Son of Marty

This will take care of that "In a jiffy". Also available in black for that concours look.

The protruding bit is the chain tensioner and should have a aluminum washer under the bolt head this can be changed by unscrewing the cap and replacing the washer there's a weakish spring under it so be ready for that. The front main seal is a bigger bit of work but sure can be done over a weekend, I would call blunt and they will set you up with a timing cover gasket kit and new oil seal.

It looks like your calipers are on the wrong side, do the bleeders point up or down?

10 hours ago, 2002Scoob said:

Anyhoo. She probably needs a 127 main, as the 125 is putting her in the 13.3-7 range at WOT, but the 130 lands in the 10.9-11.5. 

IMO to correct the top end pick a jet, and then play with the air correctors until  the mixture fall in line.

I would pull and disassemble the carb completely and blow out all the passages both ways, it's possible with a brand new carb that a bit of swarf from the machining is stuck in there.

If you start with a rod a little bit larger than the hole to plug you can turn it to fit with just a drill and some sandpaper. I've also seen them blocked with freeze plugs.

To plug the holes in the head you might try threading a aluminum rod to fit the tapped holes to keep the thermo-expansion more on the same level. 

I would bleed the brakes first see if things firm up before starting to throw parts at it, that will come soon enough.

3 hours ago, esty said:

good glue traps catch spiders, bugs and mice

And the cat.

3 minutes ago, BarneyT said:

Sorry Ed, it looks like the truck is full full of suitcases and chairs to me…

At one time it would have been a play pen and a stroller , now days it's lawn chairs because us old guys can only stand for about 10 min. before our backs kill us, Ob-la-de Ob-la da life goes on bra.

Barney, it looks like the gold car has some junk in the trunk😎.

Yeah pedal parts the square piece is #19 below.

Just a guess but I think the plate with the 2 sheetmetal screws might be to block off the hole in the cowl where the left hand drive cars throttle linkage is mounted, just a guess but the hole spacing looks about right. 

Check to see if your cold start injector is shutting off and not dripping.

Now all we need is a flat pattern for a 02 and we're on our way.

Thats the wiper relay, the blinker should be just ahead of the hood latch lever.

John. a bad ground is a bad ground regardless of it's size.

I might add hi wattage driving lights in multiples should have the load wired directly off the battery +/- terms.

14 minutes ago, John76 said:

That little pig tail on the braided negative strap from the battery to the left fender is a bit dicey.

It's rated  to 60 amps more than enough to handle the hotel load on a stock 02 by at least 3x.

The way it turns off with no sputter makes me think ignition carbs generally sputter as they die.

Check the wire to the idle cut off solenoid  is it securely attached?

1 minute ago, bergie33 said:

I've usually seen the buzzer either dangling on its own or zip-tied to the column.

Yup they just tucked it in under the cover, I think it was a North American only add on and they didn't bother modifying the cars just for that and I think the Germans knew it was going to be a pain in the ass and they would be removed in short order. 

If you look closely at your last picture just above the  weld repair it looks like a small crack is just forming there are probably more you can't see, as Toby said the first step is to measure the head thickness to see how much it can be skimmed. If I were to guess I think someone along the way put cold water into a hot engine causing the cracks.

2 hours ago, Rob Zaeos said:

My other thought is the slave isn't completely bled

If it's a 5 speed is the clutch slave bleeder pointed down? And it does sound like you might have the 215mm throw out bearing (the shorter of the two) installed.