinet was now full of glass beads instead of glass grit I decided to blast the rubber bushings for the rear and front springs as they were quite dirty and had some rust particles on them. This gave it a nice finish. I might treat them with some kind of product so the pores will be sealed. Also gave the newly purchased coil for the alternator a coat of primer. Still need to find some kind of red/orange paint like original.

https://www.instagram.com/martijndemeulemeester/

I used an old rag to clean most of the dirty thinner, I than sprayed some brake cleaner on the cover and used compressed air. Thanks!

I was questioning if someone ever tried removing the metal plate on the inside of the valve cover so you can clean inside of there? I let my valve cover soak in a degreasing solution and removed most of the gunk from the inside, the stuff that was harder to get rid of I removed with some thinner. When I wanted to clean the little chamber I poured thinner inside and sloshed the thinner back an forth but can't seem to remove all of it. Has anyone removed the plate before? Do you just drill these out and then reinstall the plate with some new revits? Thanks

Hello Tom, Thank you for taking the time to read through all of my blog I appreciate the very kind words about the work I've done so far to the car. I haven't done much over the last 2 months as I've been busy fixing (and also welding) on my BMW E30 (325ix touring). I hope I can start to pick up the welding again where I've left if very soon. And yes, can't wait to get it finished, hopefully it won't take several years lol.

Yes, but if I can find a new rotor cheap enough, why go through the hassle of cleaning/resurfacing the rotor? I went to my local electric refurbishment center and they told me they solder/apply new cupper/silver on the commutator but it's almost the same price as a new rotor. You can still get the separate diode assembly (1 121 099 007) but not the one that's in the body itself. Although the same guy here locally told he these never seem to go bad. I'll still try to measure these out though. I've since yesterday found a Bosch rotor in Germany with the number the guy from Bosch gave me so I might pick that one up. And yes I do understand that they will have used those parts on other alternators too but when I search the for the stator number that he gave me I can't find it back on their online catalogue, so how does one know it that is the right number/that stator actually exists...

No one here every rebuilt their alternator before..?

After being finally done with welding on the E30, I got started with blasting the in and outtakes of the cylinder head. Pressing rubber tubes into the valve guide made sure these wouldn't get damaged. I also tape the whole head in duct tape to protect it from glass beads entering the oil/coolant passages. I will still clean the head with some water to be 100% sure there aren't any beads left inside.

Hello guys, I started gathering some new parts so I can rebuild my alternator, I already disassembled it completely and as suspected the stator is burned. Since then I started looking after a replacement stator via the diagrams on Realoem and using the BMW part no on the Bosch catalogue to get the Bosch part no. I have a 0 120 400 752 (45A) Bosch alternator. Bosch numbers via BMW part no: Rotor: 1 124 034 016 (or 1 124 034 380) Stator: 1 125 045 010 (or 1 124 229 025) If I search for this rotor some sites state that this is a 35A? I also contacted Bosch and they send me a diagram (see attached pdf) with all the spare parts for my alternator but it the numbers are different.? Rotor: 1 124 034 381 (Same site as the other rotor says this is 45A) Stator: 1 125 045 026 If I now put those Bosch numbers in Realoem they tell me that it's for a 2.5CS-3.0CSL and 2500-3.3Li... Already bought a NOS 1 124 229 025 stator on Ebay for only 3€ (I was the only one bidding) +10€ shipping which is pretty cheap as these seem to go for 50-80€. I Would also like to buy a new rotor for my alternator as it's pretty rusty and has quite a bit of wear on the commutator. I'm now questioning if I should stick with the Bosch numbers from BMW or the numbers that the guy from Bosch gave me.? Hoping this is somewhat clear? New Bosch stator (Same OD, thickness, windings as the old one) Old one Alternator number 0 120 400 752.pdf

Yesterday I picked up the engine, cylinder head, flywheel and some other engine parts from out local machinist. He pressure tested the cylinder head, resurfaced it together with the chain cover and gave it a clean.The engine got first measured up, which told us that one piston had worn down the cylinder over the first oversize.He bored the engine to the 2nd oversize after I found some new Mahle pistons, gave it a hone + new freeze plugs and wash. The engine didn't have to be resurfaced as it was still good. The flywheel also got ground down so we have a nice flat surface for the new clutch disc. I still need to get new bearings for the crankshaft and connecting rods before I can start putting it back together. I'll go with Kolbenschmidt bearings as I can't seem to find the Glyco's. For now I put some more oil on the freshly cleaned and machined surfaces so they won't rust.

Ah, ok. I get it now, thanks for clearing that up!

You could be right. I havent checked that one out yet! I'll have a look today Now that you say this, I remember him making a thread about these, but isn't he using a E12/E21 LSD diff? So these are the cv for the early 02s if I understand correctly?

Hey guys, I'm selling a few spare parts here locally, when going through these parts I noticed a different type of cv joint than the ones on my 02. My car came with the regular flat ones, not these stepped cv joints. I got these from a family member and if I recall correctly he had a 1802? Could someone give me some info about when each joint was used?