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pmg

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  1. I believe the beemer / bimmer distinction only existed as a shibboleth in the States and Canada. South Africa and India went with beemer across the board and BSA bikes were certainly raced there. That said, I think the Internet forced the distinction amongst the entire English speaking world where previously it was localized to just one region. German is mercurial with their gender choices but "der Beamer" is the only variant of bimmer/beamer/beemer to appear in the father tongue dictionaries prior to 2010. "Beh-Ehm-Veh" is so quick to say though that I think it's hard for Germans to come up with something shorter. I imagine to the guys in Munich hearing: "Bee-Em-Double-U" can be bit...throwing. While they don't have much more to say on the bike/car distinction - the language has some affectionate names for the various models: Bikes: Gummikuh - BMW bikes from 1950 - 1990 - ride like "gummy cows" - cows legs lift from the rear - so did the early bikes. Hängetittenguzzi - Derogatory for BMW - "It looks like a Moto Guzzi with droopy boobs" or a "Hangy-tits-guzzi" Duttlbär - same kind of thing but more endearing - sort of like "Breasts on a Box" I guess? Also for the old boxer configuration bikes. Cars: Beamer - specifically defined in Germany as "what Americans call BMW because it's faster in their language" Baader Meinhof Wagen - slang bacronym for BMW after the terrorist cell. Bayrischer Mist Wagen - Bavarian Manure Truck + a thousand more "BMW" acronyms...some clever...others...well... Knutschkugel - "the ball" - nickname for the Isetta Barockengel - baroque angel - classy name for the 501 - curves like an angel - the vintage Rolls Royce look. Flüsternd Bombe - Whispering Bomb - AutoBild's nickname for the 2002 - cited in the famous 1968 Car and Driver Magzine review as "Flüstern Bombe" - literally "Whisper Bomb" - infinitive present vs present participle - but I can find no use of it German or in the archives. Even if the sourcing is a bit dodgy and miss-conjugated, I'll still take it and use it with joy. Kriegsbemalung - or "War Paint" - nickname for the 2002 Turbo livery - too aggressive for German highways - BMW had to tone it down a notch for release. There are a lot of super racist German nicknames for the cars particularly the E46 3 series variants but at least one I know of for the old model 2000's with the slanty headlights preceding the 2002. Those are better left unsaid. This German article specifically cites the bimmer/beemer turf war as American in origins. Interestingly that German website for bimmer.de is owned by an American company.
  2. Thanks guys. Got this out and swapped. Ended up using this tool for $15 on Amazon, same day delivery. The length of the stud, combined with me foolishly already grinding it had me worried about sheering it if using a monkey wrench, miami vice grips (heh), or a pipe wrench pliers. I particularly liked that tool as it was cheaper than the Jegs stud removal tool and seems to follow the same idea used by the stud pullers of our roughneck forebears (skip to 2:45 for 80,000 ft/lb explanatory action): (My favorite moment is at 45 seconds. Roughneck gonna' roughneck)
  3. Dumb question, but how do you escalate when trying to remove a difficult engine stud and double nutting fails? Backstory: My water divider has a small leak where it joins the top of the engine block. The nut that tightens down on stud 15 (pictured below) stripped the upper portion of the stud. I removed the divider, ordered the replacement part (07129908160). Problem is I can't get the old stud out. The top 1/4 of the stud was stripped. I took an angle grinder and removed the top portion. I connected two nuts to 'double-nut' the stud off. This stripped the stud again! I've still got about 1/4 of the stud with good threading still on. Not wanting to strip this. I grinded two smallflats on the smooth part, applied butane torch heat, pb blaster, and attempted to wrench this off using a number 7. No luck. Failing this, what is the accepted next step? Weld a nut to the stud and then wrench it off? Try the flat trick again but with less suck? Apply wax + map gas torch to the stud?
