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Found 6 results

  1. Spent a brief moment updating the KoogleWerks website, added some details on air dam fit/length (so each one is easier to identify in photos I.E; long/short, high mount/low mount, etc.) as well as made a new page dedicated to updates on new product development and prototypes that may (or may not) make it to production. "As we gain manufacturing capabilities and Ideas evolve, we hope to keep you up to date with future products and special projects (some of which are available for purchase now!)" - http://www.kooglewerks.com/prototyping-in-progress/ and here are just a few random pics...works in progress and oddities. new air dam designs
  2. After many inquiries and requests for a wider version of our Aluminum air dams, I finally found the time (and a good car to work from) to make a prototype. There were a lot a variables to consider. It needed to mount up high, covering the bead detail in the valence (nose panel). It needed to fit and look good both with and without a front bumper (early and late) it also needed to wrap all the way to the fender arch/wheel well....yet fit the average banged up and repainted 45 year old car. This is what I came up with. It looks low but it in fact allows for 3/8" more ground clearance than my original long/low mount version (shown in pic, for comparison) Happy with the results, I know it won't work on every flared and modified race car, but with very little effort it fit up nicely to the four different cars I cross-referenced the shape to. I've made a short run of these and they are available to purchase @ www.kooglewerks.com
  3. Hey Everyone, So I thought I would share some information that may be helpful to others. When I started the project I didnt intend on documenting it as a DIY as I was basically learning as I went. For years my brother and I have wanted to learn more metal fab, especially welding. I wanted new seats for my 2002 but because I often daily the car I wanted something comfortable but with bolsters so I went with e30 seats. Because of this choice custom seat brackets were necessary. After picking up the super cheap harbor freight welder on a special we started work. And yes the harbor fright welder is not great... but it taught me why its not great while still being able to get basic jobs done. You can get everything you need for this job at your local home depot. After a few discussions we decided because of the height of the e30 seats we need to get them as low as possible. Reupholstered e30 seats To install the e30 seats you must cut out the original 2002 seat brackets. We did this using our grinder and cutting disc. Be very careful not to cut threw your transmission tunnel. Also beware of the factory welds are quite old and can actually pull threw the sheet metal if you attempt to just fatigue the welds (bending the tack welded sheet metal back and forth to snap the weld) instead of cutting them... how do I know? Well it happened to us and we had to patch the hole using a copper spoon. Unfortunately I don't have pictures of the cut brackets as I was not happy with the hole. Using 1" square steel and 1" angle steel we cut the rails using a grinder with a cutting disc. We had good results clamping it to our work bench to make a ghetto ban saw. We measured 3" in from each ends and welded in the steel. Checking often for fitment and square angles. The main issue with the e30 seats in the 2002 are the two humps under the seats on the floor. Basically the seats are longer than the hump so you teeter on the hump with no easy way to mount. Also for proper position you have to sit 50/50 on the hump. So you must create a flat mount for the seats to the factory locations while still supporting it compensating for the hump and keeping it as low as possible. This was our solution. Bolt hole locations. Watch for brake lines and Measure twice! Next we welded the 4x bolts and support rear legs. So our bracket bolts to the hump with 4 large bolts welded to the angle steel. The bracket drops threw the car and bolts underneath. The rear support legs are roughly 3" long. We played with ideas of welding this or bolting it in but felt it worked really well as is. Very important as these legs support a large amount of the weight. Then a bit of black paint. The bracket attaches to the seat using the seat's factory 4 mounting holes and cutting holes at the ends of the bracket and attaching with bolts, a couple washers and nuts. Attaching the bracket to the seat then dropping the seats threw the floor and bolting it all in. All done! Baxter was a fan. Overall the project was awesome and am very happy with the results. The seats are super comfortable and great bolster. The project was frustrating at times but I am so happy we went all the way and started to learn how to weld. Our welds aren't great at all and the brackets aren't the prettiest but its a great first project as its not seen mostly. The negatives of the project are that no matter what the e30 seats will not sit directly in-front of the pedals unless you modify the factory seat mounts on the e30. Its slight but not lined up. This didn't bother me much. Also you could have issues with the hand pull for rear seat access hitting the door panel so its important to mount the seats as close to the transmission hump as possible. Last issue is you will need to get new carpet for the center hump. Unfortunately for me I decided on these seats after I just installed a new kit from Esty (D'oh!) . And I think carpet I ordered is out of stock and may not ever be back so not 100% the direction I am going to go. Its only seen when you look down to where the brackets where so it doesn't stick out. Sorry that I didn't have better photos or measurements but I thought it could help someone that was in a similar spot as I.
  4. Hi All, I am in the process of removing all the rust on the car as possible. Being a 41 year old car, it seems to be quite a bit. I have already replaced a few areas of rust and have the driver side rocker off now. I repaired the metal behind the rocker panel in the quarter panel area because it was rusted out. I got a little paranoid and replaced a section of the inner rocker because I noticed some pitting. I am looking at the lower A pillar and I notice a little pitting and some flakes on the inside. When is pitting too much pitting? Im using weld thru primer and rust inhibitor everywhere but I just think new metal is so much better than old metal with a little pitting. Is this just paranoia? Pete
  5. I am going to be picking up some sheet metal for various reasons. For those of you that have done some metal fab what would your choice/recommendations be? I am leaning towards 18 ga (1.224mm thick). I do have access to a metal shop in my town with a brake and various cutters. I have seen that modern cars have gone thinner but if I was to error I would think a slight bit thicker would be better for me with my skill set. Thanks
  6. Slow going but nice to see some progress this winter. Fabrication now complete and essentially ready for prep work (filler, block sand process, etc) prior to paint. Photos don't do these guys any real justice...

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