  4. Like the poster above me, this is the only thread I found on the forum regarding VDO needle adjustment. Had a similar issue with my tach. Adjusted it and made a video below:
  5. Adding to what others have said but from Oregon to SF: Yachats is a great beach town on the Oregon coast a bit south of where the 20 meets the 101. Great coffee/hot chocolate at the Green Salmon coffee shop and the Brewing and Farmstore next door has some great microbeers. Thor's Well is very unique to see at low or high tide. You can rent some ATV's/Dirt Bikes/Dune Buggies at Coos Bay and ride the sand dunes (but I prefer the ones way further south at San Luis Obispo/Pismo Beach). Arcata/Eureka may be the best place to service your car if you run into serious trouble during the first third - the owner of Antich Automotive used to have a 2002; he welded my burst radiator and reinforced my front subframe after my engine mount sheered. If you're waiting for some car work you can grab a bagel at Los Bagels or if you want something super memorable Arcata has the best Finnish Sauna Tubs at Cafe Mokka. From there you need to cut inwards to bypass the 'Lost Coast' - Avenue of the Giants is not to be missed and some of the most memorable driving I've had. "Drive-Thru-Tree" is around there too if you want the photo. All the Endor scenes with the Ewoks were filmed in that area: https://roadtrippers.com/stories/an-ewoks-guide-to-endor-road-trip-through-northern-california - as a Star Wars nerd walking through Cheatham Grove was totally surreal. The 'sets' are exactly the same as they were 40 years ago because well...the trees are hundreds of years old. Cutting back to the coast from there is a fun twisty mess over some curvy hills. Great driving. Abalone season starts April 1st and there's great diving near Ft. Bragg. Don't die though. If you don't cut into wine country, go camp by Bodega Dunes (Beach) or Samuel P Taylor Park (if you want to set up a tent inside a redwood!) Grab a bag of oysters at Tomales Bay Oyster Company. Optionally see Stinson Beach, Muir Woods, the Pelican Inn Pub, or the Nike missile silos then make it across the Golden Gate Bridge... If you can make it to the Bay Area, there's plenty of us with parts and tools willing to lend a hand (myself included).
  6. My clutch master started leaking a few weeks ago. I replaced both the clutch slave and the clutch master cylinder (for a Getrag 245) as well as taking some time to rebuild the rest of the pedal box. When I put in the new cylinders in and got everything up and running I'm now hearing a rattle when waiting at a traffic light with the car in neutral and the clutch released. If I push the clutch pedal down, the rattle goes away. Three weeks ago with the old cylinders there was no rattle. With the new cylinders there's a rattle. I'm at a loss on how to debug this one. Is my pedal travel not set up correctly? Or might it be something more serious like the pilot bearing that possibly got damaged when removing the clutch slave?
  7. Usually the classifieds are *fantastic* but as many others here have said, be very careful with "Denver Tii" specifically. (I see you replied in his thread for pedal boxes.) At least google "Denver Tii" and decide for yourself.
  8. Trackimo looks like white label hardware with an app on it. $99 is spendy. Those cubes usually go for $8 in Shenzhen. Could be fine. For data try 'Ting' - I used one of their sim cards on my bike. Pay what you use. https://www.adafruit.com/products/2505?gclid=CJWlqYjA7tECFcVefgod8wwKQQ - 2G is on the way out (and has been for a long while) but it's fine if you're looking for GPS coordinates only. (Edit: oops, looks like they are out of Beta. A basic voice 'line' is $6 a month + $3 data. Don't know if you can just get data. Twilio lets you get a data sim for $2 a month.) You could combine that with a white label automotive tracker from AliExpress. Just confirm it's for the right cell bands. Alternatively use a dedicated Android device with bluetooth paired to your 123Ignition+ and install the Prey app + a t-mobile / google fi subscription.
  9. I'm rebuilding my pedal box and the exterior cover on the outside of the car is a bit pitted from leaking hydraulic fluid. Looking to buy a dry used/new one. Roger's TII is out of stock - would appreciate a lead on another source too. BMW: 35111102142
  10. Hey Tsingtao, Mvliotta, Just picked up a set yesterday from scoyote via pm for $25. Marking this thread as *closed* - thank you both for the follow up!
  11. Looking for a set of both left and right cover plates for the heater/defrost cover plates in this style. Would be happy with something that's between 4/10 - 8/10 quality.
  12. Toby, Mark, thank you for the info. You guys are gems. Got some new hose and sadly confirmed, yes, it's the diaphragm regulator that's busted. That Roger's TII is the best price I've seen, thanks for that. Other places were listing at $140. I've gotten a bunch of joy out of ridding this car around knowing it doesn't have any electronics in it (my day job) but now I've got big incentive to move over to the 123 Tune w/ Bluetooth bandwagon. I'll take the weekend to think on it. Thanks all.
  13. I recently refreshed my Weber 38 DGAV. When putting things back together I noticed the previous owner had hooked up the distributor to the intake manifold vacuum port and NOT the Weber 38 vacuum port. Given how many other things the previous owner hooked up backwards I'm suspect if this is correct. Can someone help me check my logic here? A ) If you have a vacuum advance distributor - you should hook it up to the carb vacuum port B ) If you have a vacuum retard distributor - you should hook it up to the intake vacuum port Or am I confused and in fact some vacuum retard distributors are 'over' compensated and should always be hooked up to the carb vacuum port regardless? Or is it so varied that the answer is "it depends"? I have a Bosch 0 231 168 024 JFUD4 - I couldn't find any information on this model whatsoever but I did find that it was superseded by the "0 231 180 008" Thanks to this thread I see the replacement model is vacuum retard and thanks to this chart I see it's 7º retard at 13.39(?) vacuum. Is it safe to assume the previous model was also vacuum retard at that angle for that vacuum? Based on that information, I should hook it up to the intake manifold vacuum port, correct? A few gotcha's: a ) I *thought* I read somewhere (in one of the Redline, Haynes, HPBooks Weber books) that the Weber 38 specifically has a 'dummy' vacuum port. It's there but it just don't do nothing. Anyone know if this is true? b ) I read you could do a 'suck test' on the dizzy to see if it rotates clockwise or counterclockwise. Presumably you do this with a hand vacuum pump and not your mouth? I gave this a shot with my mouth and saw no movement and coughed up some petrol-ish air - did I do it wrong or does this just mean I have a vacuum leak in that one tube connecting the dizzy to the intake manifold? The 'play' in the dizzy let's it rotate further clockwise. c ) I could figure out some of these questions with a vacuum measuring gauge - can you recommend a good one? tldr: Do vacuum retard dizzy's hook up to the intake manifold vacuum port instead of the carburetor vacuum port?
  14. You guys are wonderful. Percy, Toby, thank you so much for taking the time to school me on this. Your posts reflect a deep mastery of the subject. Great update here - thicker gasket came in, installed it, car is running again! This is without a doubt the most challenging thing I've undertaken on a car (dismantle and put back together half an engine). Old hat maybe for you guys but I'm super thrilled. SUPER thrilled. Interesting discoveries: When the previous owner swapped the heads, the chain slipped one tooth. This explains why the pistons where not at TDC when the mark was at the TDC notch. Because the timing chain was '1 tooth off' I was running into all these problems last year with the engine running rough and not stopping on shut off. I tried adjusting the dizzy, the float, the spark plug gaps, setting the ball on the timing light. Nothing, nada. Adjust one thing, problem comes up somewhere else. Now I understand. I clayed 4 valves. Good thing as one came loose during the operation. Gap was at 0.095" with the 1.80mm gasket - enough for me to feel comfortable with as it's above that 0.080" margin you mentioned Toby - no need to bust out the angle grinder(!). Given there was 'plenty' of clearance - Percy - I suspect the those indents were made by the original head that died many moons ago. Current troubleshooting areas: Two problems now that everything is back together. 1. The car wants to die really quickly on startup until it's warm. Even with a high idle. I kind of need to keep it at 3,000rpm(!) for a few minutes which seems excessively high. I understand the weber 34/36 has a fast idle if you punch the gas peddle before starting but I can't seem to get that to work - what's the trick? 2. The car is surging on acceleration. I look like a doofus pulling out of the driveway at 5mph and 5,000 rpm. I think this is either something wrong with my carb throttle linkage (highlighted in yellow) or that the intake manifold isn't secure well enough and is rolling on engine acceleration causing a slight tug on the throttle cable making the surge. Between the machine shops and disassembly I some how lost my coolant divider (highlighted in purple). I found another one from an E21 at the junkyard but it doesn't have the inlet on the "rear" side. Kind of leaks. Sort of sealed with permatex. I've already ordered a fancy one from Blunt that gets me three sensors plus the E12 head compatibility but it has to ship from Germany. In the mean time I plugged that intake line return with a bit of white plastic. From reading elsewhere in the forums this helps with warm up at low temperature. No idea on the surging though.


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